This is a great post that wrote the history of LANDWHEEL and beta testers. cheers!
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Sorry for the late reply, as I wanted to really give your piece a good read. This was an incredible documentation of youāre experience with Landwheel. It seems to be a long time coming for you and the others that have either just beta tested or needed a working product. But, the outcome seems to be positive. The combination of experienced riders and builders really gave the product a transformation that I donāt see many Chinese companies doing.
Itās interesting to see how common it is to hear a reviewer say āthose brakes are strongā in a positive way. Unlike some of the DIYers, the common person may not know that a comment like that may lead to a possible hard braking issue that Chinese boards have. My first build was built with the VESC and the buttery smooth and configurable braking was something I was used to. So after reviewing a couple boards with hard breaking, I knew that it was my responsibility to report truthfully or people can really get hurt. But, youāre right that many production board companies are not getting the braking on their boards right.
I really appreciate you sharing your experience and letting me pick your brain. Iāve noticed Landwheel sending out LX-3ās to esk8 YouTubers such as Andrew Penman, Tishwan, Ronnie Sarmiento, myself and others. As part of the DIY community I see things from a different perspective than some of my counterparts. Iāve had my experiences with other Chinese and Kickstarter type companies and really ran into the same thingsā¦an unrefined product. It refreshing to hear your story and to hear that there are companies and esk8ers that have worked together in hope to bring a great product into the market.
So, right now Iām sitting on my LX-3 trying to figure out my approach to review and report on the interesting machinery that it is. The back story to it is great and It would be unfair to categorize it as your typical Chinese company. However, it does still sound like it is a work in progress. Thanks again for your help.
I hope itād would be okay with you if I used your write up as a reference to my in depth review. I plan to do an unboxing, talking about general specs. Then Iāll follow up with an in depth review of my experience along with the experience of others. Your write up will help me approach this review with a journalistic perspective. As a reference it will help me paint a picture of how the product came to where it is now.
Thanks again!
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I would suggest that you delay your review video until Jason reads up on the issue we currently have. Iām pretty sure stating that this drive is āa work in progressā would drive away potential customers and not saying it would be false advertising and dangerous.
Once Landwheel gets back to us on their next step you can at least honestly let viewers know of what to expect and in the meantime they can add a strap onto the unit and feel confident that the company will standby their warranty.
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Well said Mike. It should be just a matter of days or a week at most before we know some details. The remaining problems are likely the easiest to fix compared to everything else that has been improved and corrected.
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Hey, Iāve sent you a pm in here regarding the invocie you told me about earlier. 
Just Replied.
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Agreed! Iāve been delaying it for about a month now and been doing a lot of research on the forum as my Landwheel box collects dust 
I felt torn recently because I felt like I owed Jason a review. Yet, I feel like my review would be an injustice to the product and the sum of your guysā efforts. Iāll hold off for sure and maybe just do a quick unboxing if anything. The in-depth review will wait till we get a response from Jason. Appreciate the perspective Mike!
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Just wanted to point out to anyone in a winter region where the roads are salted that you should wait until the early April showers wash the salt dust off the roads.
Salt is deadly for most any skateboard. The salt will permeate the bearings. Corrosion will follow shortly thereafter.
For any e-board, salt will also permeate battery contacts & BMS (if there is a removable battery) and electronics unless these areas are completely dust and moisture proof.
Outrunner motors (like a boosted board) would be seriously damaged by salt dust. Hub motors would be affected primarily at the inner bearings.
The only exception would be a OneWheel if you are diligent about giving it a shower every time you get home.
Other than that, no matter what electric skateboard you ride, salt dust will destroy your skateboard.
Just because the snow has melted does not mean its riding season yet ā not unless you consider your e-board disposable.
And if the roads are only sanded, then its still worth waiting for the street sweepers to brush the slippery sand of the roads before you start carving.
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Quick Update:
Landwheel is now working on a set of metal brackets that anchor the ABS shell to the aluminum backing plate. One clamp makes use of the two truck bolts that are closest to the power switch. The second clamp is a strike plate that reinforces the battery latch and clamps under the Aluminum base plate.
I believe this will work.
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Thatās good to hear!
how exactly are the hub wheels mounted onto the truck to lock into place? can we get a picture with the wheel off the truck??
