does anybody know the typical price of the newest landwheel version… or how i might get one for under $500 from the factory? or for some kind of reasonable price?
look it up on Alibaba- they typically sell for about 350-360 USD for just the drive unit, but shipping can be expensive (was quoted at 113 USD for me)
The alibaba price is for a minimum of 5 units. Also, those Alibaba adds are from manufacturer’s reps. Hold off for 48 hours and I’ll see if I can set something up for you. The beta testers are about to order a bunch of L3-x and parts for themselves. I’ll look into inviting you in to the ordering process. I always like to point out that niether I nor any of the beta testers profit from Landwheel sales. We just have good contacts at the manufacturer and want to see them succeed.
i thought there was a new one and the L3-X was over? or are they just continually making new revisions of L3-X
also i want to ask the manufacturer to make a mold for a 300mm truck… and a 170mm truck… and everything else (electronics/motor/plastic compartment etc) would be the same…
i would potentially be ordering a large amount of them
I might be interested in this! Gonna wait until I’ve got my new drive before I make my mind tho 
So just took a 4WD ride. 230 pound rider including helmet & Gear. Zero degrees. 5.59 kilometers consumed 1/4 battery.
Note the up hill acceleration. I was no where near top speed for any of this. The roads have too many pot holes and my knees are still recovering from a christmas time immune system attack on my joints know as PMR.
Anyway, you can see me hit 35 KPH on a flat. Then later, accellerate up hill from 23 kph to about 32 KPH before slowing down for an intersection. Brakes are spectacular check out the full tilt stop at time index 8:20 and again at 12:00.
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4WD L3-x Landwheel Ride Video
Hello ,
both batteries no longer charge as you can see. The temperature is 20 degrees celcus. The button no longer works and no longer lights up in blue.
nothing else works overnight.
I am really worried
Send me a PM with your original invoice and I’ll try to help you get back on the road. I don’t work for Landwheel as you may gather from prior posts. I do collaborate with the volunteer beta testers and we do get special prices for replacement parts. You’d be ordering from Landwheel, not from me or the beta testers. We’d pass on your details.
The majority of my batteries have lasted for over 2 years. Only 1 out of six of my batteries failed and it was a used prototype battery that came to me with 200 km already on it. Based on my experience with that battery, I can tell you that a landwheel battery that drops to 36 volts is very difficult to resurect. Even if you do resurect it, the capacity would be mininmal and it will fail again.
Opinions on battery maintenance vary. Personally, I never leave my batteries in the Landwheel dirves overnight. When I store the batteries for months, I leave them in the charger (green light).
Others say not to do that for fear of fire.
However, have a number of V2 batteries that I’ve been storing for several years in the charging bases.
EDITS: I check them periodically and they all stay NEAR peak voltage. Periodically, I remove and re-insert them and they’ll take a fresh charge. THEN THEY CHARGE UP TO PEAK VOLTAGE
I left my V4 and L3-x batteries for 3 months in the chargers over winter, all with good results.
I’ve done the same with my boosted boards and One Wheels.
Leaving any lithium battery out of the charger for more than a month or two risks letting the voltage drop to a level that will permanently damage at least one cell in the battery.
Are those V4 batteries or L3-x batteries. What drive do you have, V4? V4 upgraded to L3-x? or L3-x?
Well, i think it is fact that a battery degrade even quicker when hold at Peak voltage… I only Charge my batteries to 4.1 and store them at 3.8-3.7. Thats common practice
EDITS: I check them periodically and they all stay NEAR peak voltage. Periodically, I remove and re-insert them and they’ll take a fresh charge. THEN THEY CHARGE UP TO PEAK VOLTAGE
Thanks for your quick return. I am in contact with a commercial I await their return. The batteries are only 3 months old.
what are the main issues with the current landwheel version? is it dangerous to ride? poor electronics connectors? bad plastic casing?
what were the main issues with the older orange wheeled landwheel versions… someone has told me it was a death trap… any idea why?? mechanical problems and stuff breaking? or just electrical stuff comming loose… or was it the plastic casing falling off mid ride?
thanks, Joe
The main issue with the last orange wheel version (the one we call V4) was the harsh braking
The latest black wheel ones (L3-X) are great as far as the ride and operation. The issue we have is the weight of the battery and vibration over time pulling the plastics casing away from the metal base so everything essentially falls off. This is due to the new battery being heavier and the abs just not being strong enough for the abuse a Esk8 puts on it. Landwheel is working on a retrofit fix to this. But a simple Velcro cinch strap will work. You just need to strap the battery and housing to the base of the drive unit so the weight it distributed to the strongest material.
Does the LX-3 have better range and speed and torque than the V4?
did the V4 have the same issues with the battery being heavy or comming apart in any way?
what about the V3?
were there any issues with electronics failing due to poor onnectors or something? on V3, V4, or LX-3?
did the V4 or V3 need the replacement screws or otherwise have anything wrong with the screws or locktite used by the factory…
Yes. The V4 had limited range becasue the ESC lacked the pacing needed to keep the battery above critical voltage during accelleration. The V4 would accelerate full tilt without concern for battery voltage. Voltage would drop during accelleration and then the V4 woud suddenly shut down. The L3-x paces the accelleration so as to maintain a buffer between battery voltage and critical voltage. L3-X range depends a lot upon temperature and continuity of the run. Temperatures near zero reduce range. Long continuous runs increase range because the relatively frictionless hub motors can coast very efficiently. Andrew Penman in Australia did a “warm” continuous run of 11.1 kilometers on 3 out of 4 battery lights.
Stop and go rides with heavier riders in colder temperatures seems to produce a ride of about 6.75 kilometers for a full battery down to zero.
Naturally, a second battery to swap or a 4WD set-up extends the range. I get about 6 KM of range on 1/4 battery at zero degrees on my 4WD. However, I doubt I’d get an additional 6 km for the remaining three lights. Cold weather and low battery don’t work well together. In warm weather, I’m pretty sure I could get 20 - 24 kilometers out of the 4WD Landwheel. No way for me to test that theory out for a few months.
ESC failures were common on the V3 and V4.
The L3-X ESC is completely different and has been very reliable unless used in conjunction with a V4 battery. The L3-X battery and ESC are designed to work together to support full battery braking. The V4 Battery is wired differently. When the L3-X ESC attempts to do full battery braking with a V4 battery, the ESC cannot properly divert the regenerative current. This fries the ESC.
Riders are advised to never use V4 batteries in L3-X drives.
The factory never used Loctite on the screws. Loctite disolves and weakens ABS. ABS tends to fail shortly after.
One customer is known to have used loctite when installing the longer screws and his ABS posts crumbled within days.
The longer screws from the factory were not an effective solution and may have actually made the problem worse becasue more torque is required to tighten them so damage to the posts during assembly became more likely.
Until the Stainless Steel Reinforcement kits are available, riders should use a large velcro strap to hold the ABS Shell and battery to the Base plate.
oh wait a minute… i thought the long screws had to do with the hub caps or something… judging from the loctite post above with the pictures broken circular plastic things… its just the battery compartment that needs longer screws?
im probably just gonna buy a LX-3 and use either velcro or a metal S shaped bracket to bolt to the deck and then comes up and over the battery to hold it tight against the deck… i dont mind screwing right through the deck im using
also im wondering if theres a way to charge the battery without removing it from the board and docking it on that dock thing? or some kind of regula charging cable i could buy that will do the job…