FOCBOX UNITY $299 | R-SPEC DRIVE KIT $588

Lysk8 | Voodoo XL | Caliber | 83mm Flywheels | Alien 6355 190kv 2200W | Single Drive | 10SP3 Li-ion | VESC


#1

Ok guys, been reading lots here and this forum has been a very good and my main resource of information.

So this whole thread is basically to shout out a big THANKS to all of you!

This is my first build:

Board: Voodoo XL 39” (from www.longboardshop.eu)
Trucks: Caliber 184mm (raw) + ¼” riser (from www.blue-tomato.com)
Wheels: ABEC 11 Flywheels 83mm 75A (from www.evolveskateboards.com)
Bearings: Super Reds (from www.blue-tomato.com)

Motor mount from www.esk8.de
VESC from www.esk8.de
Drive Kit 15/36 15mm (belts from www.hug-technik.com / printed 36T 15mm thick wheel pully from thingiverse via www.3dhubs.com / ordered motor pulley on ebay US auction was shipped from china to EU)
Motor Alien 6355 190KV 2200W (from http://alienpowersystem.com/)
Transmitter: Quanum 2.4Ghz (from www.hobbyking.com) as well ordered a mini remote from aliexpress

Battery pack 10S3P Li-ion
LG HE4 Cells + 4A Charger and some bits and pieces (from www.b-volt.com other good source in EU is http://eu.nkon.nl/ or www.akkuteile.de)
Capacity Tester from Aliexpress
60A BMS (from www.batterysupports.com)

All stuff is ordered and lots of it arrived meanwhile, been pushing the board around for the last two weeks already and I’m loving it.

Did spend last Sunday building the enclosure, it might be a bit more heavy than the ABS or carbon fiber ones but I kinda like the style (might be, that I was a bit frustrated that all the shipping takes so long and needed something to do).

Next big action is going to be the battery pack and from there we just keep going with the flow I guess.

Anyway, I think that’s it for the moment, don’t like to bother you with too much blabla. I’ll try to keep posting more pictures.

Feel free to comment, ask questions and/or throw in your creative ideas.

Happy building!


#2

Awesome build @shred! Thanks for sharing, looking forward to see the final version. Maybe I am blind but I couldn’t find what controller you were going to use? Where did you get your Li-Ion pack or did you build it yourself?


#3

VESC comes from esk8.de.

Going to build the battery pack myself. I have most of the parts here already just some little bits an pieces missing and then I need to find some time to actually solder it all together. Will keep you guys posted :wink:


#4

I think @karma meant the remote/transmitter.


#5

always forget about this one :wink: got the Quanum 2.4Ghz from Hobbyking, had a look for the gt2b just after I had placed my order, hope that one will work for now and plan to look into this at some later point again.


Battery Building - what nickel strips do you use?
#6

Update: been getting into soldering the battery packs, bit of a struggle, even though I have a 100W solder iron. To solder two welding rods at the same time is still quite a challenge. Don’t ask why this crazy guy is trying to solder two 2x2mm copper welding rods all over the place. As far as I know 2x2 = 4mm/2 which is ok for about 40A, since the battery pack is supposed to be able to deliver 60A continuous I thought I’ll add two, even though I know that I’ll never actually have 60A continuous anyway. The nickel strips I have, look and feel like a joke though, especially compared to these welding rods.

Besides I kinda shorted some cells, just for a split second while not taking care, they didn’t get warm or anything so they might most likely be ok, still ordered some more cells which I am waiting on now. Tempted to use them still though (getting sick of waiting for parts) :wink:


#7

Update: drive train and most other parts meanwhile arrived, looking nice I think :slight_smile: even though the esk8.de motor mount is quite thick, hope that works out well with the 15mm motor pulley since the motor shaft is a bit short now (around 5mm short)


#8

Where did you get your copper rods from? How much did they cost?

I have been trying to find some but i cant find much. I have used nickel in the past but i want to beef it up a bit.


#9

I got these ones from a local warehouse here in france:

It says made out of copper (L-Cu P6), got 25 pieces (33cm each) for 15 Euros.


#10

Update: kind of finished the battery pack, BMS is still missing and it’s all not wired yet. It’s a bit scary to work with all these electronics in a aluminium box, but I think I found some ways to isolate everything well enough, lets keep fingers crossed I don’t get any (more) shorts, more pictures soon.


#11


#12

Update: sorry didn’t find the time to post, but actually got quite some work done, here is some esk8 builder porn:

First test runs are done, looking mainly good so far. Even though I had to fix the motor mount from esk8.de today, I pulled the insert out so had to glue (loctite 648) it back in today, lets keep fingers crossed that this holds up now.

Will keep you guys updated, need to develop some trust now I guess. Like, easily you get to 25km/h and there would be still lots of throttle to pull, but I really should take it slow to see how everything holds up…

Besides, might need to look into breaking again, it doesn’t really sound nice when I pull the breaks too hard.


#13

I had the exact same problem. Going to send it back as their new variants will have tapped holes in the aluminium.

Do the bolts stay on with you? Even with 243 loctite they shake loose on me.


#14

I glued the insert today with loctite 648 (been in contact with Attila), going to give it a try tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. Not so sure with the bolts, they did hold up a 6k test run on rough surface but felt loose as I took the mount off.

Hope it holds up, would be bit of a pain otherwise, I just finished the build and would love to ride a bit :wink: Thanks for letting me know that you send yours back and that there is a improved version available.


#15

Yeah regluing them seems to solve the problemfor some. But keeping the bolts tight is indeed a problem. If you felt that they were a bit loose when dissassembling the mount, then you might have the same problem. Next try i throwing in some 648 on the bolts themselves :stuck_out_tongue:


#16

The idea with the inserts was to make them stronger and replaceable if the threads break. Unfortunately those two different metal types makes glueing a real challenge and our objectives weren’t met.

We changed the design now (using even M5 screws) and offer everybody a replacement on warranty.


#17

Yep, I was initially glad when I saw the inserts (a nice attention to detail), because stripping a thread on the new versions is indeed costly. But sadly they don’t hold up as well. I’ve contacted David and they immediately said that I can replace mine for the newer version. Absolutely great customer service, they respond really quickly and are very nice guys :D.


#18

I only just now realised you ARE David.


#19

Yes, definitely. :slight_smile:

We have pressed those threads into the aluminium, so they should be stronger than a normal cut thread. There are limits of course to take care of, every thread can be destroyed. :wink:


#20

yep, I like the idea with the inserts too! If the thread is just cut right into the aluminium you will need to take quite some care as well.

I really hope everything holds up now, I as well kinda like the idea with the 648 for the bolts, not sure if it is a good idea though, is it? @3sly you did give it a try already?