Looking for some help on my build

Hey how’s it going I’m new to this forum and I’m looking to build my own electric longboard. There’s a few parts of the build that I need a little help on and thought this would be a good place to get it. So for starters I will list what I have already:

  1. Custom 40" deck
  2. Caliber trucks
  3. 83mm Blank flywheels Things that I’m going to purchase:
  4. Tacon Bigfoot 245kv motor
  5. VESC
  6. Diyelectricskateboards single bolt on mount with Drive wheel kit 16t/36t Now here’s where I need some help, ideally I would like to get a top speed around 20mph and a ride time around 15-20 miles. I weigh 180lbs and it’s mostly flat where I would be riding. I’m not sure what battery configuration would be best for this and if I would have to wire them in series or parallel. Also I would like to use a wii nunchuck and wiiciever but I’m having a hard time finding them for sale so maybe someone can lead me in the right direction.

These seem to be the best deal going right now: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_64438__Multistar_High_Capacity_4S_10000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_US_Warehouse.html 2 of those in series should do it, but you could also just get a SPACE cell.

Hey man, I am a newcomer as well. I would definitely advise you to look around the other builds and just skim all the info in those threads. I have learned the most there. Also, get in contact with the vendors, old-timers, and big shots around here. @onloop @torqueboards @chaka etc… They all have a huge wealth of information and sell great products. torqueboards especially has been a huge help for me. You can see the things we have went over in my thread as well if you’d like.

http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/the-minnesota-monster-dual-hub-motor-build-carvon-duals-dexters-12s-pack-vesc-x2-diy-mini-controller-psychotiller-enclosure-deck-undecided-still/1774/30

I recommend at least looking into hub motors. There is a bit of back and forth here, and I can’t say what’s better hands-down if there even is a clear winner because my build is incomplete and I just don’t have the experience working with both…It seems very few even here do. Anyways, they seem to be exactly what I was looking for and may entice you as well. Low profile, light, high torque, easy to hookup/install, they take up less space, and especially the smooth roll/coast with little to no drag when the motor isn’t engaged, that was huge in my decision. I decided to go with Carvon’s hub motor and truck setup.

Also, as mentioned above, an all in one battery solution is probably the way to go. Look at it this way. You save some money on Lipo’s but then you will need to wire in a bunch of other stuff ( power toggle, BMS, fuses etc…) and pay for that as well. The minimal increase in pricing the two out far outweighs the extra work, wiring, and space taken up on the build in my opinion. I just got @torqueboards 12s3p pack off diyelectricskateboards.com and I have a feeling I am going to be super pleased with the performance. S.P.A.C.E Cell also looks like a nice option, but didn’t have the 12s option that I wanted. As far as mattdig’s Lipo recomendation I would look into the Nano-tech line from Turnigy. Again, I am not that experienced, but they looked to be high quality, good price, and had rave reviews…plus everyone in RC and here seems to use Turnigy. Whereas I have heard a lot of shitting on the Multistar line for being cheap and having consistently poor performance and dead cells.

On the controller, look into either the Badwolf v2 enclosure for a GT2B mod, or just buy the mini controller from Dexter @ diyelectricskateboards.com if you want something simple that just works well for a good price (~$50). If you need cruise control fanciness there are options from Enertion, Carvon, and others that all appear to be about the same deal, and about $100.

Get a flat deck with little to no flex, usually downhill decks are best for this. If you go with belt driven motors don’t get a drop through expecting to use it that way…It seems most have to top mount for clearance.

Hopefully some nugget of information here helps you out. I haven’t gotten a ton of traction on my thread yet, but it seems like once you get going, posting pictures (and spending $$$) people start to take notice. Most everyone here has been super helpful to me whenever I asked for it so just keep surfing through and posting. I am figuring it out right with you so if you have any questions I’ll do my best to help or call on someone who can. Good luck man, and welcome!

My build with the same pulleys, wheels, and motor tops out at 27mph on a freshly charged 6s lipo, but I weigh around 150lb. I got my 6s multistar 5200mah pack for around $30 and I don’t use a bms or fuses with it. It gets me about 5-6 miles. I balance charge it with a Turnigy Accucell, and my main power switch is a loop key (cheap and simple to make).

15-20 miles on a single. You can go with more batteries and/or smaller batteries and carry spare sets in a backpack. Depends on your preference.

Since your going VESC and if you don’t mind the added costs. I’d go (2) 5S or (2) 6S in series for 10S or 12S. A single 6S 5ah only gets you about 6-7 miles in range.

Multistar are decent if you don’t want the added performance. They do run pretty slow compared to a regular 20C or even 30C/40C pack. If you can get a 20C/30C pack for the same price go with the higher C rating. You won’t get the same performance with the Multistars.

We should have our new stock of 6355 230KV motors with sensor wires. If you wanted to test out VESC w/ Sensor Port. I have yet to test it yet however.

If you get the VESC, you won’t need the wiiceiver. You can wire in the Nyko Kama to the ESC directly. However, the Nyko Kama itself seems to be have a very unreliable connection. IMO unless you want to deal with the issues I’d hold off until there’s a more solid connection for the Nyko Kama.

The 2.4ghz Mini Remote which I have is practically the same size just without the cruise control option. You also have the $100 remote from enertion or carvon if you want the cruise control option.

If you plan on being in this hobby for a while… I highly suggest a nice charger iCharger 208B + HK 350W Power Supply. LiPo’s work great too since they are easy to replace when needed and they have great cheap sales on HK for Lipos.

Would 2 of these be better?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16501__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_45C.html

50mm was too too thick in my opinion, but that’s mostly aesthetic preference with a bit of function ( in the case of smashing it into stuff). If you’re going to go the Lipo route these are the best dimension/price/power output ratio/reliability combo from my research. A couple 6s, or four 3s packs for a thinner option, but harder to manage/charge apparently. I know they are more expensive, but I’d rather have the power and security of these cells. it’s one of the most important parts of the build so don’t go too cheap.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14616__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_6S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

or

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11956__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

I’ve used the 50mm 6S Flightmax packs. It’s a bit big but I never run them into anything but that particular board isn’t a board that’s low and it only sits on a 3mm riser. Make sure you do use an enclosure though that way you don’t hit the pack on accident not that it will really happen.

Wouldn’t a 10000 mah 10c multistar battery (10 x 10 = 100 amps cont.) have similar performance to say a 5000 mah 20c battery (5 x 20 = 100 amps cont.) since they’d both be able to pull 100 amps continuously or am I completely wrong? And eboards aren’t usually pulling more than 50 amps anyway, right?

Yeah, if your running 10ah but those are huge packs lol. Sometimes the exact same 6S 5ah turnigy flightmax is a few dollars more then the Multistar’s on sale.

Ben Vedder had a video of him riding and displaying the amps. Forget where it’s at.

I’ve gotten about 80A and on average 20-40amps/cont sometimes a lot less. Helps to have that power when you need it though.

Another guy like myself who lives dangerously. I’m using 6s with no fuse or bms. But it’s been like that for six months. I just use a lithiun smart charger I got through eBay.