If I understand correclty, you want to know how to remove/replace the hub motors on the V4. As I recall, the V4 shipped without the special tool required to tighten or remove the axle nut. The L3 X ships with this tool. Its just a thin walled socket. It looks like this.
If you have a spare 13mm deep socket and a belt sander, I imagine you could mount the socket on a drill and turn down the outside. Not sure if that would work but its possible. Otherwise, you might be able to order the tool from Landwheel.
Does that answer your question or were you just wanting to know how to remove/Replace the PU Wheel covers?
Removing the PU wheel covers is much easier. Remove the hub cap. Then you will see 4 screws that need to be removed. Finally, you need to look for the matching four screws on the back side of the wheel. There are 8 screws in total.
When you re-install the new PU wheel covers, use proper technique to tighten these up. Use the same technique as for tightening lug nuts on a car. Tighten each screw a little bit at a time and cycle across and around. For example do a light tightenting of opposing screws 1,3,2,4. Then repeat the opposing screw cycle four or five times. Then finish up with a few cycles of around the clock ā 1,2,3,4.
The wrong way to re-install the wheel would be to fully torque one bolt before moving to the next. If you did that, you would likely end up with a significant wobble or you could end up cross threading some of the screws
wow!!! ā¦ yes i needed that because someone else answered my questionā¦ but didnt include that infoā¦ but i did notice that the axle nut is somehow recessed into the wheel so that makes sense nowā¦ i would have been shit outaa luck trying to unscrew it with needle nose plyers or something
the main info i was looking for was how the hub wheel locks onto the truckā¦ i later found out it was with a square section of the hanger that locks into the statorā¦ same as maytech hub motorsā¦ for some reason no one ever talks about this as though its not important,ā¦ which it isā¦ because hub motors require special trucksā¦ and sellers never make it clear and it just becomes a nightmare down the road when you need a different truck or somethingā¦ or if you want to create a private label brand using certain hub wheels and find out you cant use just any truckā¦ etcā¦
wasnt really interested in removing the PU wheelsā¦ nor will i ever beā¦ because i refuse to treat that as anything less than actual common sense information lolā¦ and am pretty peeved that everyvideo ive ever seen on āhow to remove the hub wheelā just covers removing the PU wheel and nothing elseā¦ and im left pausing the video for the half a second the camera is pointed at the backside of the wheel butted up against the truck trying to decipher how it is mounted.
doesnt help that most chinese manufacterers are dumb and often times on an alibaba listingā¦ one picture shows the underside of the board with one type of hub motorā¦ and another shot you can clearly see a completely different type of hub motor with a different truckā¦ and cant even be sure what youre getting on a massive order of 100 boards or something to be private labeledā¦ kinda messed up if you ask me
i am trying to actually use my own custom trucks with this same hub motorā¦ with a very tight hanger widthā¦
im curious how long the axle is (not including the square part of the hanger) in order to fit the unusually widehub motor width cmpared to regular longboard wheels with the recessed bearingsā¦ it seems liek it could just be the regular axle width such as on regular skate trucksā¦
So you want to produce your own brand of electric longboard with wider stance trucks and you want to base it on the Landwheel Motor only? Or you want to private label a Landwheel but substuting wider trucks? I can see the advantage of wider trucks, not just for stability at speed but also to extend beyond the width of the board to avoid wheel bite (Board hitting the wheels when you turn).
You canāt really blame those video makers as very low percentage of customer buy these to DIY. They buy them to use as-is and the only thing they expect to do is change the sleeve.
