Polish, blue, clear coat, then instantly scratch it. Bluing it is at least easy. I tried to polish an aluminum bike frame once and that was like 12 hours of not much. I think u should gold plate them. Could be a rare crinkled gold crushed look years later. Or it chips off. Even if it rusts on the outside badly wouldn’t matter and inside maybe …that could maybe happen w them sealed even. Get behind the glue. I highly doubt it. U and I will be the only blued motors I’ve seen. But be nice to see a blued steel accessory for an out runner! Press it or glue on another mm of mildest steel
The rotor is blued unpolished steel and the hub “blued” nickel plating
Really nice. I like the color. Yeh I bought a engine oil. I will try to do it. Polished them a bit already. Would like to leave them raw but don’t want to make an external aluminium sleeve. Maybe I should make one 3D printed as I use for the MAD Fury. It’s still there and I can print a new one when they are beated too much.
Finished the step down and axle. No only cut to lenght and thread.
I think they’ll look good beaten up as is. Ready to go. I just blued by cleaning w acetone and then flame and air cooling no oil. The oil I think will maybe be more permanent. Same as they do for woks cooking. I wouldn’t use oil if ur going to then glue magnets. I’ve got a rough surface in there and also sand the polish off the magnets
No I ended up using the original motor can. I modified to get only the magnet and the retainer ring and I used steel sleeve to close and protect them so the steel sleeve alone will be blued. Yes oil should make the dark more permanent but I will see it. I have a torch so not that easy to get an uniform coat. They will look MAD for sure then only the STORM is left
yeh next week or in 10 days should get the BullyDeck is finished finally. Then motor should be ready. Only things left is battery. I will go with NESE module so shouldn’t take too long. I am so curious so curious. Probably my battery 12s4p will be the limiting factor but then I do not like board too heavy…can go 13s4p at most.
Well the all the bolts are not in place yet. Bearings has to be fixed with loctite too. I will also need the wheels to keep the motor can in place andottle compress the whole motor. Probably won’t be 100% perfect anyway since everything was made manually and although I spent a lot of time on it I won’t be able to have the same low tollerance everywhere as production parts. So far the motors spin really well, they are 14 poles but they turn really smooth.
In the video are BLDC sensorless. I will try FOC, I hope e my old maytech esc won’t immidiately die on it
I will blue the motor can alone. Magnets are attach to an internal motor can. I am going to use heat to blue it.
Blueing stuffs is really fun. Seeing the steel changing colour it’s really nice. I thought to late to stopped a bit earlier to maintain the dark blue colour and went to over 380^C to the last colour tone.
Before and after. I think I am not going to paint it. I like the bullet finish
Now I struggled 2 hours with no success in making a M10 thread on the steel axle. Too hard. I will have to learn how to thread on lathe. It’s the last step… I want to finish!
Thanks.
No, I think it’s mostly because the motor can needs the wheel to compress the whole motor together. So now the motor can shakes a bit. Anyhow It won’t be with the same tollerance everywhere. My tool are entry level and my needs too high grade. Now I am dreaming for a CNC upgrade but not for the moment
If I have that noise it comes from a loose tolerance somewhere. He probably already knows but with a slide fitting, which is easier and less expensive, you can get retaining compounds to fill the gap. Epoxy for bearings. Worth doing and there’s different ones for high temp or bigger gaps
I will blue the motor can alone. Magnets are attach to an internal motor can. I am going to use heat to blue it.
