Landwheel L3-X Reviews

Today, I hit 48.1 Kph on the 4WD L3-x.

I had a chance to go for my first warm weather ride on the 4WD L3-X. I went for an hour long run with my son riding the G1 boosted board dual, my daughter’s boyfriend on the G2 boosted board dual + and me on the 4WD L3x.

Warm weather makes all the difference. I did 10KM on just one battery dot even though I was accellerating hard, up hill, down hill and top speed. We cut the ride short becasue the boosted boards were down to half battery at the 5KM mark.

The range and roll-on acceleration of the 4wd L3-x in warmer weather is so far beyond the zero degree weather experience. I’m blown away.

On a gentle down hill section, I hit 48.1 kph.

Top speed handeling was amazing but note that I swapped out the standard L3-x bushings with Bones Medium high performance cone bushings on the top and KHIRO Barrel Bushings on the bottom. Without this mod, I would not have felt safe riding the L3-X above 33KPH.

Here is the map my ride chart.

I also raced the boosted board+ G2 on an up hill section. The BB+G2 rider weighs 165. I weigh 225. This is just the first 30 seconds of the race before the boosted board hit its top speed and I disapeared into the distance.

The map my ride charts don’t show the uphill race becasue my Iphone was standing still doing the filming.

I’l try to get some better race footage and charts tomorrow.

We left for this ride with no SD card in the Go-pro. I won’t make that mistake tomorrow.

Now to be fair to the Boosted Board the steering on the boosted board is noticibly more precise. I attribute the precision to the wider trucks, smaller wheels and lower center of gravity on the Boosted board.

My 4WD L3-x is higher off the ground due in part to the larger landwheel wheels but also due to the half inch rubber risers that I use to absorb vibration. While those risers cost me some handling, I finished the 55 minute long ride without any vibration numbess in my feet. The much younger G2 Boosted board+ rider finished the ride commenting about how numb his feet felt.

However, without the 1/2 inch rubber risers on the 4WD L3-X the vibration levels would have been comparable to or slightly higher than the Boosted Board. So the vibration differences are primarily due to mounting choices.

And while the price of two Landwheels and a Vanguard deck is close to that of a boosted board, its not really fair to compare accelleration and top speed of a 2000 watt boosted board to a 4400 watt 4WD L3-x.

A final point of fairness to the boosted board is that the product quality, assembly and durability are perfect. Both boosted boards arrived perfect and performed that way for 3 years (G1) and 2 years (G2). I’ve had no battery failures or any other type of failure on the boosted boards. Landwheels have yet to earn that type of reputation.

So definitley this is not an apples to apples comparison. I’m just saying a 4WD L3-X can do some pretty cool things for a very heavy rider who wants great brakes, great acelleration, long range and lots of flexibilty for deck length, and other mounting options.

My plan for tomorrow is to finally mount the extended range battery on the Boosted board G2+. Boosted board has sent me extra risers. The Extended range battery is very thick compared to the stock battery. So the extra risers are recommended to give the battery proper clearance.

When those changes are done, we can take both boards for a super long ride.

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Update on Landwheel Shell failure Solution.

The beta test team recommended a stainless steel retrofit solution to prevent the ABS Shell failures. After consulting with engineers, Landwheel has decided to go with a different solution. They are switching from an ABS plastic to a polycarbonate. Most motorcycles helments are made from polycarbonate. Polycarbonate has high impact resistance and much more density, flexibility and structrural integrity than ABS.

Landwheel shared some 6 foot drop test videos with me. The L3-x with the new shells survived the drop test.

I’ll keep you posted on when the stronger shells will be available.

Until then, any ABS shell Landwheel needs to be reinforced with one or two heavy duty velcro straps.


Hey, i know i might be a little late on this, but i am also interested in a landwheel!

Hello! I’m a friend of thelol182 he told me to to write to you :slight_smile:

What can I do for you?

This is my friend that ordered a board with thru me, could you send him a invite? Thanks.

Did that this morning.

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Alrght! Thought at first you might have missed my PM. Thanks! :slight_smile:

<hi there! I have been using the Landwheel L3 for some time, and now switched to the L3-X… Sadly. That only caused issues so far. The first one stopped working after i used the break (battery was fully charged)… Could never turn it back on again, I got a new one luckily, that one broke after a week or two, the ABS Battery Case fell off… (I have read that problem happened many times by now). Well, I fixed that by using longer screws its still in one piece for now. But since today, the weird fan (i think it is a fan) doesnt stop making its weird noise.
Even when the board is turned off! As soon as the battery is inserted, this L3-X “idling cycle” sound starts. Does anyone know what is causing that sound, and why it doesnt stop unless i pull out the battery?