i actually want to offer a variety of truck widthsā¦ some up to 230mm total widthā¦ (the boards are extremely long and therefore never really get tripped over when kicking off analog styleā¦) which yesā¦ does reduce wheel biteā¦ stabilityā¦ but also is part of a whole different subculture of skaters that is totally unaware of electric skateboardsā¦ its basically the chill layed back 6 foot longboards that are very flexible and low to the ground and meant to ride slowā¦ it has a huge following in my area
also i actually want to offer SUPER NARROW trucksā¦ that in no way shape or form stick out from underneath the deckā¦ and want to prototype the SMALLESAT EBOARD EVER MADEā¦ google search the SPECTRA e boardā¦ and tell me that thing doesnt look super goofy AF with the wide trucksā¦
when i used to own an acton blink the first thing i did was transfer everything over to a smaller deck for portabilityā¦ and the main issue was not the battery fitting on a smaller deck thats a cake walk and without even sacrificing the kicktailā¦ the main issue was the stupidly wide trucksā¦ and the hub motor version AND the belt drive version both only worked on the proprietary trucksā¦ and even if i did a diy belt versionā¦ that means even less space for squeezing the battery between the truck and needing a longer boardā¦ and it means that the trucks can only be so narrow before you cant fit the before you have problems fitting the thick brackets and belt gearsā¦ hub motors could basically be a hair away from touching the kickpin and wouldnt really have any problemsā¦
the only options are spend thousands of dollars to argue with chinese people about building a moldā¦ or take an angle grinder and cut a square piece out of the truck hanger and call it a dayā¦ but you can only use certain hub motors with the square holeā¦ ill chose the latterā¦ also removing material to make the hub motor slide over the hangerā¦ or even removing entire parts of the hanger to expose more axleā¦ means that most hub motors will go past and expose some threads to get a few turns on the axle nutā¦ while without that the hub motor would be too wideā¦
Do you have pictures? I think the long dance boards are kind of cool in general but I donāt see the advantage of putting narrow trucks on them. Regarding the micro boards, I canāt imagine putting a 48KPH set of hub motors on a micro deck. Your interests seem to be at two polar opposites of the spectrum of e-boards. Not criticising you for it. Its just an observation.
basically:
the extra wide trucks go on the long boardsā¦
the mini trucks go on the mini boardsā¦
i wouldnt put the mini trucks on the long boards because the whole point of the mini trucks is to fit the board in a backpack (standard size trucks make it difficultā¦ no matter how tiny the deck)
when i first met the guy who makes these decksā¦ i was riding a āalvaā 60ās style wood penny board style thingā¦ i was obsessed with carving and turning around tight corners and stuff is what i was afterā¦ we were smoking a joint at a bon fire when i met the guy he walks up introduced himself and proceeded to comment on my āniceā Alva board but added that he himself prefers the much longer boardsā¦
i was imagining he was talking about more like boosted board length (didnt exist at that time) so i thought to myselfā¦ what an idiotā¦ to each his ownā¦ if he like giant boards that arent portable thats his problemā¦ and also what a snobā¦ i guess hes one of those speed freaks that wants the 0.2% more speed that longboards giveā¦ but also cant turn around a sidewalk corner to save your lifeā¦ and tick tacking around the corner is even more difficultā¦ and the long boards just overall suck at carving down the street in a tight S curveā¦
then when i talked to him months later he explained to me that he is not some downhill speed snob at allā¦ it would actually be DANGEROUS to do that on his boardsā¦ these boards are basically 2 boosted board lengthsā¦ nothing like what i was imaginingā¦ and actually meant to be ridden slowlyā¦ theyre designed for safety for like 40 year olds that just wanna barefoot ride these giant bouncy flexible boards to the beach or boardwalk and cant really afford a fallā¦ theyre super low to the ground and good for your hips when pedalingā¦ and the trucks are super wide but tripping over them is never a problem because the board is so longā¦ and furthermoreā¦ turning around the corner on sidewalks worst case scenario you just stop the board and spin it with your handsā¦ and jump back onā¦ i rode it for the first time and was sitting there like āoh i understand nowāā¦ its not like some ergonomic old person medical board eitherā¦ it just ends up coincidentally being a lot easier and safer to rideā¦
