Thanks! Got another question! IF and only IF the switch should fry, would it behave the same as the original Vedder switch, where it’s always on, regardless of the switch position?
Yes it would.
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Hi Golden, Great design (and website) ! Can you explain the use of the small additional transistor above the FETs ? Is it your protection device ? How does it work ?
Hi @akira
thanks! Really appreciate it 
Yes, it’s a mosfet instead of a diode, the 1Nxxxx diodes are not nearly big enough/sufficient.
Tnx for the fast shipping Hey @goldenHusky how about extending the 10% coupon for the 3FET version since that one wasn’t available from the start when it was active? Pretty please? 
I endorse @goldenHusky 100% as my main antispark switch supplier. I have NEVER had a DOA and he is very responsive. Ive ordered several from this dude and he is always great
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@goldenHusky Finally ! But wait, didn’t you make a compact version of the 3-FETs before ? Looks like the PCB of the 6FET version. Any way keep the good job, I may take 2x ASAP.
@barajabali thanks dude!
@SilentException Valid point
10% off the DirectFET 3-way switch, use the code PRETTYPLEASE
Useable till Wednesday September 20th 2017
Btw, nobody ordered this one yet so I’m safe from drama haha 
@Vanarian Yes I made a beta version before, but it hasn’t the additional protective mosfet onboard, still works great tho. If you want this beta version just msg me.
Btw I’m moving to a new city within the upcoming days, every order till now will be shipped on monday (post office closed on WE), production and shipping will start again on Wednesday, September 20th.
Thanks!
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Alright, let me be the first Thanks!
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These look great!! I’m not quite sure which switch I should get though. Are the directFET versions more reliable?
@goldenHusky Can you tell me how yours directfet three way switch compares to IRFB3207 ? I recently had a switch with 4x IRFB3207 on pcb that faild. My setup is 10s4p with 60amp bms.
@Veovis All of the switches I offer are equally reliable.
@NAF They aren’t as good as the directfets (higher rdson and d2pak housing etc.) The mosfets itselves don’t usually cause the fail of the whole switch, it’s rather the non existing or insufficient onboard protection.
Best Fabio
So the only difference is number of mosfets as in 30, 60, and 90 amp capacity?
(I don’t know much about these switches)
Yes, only the number and type of mosfets are different, the other components are the same at all models.
Finished moving to my new city, all orders I got meanwhile were shipped out today morning. Normal order processing from now on again.
I am definitely interested… I guess this would be the cheaper/more resilient alternative to torqueboards $60 push on/off.
One question dude, I realize those push on/off button are only like $2 on ebay, but can’t you just make it an option to get that with each antispark unit on your site?
Otherwise I got to wait for some other part from China/HK to get here in some time frame that’s like a month away. That is the worst part of this hobby… endlessly waiting for packages.
EDIT: Just placed my order, does it come with the 5-pin LED cable? Please link to a connector that works to connect to a latching LED on/off. I assume it’s a generic cable but I prefer you link me one. Thanks.
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And XT60 / XT90’s 
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@gogomrrobot I’m not a fan of cheap china led switches but hey… customer is king It comes with the 5 pin led cable, (also mentioned in the description of the product btw). Your order has been shipped today morning and you should have received the trackingcode (paypal email)
@Vieo Yea I have actually 5 pairs of each next to me
The reason I hesitate a bit with offering a complete plug and play switch is that I want it to be a kit/module, otherwise very far-reaching regulations apply that I want to avoid.
Best Fabio
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Picked up the package today, sweet!
One thing I forgot to ask before ordering is about the wires but yes, they are silicone, though and flexible. You should put that in the product description @goldenHusky.
Oh, and one tip about the pre-soldered wires, leave the other end insulated OR pre-tin the wire. Tinning the wire nicely is much easier and cleaner to do when the strands are still inside, insulated and pressed by the silicone
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