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Landwheel L3-X Reviews


My VESC settings are pretty standard: 50A/-50A motor, 45A/-10A battery “power mode” and 30A/-50A motor for “normal” mode :slight_smile: I can do 10s and 12s with these values. For BLDC they should be the same, my friends use only 30A with the Maytechs you got but they’re still impressive :slight_smile: even in BLDC the hubs are quiet. FOC is a little bit better but BLDC is fine too. They’re afraid that they’ll fry the ESC with FOC.
I’ll get you the XML later :wink:


Thanks. pk


Hey guys, I completed the cell swap with 21700 cells.
I installed the BMS outside the case, so it can not be used with original LANDWHEEL.

I use only LANDWHEEL’s battery compartment in my build.

I run over 20km with this battery pack, it seems there is no problem.

The inside of the case is quite tight.
Since the capacity of the cell I used is 3500mAh, I can only run the same distance as the original battery pack.
It is not waterproof at all. :joy:


Interesting. So what does it look like connected to your board? Pictures?


I have a landwheel l3x v5 and started having problems with the hub motor locking up under low load but free’s up under high load. Could that be caused by the same issue?



Open up the compartment below the battery and disconnect the sensor wires for the motor that is locking up. Leave connected the sensor wire for the other motor.

Let me know if it works much better afterwards.

If it works better, you can assume that the sensor wires are damaged in one of the motors. Disconnecting the sensor wire makes the ESC run sensorless on one side.

You want to run the other motor with sensors becasue it will help you with low speed starts.

If this fix works, you the acelleration should be almost indistinguishable from when both motors running with working sensors.

I have not had this problem myself. However, I recall another poster having the same problem as you.


Also, dont assume that the left sensor socket on the circuit board corresponds to the left motor. They may actually cross over. If you disconnect the three motor wirers on one side, and then run the motors, you will know if they cross over or if left corresponds to left and right to right.

Once you figure that out, reconnect the three motor wires and diconnect the sensor corresponding to the damaged motor.


I’m guessing the wires i have outlined are the sensor wires? I couldn’t disconnect them because they’re glued together. I decided to put everything back together after disconnecting and reconnecting the motor wires and fiddling with the sensor wires. Miraculously the motor worked fine under low load once again. My guess is one of the wires is either loose or pinched. I messaged the company from which i ordered my Landwheel from in case my warranty covers it but I’m worried it doesn’t.
Yes the wires for the motors where on the opposite side.



It might have been a loose motor wire. You may have fixed the problem by reseating the motor wire connectors. It is also possible that a bad solder joint is present in one of the motor wires. If that is the case, the problem might return but it could be very easy to fix with some solder.

Another possibility is a broken wire in the sensor wires. Breaks inside the insullation can connect and disconnect depending on the position of the wire. Moving the wires around like you did can temporarily restore the continuity.

If the problem returns, and you want to try disconnecting the sensor wires, this is not difficult to do. The yellow glue that you have circled is not hard to remove with strong plyers or wire cutters. Just use the plyers or wire cutters to crush and tear at the glue. Once you break the glue’s seal in a small area, the entire blob of glue becomes easy to peel off with pliers. I find wire cutters are best for crushing the glue. You can glue them back together with hot glue if you find the sensor wire is not the problem.

One other thing to look for is this. The landwheels with the ABS shells all suffer from broken screw posts eventually. when this happens the metal backing plate and the ABS shell won’t be held tightly together. That can allow wires like the sensor wires to slip between the ABS shell and the backing plate. It is one way that the wires can be damaged.

If you have replaced your ABS shell with a PVC shell, make sure you did not pinch any wires between the shell and the backing plate during re-assembly. Pinched wires can either break or short circuit. Both types of problems can be intermittent. So it may be worth it for you to disassemble the backing plate to inspect the condition of the screw posts. Prior to disassembling the backing plate you need to remove the electronics cover. During the disassembly check that the motor wires and sensor wires are not pinched between the backing plate and the ABS shell or between the backing plate and the battery terminal block.

The fact that just assembly and re-assembly has resolved the problem suggests that there is a possibility of intermittent connecetivity of a wire or intermittent shorting of wires.

The best case for you is that reseating the motor wire bullet connectors has fixed this permanently. However, I think this is less likely than the various intermittent scenarios that I described above.

