Marble | Zenit Marble 38 | Surf Rodz RKP | Carvon Speeddrive R v4 | 12s4p | TB 12s Enclosure | Focbox x2 | 97mm ABEC 11 Flywheels | GT2B |

ESK8 Builds
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Parts List: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mCr3IZigZyqd6hAywdA-ly7xonvWtfPw7dnJ8BKHA3g/edit?usp=sharing

Almost a year ago I decided to try my hand at esk8ing and bought a Wowgo to test the waters. After many accidents, saves, fun times, and yes; expensive hospital bills, I can say that it’s one of the most rewarding hobbies I got into. Now after 800 or so miles it’s time to ditch these hubs and invest in something with a bit more guts. Now that I’ve finally started buying parts I figure it’s time to make a build log!

-Deck: Zenit Marble 38 When looking for a deck I knew I wanted one with a kicktail and it had to be stiff since it needed to stay stable and predictable at high speeds. I knew I’d be running large wheels as well and the large flared wheel wells let me do just that. It also has a sweet marbled design layered in the fiberglass to boot! I originally used this for my Wowgo since the v1 deck was so bad, and threw a Psychotiller enclosure over everything to avoid the split enclosure look. Status: Delivered

-Trucks: Taco 180’s Just some random cast trucks I pulled from a pintail I never rode to replace the stock Wowgo ones. They seem good enough and I swapped the bushings for Riptide Canon WFB 88a so they’re stable in the mid 20’s but good for carving at any speed. I will switch them out but for now I don’t see an issue. Status: Delivered:

-Motors: Carvon Speeddrive R V4 You know when I said a “bit” more guts? well… anyways, I had been saving up for a set of these but never knew when or if I would get a chance to purchase them, so when @kylem21 posted he was selling his pair I knew I had to jump on it. (thanks!) Status: Delivered

-Battery: 12s4p TorqueBoards 12s2p. I was originally looking at Psychotiller packs but the value of the included enclosure and battery meter swayed me over. Samsung 30q cells, which are a step up from the Samsung 22p’s in my old wowgo 12s2p battery. That one was giving me issues with power loss when drawing a lot of amps, full throttle from a stop for instance. Status: Ordered

-Enclosure: TB 12s Enclosure I had a sweet Psychotiller one but didn’t use washers under my nuts so they tore through the plastic. This one comes free with the battery so I figure I’ll check it out.

-VESC: Focbox x2 What’s to say? I’ll be running in FOC since I loved the slence of the hubs compared to my friends belt driven board and I’m fine not pushing my limits until I get lots of pads. I don’t know a whole lot about these so I will be reading a lot until they arrive and I guess go from there. Status: Delivered

-Controller: GT2b I’m going to print the MadMonkey case for it. Status: Delivered

-Wheels: ABEC 11 97mm Flywheels Found a set on ebay. Man are these expensive and hard to find. Status: Delivered

-Other bits

  • 6x bullet connectors
  • heatshrink, 10awg wire, xt60 connectors
  • xt60 parallel splitter M to 2F
  • Loop key circut terminated in xt60
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This is how I read build threads:

Go to thread - see wall of text - scroll down to bottom. Is the deck cool? Yes - Go back and read the thread Is the deck boring? No - Move on :smiley:

This deck is cool!

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Can’t wait to see the finished product, sounds like a beast!

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Nice build! Just a quick and important tip: start already now to find all the small connectors etc. Make a plan. Order all those small parts from China right now. It will save you a lot of time and money. You will end up having an almost finished board but can’t use it since you need connectors. A lot of small BUT IMPORTANT parts have been posted in a lot of threads. Good luck!

Here are some:

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This board is exactly what i was looking for so happy i saw this today. Deck is officially on order lol. and this build is what i think im gonna be copying. Im trying tonsource some torwue drives tho. Good luck! Ill be followin this one.

