After playing with Trampas I think I am just fighting with windmills with those problems… So I starting making normal Longboard build with AT wheels using our 1:3 gear drive.
Mechanics
I will need a really big help on this build as I have zero understanding about normal trucks and etc. I will be using Landyachtz Evo 39" deck (I like its form and I see it was proven as a good base for @mmaner@Deckoz) So I will going to get TB218 trucks don’t know about the front as I saw that @Deckoz uses the different one I am interested how different width works out. Also if it is going to work with pneumatic wheels. I can modify ET of the wheel but still have no idea about this. Also all pivot cups, barrels and wedges… So that’s all regarding mechanics.
Electronics
I will reuse everything mostly from Trampa build, dual Focboxes in our dual finned case, nano-x remote, HM-10 Bluetooth module (thinking of getting metr maybe as esk8 vesc app has so many flaws regarding staying on and recording) I am still working on esc/bms but I should use them later on this build.
Enclosure
I still don’t know what I am going to do I need to fit 8 packs somewhere have no idea if it going to fit underdeck right now I will just put them on top of the deck like I always do
Parts:
39" Landyachtz Evo '18 Skate and Explore
218 Torqueboard Trucks
FatBoy TB218 Drive Train
4 x FatBoy Solid Core WheelHub with custom ET for TB218 and drivetrain
4 x 6.5" Trampa tires
2 x APS 8072S 165kv 6kW
2 x FatBoy HV ESC
CNC machined X for front trucks yet to design
180 x Panasonic PF in 18S10P configuration
So if anyone has any suggestion which cups/wedges and etc to use on trucks and etc I will be really thankful.
There’s a few things to bring up the quality, I’ll edit with suggestions I came across
DIY hanger plugs. What these do is cause the hanger to rotate in a more accurate axis around the kingpin. A good thing, more precision.
Riptide pivot cups 96a
Bushings -
Alphamail: ‘TB218’s come with 90a cones / barrels’.
Select type of bushings for style and your weight, discussed by alphamail in several posts to this thread
Pics
Dewedging -
You can direct swap the torqueboards baseplate for Caliber baseplates which gives you the option to run a 44deg rear and a 50deg front. I’d suggest buying an entire single 10" truck in one angle and just the baseplate from the other angle(e.g. 44 truck & 50 plate), that way you have not only the option to run a dewedged rear but also to run a normal length front hanger which would aid turning radius, others have tried that and ran up to the speeds you are suggesting without wobble. If you like that you have a spare 218 for the next build or a very desirable sellable item.
…a Randal baseplate is another option 35deg but it’s not as accurate a fit as the Caliber and probably of no interest with an Evo deck, Im waiting on new pivot cups by riptide for my Randal plates to try to mesh with a tipped deck
In fact there an entire thread you should consume for angles
I weight ~83kg. I do commute long distance ~13km one way fast depends on traffic but like avg max speed is like 30-40km depends how board feels if I feel stable maybe I would go faster as there roads are basically straight no cars just bicycles… I do not do quick turns, but I do a lot of slow almost instant 90 degree turns now I need to rotate my board (two way big roads crossings has the islands where you need to walk from one side to another.
I just tried @darkkevind deck similar to evo… My feet felt like straight at home it was amazing how good it felt… That makes me even more want to get this project done…
Sand it first, you wanna rough up all the be painting surface.
Buy high temp epoxy in whatever color you want then…
Tape the axles
Bend a coat hanger hold the hanger by the axles where you taped
Hang it up in a dust free and wind free location.
Spray multiple light coats.