if anythingā¦ the boosted sized board crowd are even bigger idiots than him because they WONT EVEN ACKNOWLEDGE how shitty they are at carving or turning corners or tic tackingā¦ they just act like theyre totally fine and theres no pros and cons to moving to a short boardā¦ and just say shortboards suck because the longboards go like 1% faster and i guess theyre trying to set the downhilling world speed record or somethingā¦
this guy at least acknowledgedā¦ yeah they suck at turningā¦ its meant for straight lines and chill, safe, bouncy flexible riding or like hanging ten on an exaggeratedly long boardā¦ and its a conscious decision that you dont mind spinning the board with your hands sometimesā¦ in order to get those other benefitsā¦
he actually makes them in his basement with a CNC machine and stuff uses sand as the grip tape in the stain on the woodā¦ and has a huge followingā¦ people pay him like $500 for themā¦ its kinda dumb expensive but its all his neighbors and stuff so i get why they do itā¦ for like a custom boardā¦ etcā¦
as far as having polar opposite interestsā¦ im actually only interested in personally riding one of these style boardsā¦ but interested in prototyping and possibly selling bothā¦ try to guess which oneā¦ (the mini)ā¦
the larger board was a nightmare to convert because no hub motor factories sell 230mm wide trucksā¦ not a single one
same issue for the mini trucks for smaller style boardā¦
the only option these days is to use both style boards with the same size truck (speaks volumes about the damage casey neistat has done to the hobby)ā¦ WHEN I CONVERTED BOTH BOARDS TO ELECTRICā¦ i got complaints from the longboard crowd that they miss the giant trucks and asking why the front trucks are so much bigger than the rear drive trucksā¦ nobody complained about the mini board having wide trucksā¦ (but i still noticed the cumbersomeness)
also n$%#@ pleaseā¦ I could ride 20mph on one foot drunk on a board the size of 1 and half feet WITH NO GRIP TAPEā¦ its not an issue for meā¦ so i refuse to discuss stability, speed wobbles, etcā¦ its all nonsenseā¦ speed wobbles OK MAYBEā¦ its also just minor issues that can be worked out later onā¦ the main thing is the overall conceptā¦ dont worry about the detailsā¦
thats liek saying a prebuilt electric skateboard is bad because the plastic enclosure is brittle or the trucks crack in halfā¦ uuhhā¦ doesnt say anything about the motor/ battery/ escā¦ and would be even less important if companies and factories would just STANDARDIZE HUB MOTOR TRUCKSā¦ then you could easily go and buy fancy (SNOBBY) titanium hub motor trucks or some shit that will fit your hub motor wheelsā¦ people on this forum saying the such and such koowheel or landwheel production board trucks cracked on themā¦ uuh then use the trucks you likeā¦ or build some that are made of serious metalā¦ and keep the motor/esc/battery from the productā¦ same thing happens on cheap longboardsā¦ the hanger will crack in half sometimesā¦ oh thats funny for a second i forgot we werent on the ANALOG LONGBOARD STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY FORUMā¦ a production e-board product shouldnt be judged on the hanger being type 5 aluminum (lol thats nonsense im not a metallurgist)ā¦ it should be judged on the battery specs being shitty and the esc having cheap wiringā¦ and whateverā¦
and complaining about speed wobbles on the SMALLEST EBOARD EVER MADE is akin to complaining about lower grade aluminum perfectly machined trucks on a raptor 2ā¦ (he actually uses some fancy heat sink metal so bad example)
people need to stop assuming for me what i can and cant rideā¦ like oh thankyou! for deciding for me that i wont be able to ride fast on a mini board so putting a speed limit on it (cough Kuickwheel Serpent C)
Not judging you or putting any speed limits on you. Nothing wrong with enjoying dance boards and micro boards at the same time. If you make something cool out of landwheel parts, be sure to post pictures. Iām sure weāll all be interested.
sureā¦ i dont imagine youre judging meā¦ but i hope you understand what it is im afterā¦ lots of people dont see the point of different sized trucksā¦ and have been telling me to just buy a raptor 2 or a meepo and im likeā¦ did you just listen to anything ive saidā¦ or telling me to buy meepo boards or something and to use the parts for a diy projectā¦ when the meepo hub motors are specifically impossible to make custom trucks forā¦ or to just buy an Acton blink S because its āportable enoughāā¦ when it uses huge trucksā¦ and proprietary hub motor bracketsā¦ that would be very hard to create custom mini trucks forā¦ actually meepo and acton hub motors are the same bracket systemā¦
also i enjoy one more than the otherā¦ but if i were to use bothā¦ it would be under totally different circumstances and applicationsā¦ its really just recognizing what people in my neighborhood are afterā¦ and trying to build it for themā¦ 2 major crowdsā¦ because its really not available on the market so farā¦
oh and yes i will be posting the results!