Thanks and also this is my first post here, sorry i dont have anything other to contribute…

Hi Fredi,

Were you using the V4 battery with the L3-X?
I saw this comment above by pkasanda:

The L3-X ESC is completely different and has been very reliable unless used in conjunction with a V4 battery. The L3-X battery and ESC are designed to work together to support full battery braking. The V4 Battery is wired differently. When the L3-X ESC attempts to do full battery braking with a V4 battery, the ESC cannot properly divert the regenerative current. This fries the ESC.

Riders are advised to never use V4 batteries in L3-X drives.

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Hey! Huh… good to know! I do have and use a V4 battery too, yes… but after reading this, I’ll better not use it anymore.
However, at the moment, no matter which battery I use, when fully charged the breaking doesn’t work. It shuts down or almost dies when doing so -
And the weird sound issue right now also doesn’t stop no matter what battery i put in. Do you think because I’ve used the V4 battery already, that the ESC is damaged at this point? (I mean the board does basically work its just the fully charged braking issue, and since today the noise that doesn’t stop no matter the board is on or off…)


You need a new ESC and a replacement PCB shell. I can help you get set-up with both if you can wait a few weeks. Where do you live? I don’t work for Landwheel but I’m helping fellow riders to get thier units back up and running with the right list of parts.

Here are a few answers to your questions

The ESC is likely to be damaged under two conditions:

a) Braking with a fully charged V4-battery (because there is no place for the Regenerative current to go)
b) Battery ejection due to large bump or ABS Shell failure (Regen current from the motors can’t be dissipated into the ejected battery.

You had both experiences so take your pick as to which event damaged your ESC.

You may also need a replacement terminal block depending on whether you have a V4 that was upgraded to an L3-x or if your unit was ordered and arrived as an L3-x. If it arrives as an L3-x then you do not need any extra parts.

If you received it as a complete L3-x then you just need the Shell and the ESC.

Please note that the longer screws were not an effective solution. In fact, the longer screws actually caused more damage to the ABS screw posts and resulted in earlier failures. Failures of the shell are very dangerous because if one out of three motor wires becomes disconnected then the result is instant motor lock that can throw you on the pavement. For this reason any riding of a landwheel with an ABS Shell should be done only after taking the precaution of fashioning one or two Velcro straps. If you skim this thread, you will find a video that I posted on tuning up the landwheel with a wheel radius and Velcro straps.

Another caution that you should be aware of is that a damaged Landwheel ESC tends to over deplete the L3-x batteries. If L3-x batteries fall below threshold, they will not take a new charge. So this is another reason to stop using the landwheel until you get replacement parts. Naturally, don’t leave your battery mounted in the drive as you have already observed that your ESC does not power down.

I should have a batch of the new PCB shells in my hands in about 2 weeks. Landwheel has them on hand and will be shipping them to me sometime this week. I’ve volunteered to perform a series of drop tests and rough road tests and to inspect the condition of the posts after those tests. I will also be trying a few different screw lengths and configurations to see if there is an optimal screw to work with the new PCB shell.

When I’m done with that, then the team at landwheel can make the decision to ship more broadly than to the beta test team (of which I am a volunteer member).

The last thing that I’ll point out is that an alternative to getting the parts that I’ve outlined above is the option of receiving a complete replacement unit fully assembled with a new warranty. That option is not free and the shipping is not free. However, you would end up with a new fully assembled unit and lots of spare parts from your original. You end up with extra battery, charger, wheels, motors, etc. It’s an offer that is technically only open to the beta testers. But if it interests you I can see if it’s possible to sign you up for that.

Reposting Velcro links:


Dear pkasanda,

Thank you so much for this super detailed post and answering all questions, and the offer as well!
I did also contact landwheel, got a response, and now waiting for the next one. As soon as i got the final response from them, I can let you know whether i still need the replacement parts or not.

So does this mean the new PCB shells aren’t officially on sale yet? (or not officially in the set when you buy a full set)?
Also becoming a beta tester sounds pretty cool. I think I’d love to be part of that, if they are looking for more testers I guess.

Thanks again for your time and your reply, as mentioned, i will wait for the landwheel response first and then let you know hopefully within a week. I really appreciate your help!

I will talk to you soon,

I got it from (the guy who runs it). He did get the original set from landwheel as far as i know.

I took my 4WD L3-x for a massive 22km ride today. On Friday, I bought my wife an electric bike (Trek) that has a 70 km range.