It’s worth taking the time to track down an intermittent problem. For example, if you are traveling along at full speed and one motor wire diconnects, then having only two motor wires connected can lock the motor into a fixed position.


The way to test the motor wire bullet connectors is to gently pull each bullet connector away from the wire. If its a bad solder connection, the connector should pull right off the wire.


I’m looking for defective LW units to salvage trucks and hub motors, anyone? :smiley:


I think I fixed my issue. I read somewhere that someone had issues with their phase wires shorting out with their hall sensor wires on their eboard. I decided to separate the wires and use heat shrink over the bullet connectors and put a little dab of hot glue over the hall sensor connector. So yesterday I took a 14.5 miles trip on the Landwheel and clocked 9.5 miles on a single battery with mixed riding (pushing downhill) on slow mode and did the rest with another battery in high mode and still had a flashing blue light left. I’m so happy again :blush:


New problem? My battery died while riding in pro mode and sent me flying. It doesn’t turn on unless I swap batteries. I road with the other battery no problem but the 1st one is completely dead. Does this have any correlation to both my hall sensors still being connected?
Here’s a link of me swapping batteries after I just fell.


9.5 miles on a landwheel battery is far to long. 5 - 6 miles is the practical upper limit (if you power down at the appropriat battery indicator). As soon as you hit the third flashing blue light, its time to stop immediately. It is possible to ride longer but it puts the battery in peril.

The landwheel battery has a rapid discharge rate which gives it the wild acceleration and hill climbing.

It also has a rapid recovery rate.

So if you ride down to the third flashing blue light, then coast or push or just ride with a very light thumb on the throttle, the battery will recover voltage. Unfortunately, the voltage recovery is a very shallow charge.

So if you keep repeating this riding style to squeeze the maximum distance out of a landwheel battery then you are likely to destroy the battery in a single trip.

You can’t ride a landwheel battery on the last flashing blue light. As soon as the last blue light starts flashing it’s time to power down. Easing off on the accelerator, heading down hill or anything else you do after the third light starts flashing blue is just serving to progressively ratchet the battery down below its minimum safe charge.

I did exactly the same thing myself a year ago – the first time I took my first L3-x for a long range ride. I ruined the battery on that one trip. It’s just not the way the product is supposed to be ridden. I recall the manual does say to stop riding when the third light starts flashing.

Once a LW battery is damaged, it becomes very unsafe. The voltage tends to drop extremely fast down to nothing. That sudden loss of all power can trigger the wheels to lock up. I’m not sure if it’s an intentional emergency brake or if the circuit board just fails to cycle the power between the three motor wires. I’m pretty sure it’s the second scenario, I think below a certain voltage, the ESC gets stuck in one of the three charge positions, effectively locking one or both motors in to place.

With an undamaged battery, the ESC has time to power down gracefully. But with a damaged battery the voltage drop is so sudden that there is no time for a graceful power down.

For the same reasons described above, you never want to power up a landwheel that has just powerd down due to low voltage. In the time that it takes to step off the board and turn it upside down, the landwheel battery can recover enough voltage to trick the ESC into thinking it has enough power to continue.


If the heat shrink on the motor wires appears to have fixed your intermittent motor lock, then the original problem was likely a bad solder joint. I really doubt that you had a charge jumping the huge air gap between bullet connectors. That’s very implausible.

So I supect the heat shrink is only masking a bad solder joint. I recommend you cut off the heat shrink and tug on the bullet connectors until you find the bad connection. If you can’t find the flaw then just resolder them all.

An intermittent connection on a motor wire can cause the wheels to lock in one postion. Safety first. An electic skateboard is not something you want to hold together wiht bubble gum, duct tape, or heat shrink.


Hi Guys,

Me again, was wondering, did anybody here build an external battery pack bypassing their removable battery?
I am planning to do so and will drill a hole in the case to connect to the external battery. Do you think that is possible? Any tips on the wiring?



You can use 10S battery pack. like this.

Of course you can use the battery pack you made yourself.
I actually made it with 21700 cells.


Guys, i am building an external battery, it is going to be 10s4p with external enclosure, do you think I still need an anti spark swith for the built? My plan is just to plug in the battery with the yellow connection on the board

Btw, is that xt60/xt90? I can’t seem to find the label there

Thanks for the help!


That is the XT60 connector.