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That’s a good idea. So far I know I need 6 5.5mm bullet connectors for motors to focbox, 1 JST-PH 2MM canbus connector for dual vesc communication, and 1 XT60 parallel harness to power each vesc. I have a power lead to charge the battery but one thing I’m not sure of is an antispark switch / loopkey. How do I use it and where does it hook up to?

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Did you get your zenith in that blem deck sale they had earlier I was gonna buy one as well but they where all sold out by the time I tried sucha beautiful board!

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No I got it a while ago full price. There’s a guy on the longboarding subreddit who works for Zenit and gives 10% off discount codes so if you’re still considering it ask him, idk if it applies to blems. u/lizardstreak or something similar.

@iKNOWaFATman The deck is indeed great. One of the reasons I wanted direct drive was to avoid issues with motors getting in the way of the kicktail that I often use.

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Ya i want a tail, i used to downhill and still freeskate once in a while so i like having the cave and a tail. I opted for the 35… im stoked for this to sit in my garage while i watch your build and wait for either carvons to pop up or torque boards directs to come out.

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Do you know what your going to do about the enclosure yet?

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Right now I have the Flagship v2 Psychotiller enclosure but when I mounted it I didn’t use washers. I rode off a curb and 3/6 of the bolts tore through the holes I drilled so it’s been duct taped on ever since. The issue I have now is I drilled through the deck so I either have to design another enclosure with a mounting setup that aligns with the current holes or buy a new flagship v2. I could also design a one that is not mounted with bolts but rather uses industrial strength velcro. I’ve been experimenting with it by attaching my electrics to the board with it and it’s stronger than you’d think. I can almost lift the whole board by the battery so I Expect it will have no problems holding the enclosure if I go that route. My friend has a gigantic 3d printer I can use for it but this deck has a lot of concave so I’m not sure how well the print would come out.

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10s2p for a dual application is quite weak, epsecially without any gearing. You dont mention what cells are in your pack so dont know what kind of current you’re expecting to draw. But you can count on some voltage sag.

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So far the things you have seem good. Maybe you wanna change the focbox connector to XT90 to be able to run more power into your focbox? Remember to also get some loctite.

An antispark/loop key is used to turn your board on/off.

Okay so an antispark is just something you connect between the battery and Focbox. Pretty sure it doesn’t physically remove the connection. It has a button to turn the power on/off. I’m not 100% sure but I think it works like an E-switch on a BMS. The thing after the battery is the antispark. board

A loop key breaks the connection between the battery and vesc physically. IMG_3213

Downside of using a loop key is you will always have an open connection outside your enclosure so your board isn’t waterproof. The loop key is much cheaper than the anti spark. Depends on your budget and what you feel the safest using.

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it does, no sense in having a sparkswitch and a loopkey unless you’re very paranoid about your board failing

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This explains it very well thank you. For now I’ll make a simple loop key to save on cost.

@linsus They are Samsung 22p cells in the 10s2p.

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Max contineuos 20A in 10s2p. And a capacity of 4400mah. If you want full use of your build you’re going to need a bigger pack. Quite a bottleneck.

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I figured as much. Is there a way I can calculate what I’ll get out of it or no? Like I said this only needs to struggle for a month or two until I can afford 12s with probably Samsung 30q’s.

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You can expect around 10km and maybe 30 mins of ride time. Depends on terrain and how deep you’re discharging obv.

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That’s about 60%-70% of the range I get now so I guess it’s acceptable.

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IMG_20180704_161040 So here’s where I get to start from. Since the enclosure broke I used duct tape to hold it on temporarily. Unfortunately it left a lot of goop behind that I need to clean off which is an absolute PITA. I bough a pressurized can of solvent made for removing bumper stickers but it seems to do the job without stripping away the deck. A few things to note are the foot stop on the tail to help orient my prosthetic leg and make sure it doesn’t vibrate off, there’s also the X-Things, and while I don’t really need them they look cool.

EDIT: Whoops this picture was taken before the X-Things arrived.