She wants to ride it to work on the Ottawa bike paths so we tested the route out. I packed two extra batteries in her saddle bags and off we went. We followed the river heading down stream so gravity was on my side for most of the first 11km (before doubling back). But at the 10km mark, I ascended a slope that climbed from 45m above sea level to 85 feet above sea level (from the river shore up to the top of Parliament Hill). The 40m rise follows a path winds 150 up Parliament Hill for an average grade of 26%. But I swear, portions of the path were pretty close to 45 degrees (50% grade). The 4WD landwheel easily accelerated my 225 pound weight like the hill was not there (and like as if I was on a full battery). I wish I could have videotaped it but the twists, turns and pot holes needed my full attention.

Here is the base of the climb:

and a 3D view:

And here is the map my ride elevation chart.

The green circles are the base of the climb by the river. The red circle is the top of Parliament Hill. The Orange circle is the 14.94 kilometer mark where I stopped to change batteries.

So from the top of Parliament Hill/Supreme court plateau, (11km) we turned around and headed back the same path that got us there. I charged up my batteries a few dots on the way back down Parliament Hill. The braking on the steep slope was spectacular. I had complete control of my downhill speed. Then 4 more kilometers of minor hills until the battery swap.

The 4WD Landwheel is not perfect. It really needs a pair of battery balance wires to avoid draining one battery more than the other. I think my double remote union part allows the remote posts to shift off center during the ride. Then one remote becomes dominant and drain it’s drive faster. So without the battery balancing wires I need to watch the battery lights much more than I’d like to. And near the end of my range, I worry that one Landwheel is going to initiate the low battery braking curve. So I’m going to try to add the battery balancing wires (simple jumper cables) this week.

I’ve been riding with my tether. It’s just a dog leash tied to the back of the deck and a neoprene covered carabineer to improve the grip and comfort. I’ve added them to all of my boards.

It’s amazing. I have to do a video on this. The benefits are huge. Added balance. I can lean forward into acceleration and pull myself back for deceleration. Crossing roads, I can just hop off and pull the board behind me without having to stoop. When I’m crossing an intersection and the curb is too tall to rise over, I just hop off and let the board climb the curb without my weight. This dog leash thing is the greatest electric skateboarding invention ever I swear.

Speaking of dog leashes – not just one but two different dogs lunged at my groin on this trip. Once right in the middle of this narrow wooden pedestrian bridge.

The owner was walking towards me coming the other way with a leashed yellow lab and as I passed him he lunged. He missed my groin with his teeth by less than 4 inches. Then it happened again closer to home with a black lab on a residential street. It’s the kind of surprise that could easily make you lose your balance and hit the pavement. But my tether kept me upright while I pulled my midsection out of harm’s way. It’s hard to explain how the tether helps to anchor and re-center your body. Losing my balanceon that pedestrian bridge could have thrown me over the guard rail and into the river.

So to jump to the conclusion of this 22km trip, I arrived back home with ample battery on my second pair of batteries. The max range for 2 batteries seems to be 15km (30 km for 4 batteries). That might go up a bit with balancing wires. Also, there were a lot of hills and quite a bit of stop and go because the bike paths have a lot of pedestrians that walk in pairs and don’t seem too care much about the bi-directional bike traffic traveling at 20 -30 kph.

Oh and by the way, I combined a V4 battery with a V2 ESC and Hubs to implement what I call virtual suspension on a rigid kick tail deck.

It’s pretty cool. I can ride it over side walk expansion joints and float right over top of the cracks. I am planning on doing something similar to keep the 4WD landwheel from getting its wheels caught in some of the massive cracks that are so prevalent on Ottawa streets. The V2 did not work at all with its original 29 volt battery. But it’s surprisingly competent when powered by a 42 volt V4 battery. Its neat to have an E-board with a kick tail. I wish the pavement quality was better in my neighborhood though because a rigid deck combined with crappy heavily dimpled pavement is hard on the knees and ankles. I might add my 1/2 inch anti-vibration pads. Also I’m thinking of adding a second battery – though that might make the front end too heavy for tic-tacking around the corners.

And I did a few cool things with my Boosted board G2 plus. I mounted the extended range battery which came with taller risers. But I saw a big problem. The extended range battery is massive in height. I think it’s a half inch thicker and the risers only add a quarter inch. So I ditched the Boosted board risers and added my own half inch rubber risers.

The vibration reduction is impressive but the responsiveness of the steering has taken a big hit. The sharp drifting turns that I use to be able to do are not really available any more. So it’s a tough trade off. But the thickness of the extended range battery is a real issue. I estimated that even with the oversized risers, I’d be scrapping the battery almost constantly.

So before “hitting the road” I decided to make a stainless steel skid plate for it.

This took me a few hours of metal forming. It’s not a project for the light hearted. It was a 4 hour effort. It really works well. I actually do bottom out and scrape at least 2 - 3 times on a 5 kilometer run. The stainless steel skid plate takes all the abuse. It’s glued in place with a checker board application of foam tape, silicone and hot glue.

