Yes, all my battery cases are for 10S4P.
You need to install two speed controllers ESCs to run dual
The universal enclosure is $80 plus $20 for shipping and 5% paypal fee
Ok. Well the measurements are pretty much perfect. I’m in. How do we do this?
Please send the money via paypal to [email protected], I’ll ship tomorrow night after work.
Thanks for your support
Just sent. 105 USD. Thank you. Look forward to using this enclosure!
Thank you sir, shipping tomorrow!
I’ve just received Vanguard enclosures from Eboosted. They look sleek and sexy. Nice design!
Also got 40 Samsung 30Q cells from
Now I am just waiting for an Arduino spot welder to start working on a new 10S4P battery pack. This is definitely going to be a huge upgrade from my current setup with LiPo batteries.
I might even try to make a plane friendly battery designed by Eboosted that can be taken apart into 5 parts.
A quick question: Has anyone actually travelled by plane with such a battery without any issues?
Another question: What are you using for isolation around the positive end of cells when spot welding a battery pack? I’ve seen on youtube that some people attach round things (not sure how they are called) at the positive ends of cells, while other people spot weld battery packs without them. Sorry for asking this newbie question, that was probably answered many times elsewhere. This is going to be my first project with spot welding a battery.
Please please make a build thread of your battery or at least include it in your board built log. I am interested to see how this battery will turn out since I am thinking of making a super similar one.
Here are the insulator rings
3 Likes
Please do! i would love to see a battery design that I can use on my board right now as well as use on a vanguard if I switch decks in the future and your designs seem to work perfectly!
I’ve just received an Arduino spot welder. I going to start playing with it.
It looks from the pictures that in the battery for Vanguard designed by Eboosted the battery connectors are in the front of the enclosure. Since I plan to use FOC mode, I’d like to minimize the length of the cables from the battery to VESC as much as I can. So I am thinking to change the design a bit by placing the battery connectors in the back part of the enclosure (closest to VESC’s). I think that with careful planning there should be just enough space in that part to put an anti-spark switch and an LED battery indicator. I am going to put a BMS and a charging port in the front part of the enclosure. I am going to use the BMS for charging only, so placing it in the front part should not affect the length of the battery cable. Has anybody made a battery like this?
I have a few other beginner battery builder questions:
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After spot welding, do you isolate cell connectors with silicone or something else?
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What are you using for isolation between the left and the right part of the battery?
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What heat shrink wrap do you use for this battery?
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What gauge wire is good for balance wires? I am thinking about using 20 AWG.
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What is the correct scheme for connecting the components where BMS is used only for charging? (I have a wiring diagram in my mind, but I want to double check it before I start soldering.)
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What connectors are you using for the battery? In my first build I used XT60 and 5mm bullet connectors, which used quite a lot of space in the enclosure. So now I am thinking to use more compact 4mm bullet connectors. But I am not sure that they are enough to handle the current of a 10S4P battery.
That’s great, thanks for the update.
The enclosure is pretty flexible and hard at the same time, you will find out when you mount the bolts to hold it.
@Smorto here are the steps to make the vanguard battery pack:
Step 1 Hot glue the cells
Step 2 Spotweld them with nickel strips, solder the balance leads and heat wrap the battery
Sorry I forgot to take middle step pictures 
2 Likes
Eboosted, thanks a lot for the pictures! I hope to make something like this.
I am trying to decide about the size of nickel strip (thinking to use either 8mm x 0.15mm or 10mm x 0.15mm).
Are you using 3 (or 4?) nickel strips stop welded on top of each other for series connections?
I am also considering reinforcing series connections with flat copper cable, but I am not sure that such battery with a few mm of extra width would fit into the enclosure.
How do you keep the 2 halves of the battery from touching each other and shorting out?
I use plastic sheet from a plastic office folder, it’s kinda hard and flexible, I hold it with hot glue, it won’t move after you wrap the pack with heat wrap.
I only used 1 nickel strip on all connections, not sure if that’ll be enough but it has worked perfectly fit almost 6 months on my old vanguard battery
Thanks. It is good to know that just one nickel strip works fine.
But I am confused about this. From what I read in other threads on this forum (for example, here http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/battery-building-what-nickel-strips-do-you-use/6202), one 8mm x 0.15mm nickel strip can carry about 8 amps current. For series connections (assuming that you are connecting both the top and bottom layer of the battery by a strip) we get 16A. But (if I understand correctly) an esk8 battery should be able to handle at least 30A (probably better 60A in peaks).
Another question: How do you connect the left and right parts of the battery? Do you spot weld them by a nickel strip and then fold it in half? Do you reinforce this connection (by hot glue or something else)? Since it is folded, I feel that there is a higher chance that this connection might break.
After watching this scary video of an esk8 on fire:
I feel that I should be extra careful when building my first battery. I’d like to incorporate some safety features in my setup. So, in addition to an antispark switch, I’d like put XT90S loop key on one of the cables running from the battery to VESC. This may not look as sleek as a setup where all cables are hidden under the grip tape. But I am willing to sacrifice looks for safety.
I am also thinking about a fuse. Does anybody use a fuse in a Vanguard built?
I ended up doubling up on the strips. So spot weld the first strip down and then spot weld another strip right over the top of it. That solved my Insufficient thickness problem.
Also, if you are covering any significant length, like more than an inch, use wire rather than strips.
4 Likes
OMG! It’s beautiful! Glad you liked it!