No I got it a while ago full price. There’s a guy on the longboarding subreddit who works for Zenit and gives 10% off discount codes so if you’re still considering it ask him, idk if it applies to blems. u/lizardstreak or something similar.
@iKNOWaFATman The deck is indeed great. One of the reasons I wanted direct drive was to avoid issues with motors getting in the way of the kicktail that I often use.
Ya i want a tail, i used to downhill and still freeskate once in a while so i like having the cave and a tail. I opted for the 35… im stoked for this to sit in my garage while i watch your build and wait for either carvons to pop up or torque boards directs to come out.
Do you know what your going to do about the enclosure yet?
Right now I have the Flagship v2 Psychotiller enclosure but when I mounted it I didn’t use washers. I rode off a curb and 3/6 of the bolts tore through the holes I drilled so it’s been duct taped on ever since. The issue I have now is I drilled through the deck so I either have to design another enclosure with a mounting setup that aligns with the current holes or buy a new flagship v2. I could also design a one that is not mounted with bolts but rather uses industrial strength velcro. I’ve been experimenting with it by attaching my electrics to the board with it and it’s stronger than you’d think. I can almost lift the whole board by the battery so I Expect it will have no problems holding the enclosure if I go that route. My friend has a gigantic 3d printer I can use for it but this deck has a lot of concave so I’m not sure how well the print would come out.
10s2p for a dual application is quite weak, epsecially without any gearing. You dont mention what cells are in your pack so dont know what kind of current you’re expecting to draw. But you can count on some voltage sag.
So far the things you have seem good. Maybe you wanna change the focbox connector to XT90 to be able to run more power into your focbox? Remember to also get some loctite.
An antispark/loop key is used to turn your board on/off.
Okay so an antispark is just something you connect between the battery and Focbox. Pretty sure it doesn’t physically remove the connection. It has a button to turn the power on/off. I’m not 100% sure but I think it works like an E-switch on a BMS.
The thing after the battery is the antispark.
A loop key breaks the connection between the battery and vesc physically.
Downside of using a loop key is you will always have an open connection outside your enclosure so your board isn’t waterproof. The loop key is much cheaper than the anti spark. Depends on your budget and what you feel the safest using.
it does, no sense in having a sparkswitch and a loopkey unless you’re very paranoid about your board failing
This explains it very well thank you. For now I’ll make a simple loop key to save on cost.
@linsus They are Samsung 22p cells in the 10s2p.
Max contineuos 20A in 10s2p. And a capacity of 4400mah. If you want full use of your build you’re going to need a bigger pack. Quite a bottleneck.
I figured as much. Is there a way I can calculate what I’ll get out of it or no? Like I said this only needs to struggle for a month or two until I can afford 12s with probably Samsung 30q’s.
You can expect around 10km and maybe 30 mins of ride time. Depends on terrain and how deep you’re discharging obv.
That’s about 60%-70% of the range I get now so I guess it’s acceptable.
So here’s where I get to start from. Since the enclosure broke I used duct tape to hold it on temporarily. Unfortunately it left a lot of goop behind that I need to clean off which is an absolute PITA. I bough a pressurized can of solvent made for removing bumper stickers but it seems to do the job without stripping away the deck. A few things to note are the foot stop on the tail to help orient my prosthetic leg and make sure it doesn’t vibrate off, there’s also the X-Things, and while I don’t really need them they look cool.
EDIT: Whoops this picture was taken before the X-Things arrived.
The condition of that hub sleeve is worrying
Oh it’s chunked much more than that now. That hubs center of mass is so off now that it vibrates fairly hard with no weight on the board.
Here’s a quick diagram showing how the battery will be connected to the focboxes. An issue I found is that the XT60 parallel connector doesn’t seem to have the right configuration of M/F sockets as shown in the picture and I can’t find any others online to match what I need. Am I being an idiot or is this the wrong thing?
Carvons are here, just as sexy in person as I thought it would be.
Well it’s the end of the day and I got an email saying my focboxes have been shipped and will arrive soon. (the 10th hopefully?) I just bought everything else I needed including the GT2b, 97mm flywheels, random connectors, heatshrink, and wires, as well as bullet connectors. That should be everything I’m super exited to put this all together! I hope everything will arrive before the weekend but we will see.
Wheels are here.
Update time! Sadly my phone overheated in this California weather and wouldn’t turn on for two days so I haven’t been able to get glamour shots, but it works! Last night me and a couple friends were working on finishing everything up and troubleshooting why one motor kept cogging and such. We went on for a good four hours reassembling everything only to realize in our sleep deprived state that we didn’t do detection after we were swapping phase wires. Once both motors spun the right direction though the cheer of success throughout the room was well earned. Unfortunately I lost my charging port somewhere in the process so I only have about half a battery charge 
I rode it a bit once it was finished but not for long. I can’t wait to get off work and give it a go. Tomorrow I’ll clean up the deck (it’s so dirty) and post the final update. From there it’s just a matter of saving for a 12s pack and doo-dads such as a battery meter and new enclosure.