MAD Fury. MAD hubs Direct Drive conversion

I guess that sirection of the current matters right? So a multimeter would only tell you which cable is which but it won’t tell you if it’s an end or start… Or am I missing something?

Edit: yeah, what @hummie says

it’s correct you do not know the start and the end.

Another more crazy option with reterminating would be taking a motor w multistrand which are in parallel and making them series. For super low kv motor.

I ma interested in super low Kv but I ma not following the methods. FOr the fact thatt you do not know whihc is the start and the end, does it matter? I nthis video it seems like you only need one of each colour no difference if start or end https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/mad-fury-mad-hubs-conversion-to-direct-drive/83423/127 (@BruSkater)

i don’t see the video but the direction the current goes determines the polarity of the tooth.

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Here the video https://youtu.be/b7DkOYdarkU

I think @pat.speed also did it. How did you check the polarity?

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I think that in the video, by choosing the groups that are 120° apart he is choosing either all start or all ends.

Yea at minute 8 he makes some choice based on location. Surely not universal and works for that winding or maybe just that motor wound on that machine.

The method for super low kv redo is to take those multistrand motors, like in the video, with like 5 small strands in parallel in that video, and put those strands in series. No longer (5) 10 foot wire and then (1)50 foot wire.

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That’s is an interesting approach. It will allow high rpm motor to get to reasonable Kv if someone wants to convert them into hubs.

Yeh now I saw again the video and I noticed how he chose the wires. Although there are several videos online and they all seem to proceed in the same way.

How many amps could 1 wire take?

depends how long and how fast can rid of heat. and what temp the enamel is rated for.

the sk3 and most others are probably wound similarly maybe with the same machines even. I don’t know what winding they do but you could dissect it and bet its a DLRK. but if you were to do it yourself you could end up with a different configuration of the wires and not be able to go by this guy’s choosing method of the starts and ends.

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I used that video you linked, I happened to be using an sk3 though so it should be correct

However it is all possible just by looking at the motor to find the starts and ends. I had already found out the starts and ends of most of the phases before the video which just confirmed my assumptions. It is quite common sense as it’s clear the machine would have need to start its winding in the middle and work outwards. As it isn’t possible to wind from the outside in. This meant I go find 4 of the phases starts and ends, I didn’t however try to find the last as I came across this video

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True thst it’s indeed a good way to discriminate it. @BruSkater you can do like that.

Yeah but then I guess I will have to take the stator out of the can.

That easy. The difficult part is to remove the rear metal part with the bearing. I will send you a picture of the motor disassemble until it is really feasible tomorrow. I have motors that I used for design the DD unmounted

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20190302_032113

They don’t have the same 360° distribution as the video, but maybe the order is the same?

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Great man! Then you have to tell us how you removed the rear bearing and metal part. Anyhow as @pat.speed said. The start will be the inner wires (close to the center of the stator) while the end the outer wires. That because the winding machine starts from the center to wind the motor.

Plus you should have labeled the pair one. When you separate them from the single phase wire. Then between the 2 the inner is the start and the outer is the end

I just used force, it was easy… Maybe I’m just to strong lol… But I think that putting it back is going to be tougher. The thing is that only 1 group of wires look to be on the outer part (like in the video)… I’ll take a closer look when I am back home.

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I think should be possible to see a pattern to discriminate the stsrt to the end. But you you need to know which wires were paired together before you split them

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I identified the pairs and there is a pattern there, so I will just go for it… Now two quetions

  1. The ones I am soldering together, should I cut them and make a nob like in the video or would it be the same to just solder them like they are? (that’s easier I guess) 2.should I cover the wires with just heatshrink or is there another kind of silicone cover that I should be using? Heatshrink is kinda stiff.