As I mentioned, I added the dog leash tether to the boosted board. The dimensions of the boosted board and the tether length make it so I can clip the carabineer to the front truck and the tether makes a perfect carrying strap. The G2 Plus is so comfortable to carry like this.

Tether ! Tether ! Tether ! Tether !

You gotta try it.

These dog leashes are $6.00 CDN at The 7 inch padded Carabeeners are $7.00 CDN


Latest Video Review including 4WD L3-x

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Hi everyone, I’m a landwheel owner V5 L3x and have just spent a very rewarding hour poring over this thread. Most of the fixes I’ve sort of got to on my own (fairly new to this forum) but its still been a great help. thanks…
I love this drive, it out performs practically everything else out there for a fraction of the cost.
Range has been an issue but with multiple batteries that is not something worth noting, I do love the fact that if you have an even number of batteries you can always get home and don’t get caught out by lying battery indicators (theres always uber)
Mine does cut out under heavy load (and I am a fairly heavy load lol) and being a diyer its perfectly understandable that the bms cuts in to protect the battery when it senses voltage sag (these are small batteries after all), to compensate i just throttle down when attacking hills and the problem doesn’t occur.
I will definitely use the wheel bevelling hack as mine are badly chunking and every replacement has done the same so thanks again!
I took my drive apart after my first ride to check it all out as it was so quick I wanted to be sure It was put together properly and noticed the screw issue so changed them all out with longer from my RC parts bin and they’ve been fine for 4 months and a lot of ks so far but what i did do that was slightly different to you guys was stop the battery rattling in the case. I know from experience that vibration is the biggest cause of mechanical failure and so I used a sheet of adhesive velcro in the case and the battery and it holds it snug with very little movement. Does make it a bit harder to get the battery out but not a real drama.
What i really wanted to know though before this comment turned into war and peace was 4WD?
Is this a factory specific thing or a DIY hack? Can you purchase another drive and sync it to one remote? I tried their website but for some reason I cant access it
Anyway thanks again for such an informative thread and I will keep you posted on any issues that come up as I use this thing very hard and most days and living in Aus all year round too.


It funny that you arrived at the Velcro hack on your own. If you watch my latest video I show what is probably the exact same Velcro hack.

The new PCB shells seem to shrink out of the mold so there is no longer room for the Velcro and the battery is held very tightly.

I’ll be performing some drop tests and other testing on the shells this week. I’m also going to be trying a variety of screw lengths because I too estimate the prevailing screws are too short.

The 4WD is definitely an end user hack. Landwheel has not been successful in synchronizing remotes.

If you watch the various 4WD videos in this thread, you’ll see one method of harnessing the two remotes together. The best double sided tape to use is Acrylic tape for mounting mirrors. You can find it in home depot with other double sided tapes.

I recommend this one:

If you use a lesser double sided tape, the remotes can slide around causing one drive to work harder than the other. Then the batteries get out of balance. If the foam tape is strong, the batteries deplete very evenly.

Back to the longer screws… longer screws were of limited help with the ABS shells. In fact longer screws often contributed to the splitting of the posts. So definitely use a Velcro strap to hold things together until you get your new shell. Also inspect below the battery cover frequently to make sure none of the wires have slipped between the ABS shell and the aluminum backing plate. This can happen to the antenna wires or the senor wires and damage to the wires can happen as a result.

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Hi Guys. First off, big thanks to pkasanda and the forum for the tips on the wheels and velcro straps! I sanded a profile onto the wheels and it fixed the chunking. Glad I found the video from pkasanda :slight_smile:

I bought my L3-X Unit on the 12th of May. I was told the unit is PC and not ABS after asking them. My batteries both came with no blue stickers. I was told they are the newest and not to worry. As in the video above, without a comparison, its impossible to tell if its a new or old unit.

My issue is range and the safety of the Landwheel. I have been flung off it 3 times already.

The batteries only last less than 2 miles on high mode. They then die and I have to take the battery out, put it back in and restart it. After that I can only ride in low mode without it switching off. At this stage its super slow and I can then get the 5 miles of range. (By slow I mean I could jog faster).

Also, on a few occasions, while in high speed mode, the board had cut out and flung me off! Was flung off today going 19MPH! Fun times…

Is there anyone else having these issues? if so how did you fix them? I would really appreciate any help on this topic as I no longer trust the unit. Feels like I should of bought the Onan, backfire or koowheel instead of the Landwheel… Pity as I want to like and enjoy it.

Hi Byron:

Looks like you’ve got some issues. I’m going to invite you to the beta testers group to see if the collective can help you sort things out.