FOCBOX UNITY $299 | R-SPEC DRIVE KIT $588

Land yachts top speed/Space cell/vesc/dual rspec/fsgt2transmiter


#1

Hello all,
My build has been in the works for a while and is now complete. Shout out to @onloop and @chaka for helping me along the way especially chaka, our string of emails totals over 70 I can’t thank him enough!!! If youre new a good peice of advice is don’t use a metal enclosure if your motor leads don’t have shrink wrap on them. I learned this the hard way.


I kinda cramed the vescs in the box and was wondering if there were problems with this. Should I put the vesc in different boxes so they don’t touch. Chaka put shrink wrap around them but is cut out for the pin adapters and the square things next to the motor leads. If you have any suggestions that would be great.


#2

here is how i built my board
first off i ordered my parts. enertion pro mount kit, 2 r spec, space cell, 2vescs motors the Assembly the of drive train is not described here as Jason has a good video on it.

to secure the electronics to the board i am using dual lock which is a velcro like material but much stronger so i can remove the components easily if needed. this also functions as a release mechanism i have seen in fpv quadrocopters in case of a big crash the battery can pop off and not be smashed.i purchased the box for the electronics at cabelas. it is water proof but because i drilled holes in it it cant be submerged. if the future i will make it so i can get a really tight seal around the wire holes in the box making it almost water proof but for the moment it can handle occasional splashes. to drill the holes i took a drill and predrilled holes in three of the four corners(two for the motor wires and the other one for the battery wires) the pilot hole drilling is to ensure the plastic does not shatter. then i slowly worked my way up in size of drill bits till i had holes that were just big enough. i inserted the vescs in the box and figured out a good way to arrange them shown in the picture above. i then taped the receiver to the lid of the container and connected it to the vescs using a long servo cable that i fashioned to split the signal. if you are going to do this make sure you remove the red wire from one of the connections on one of the vescs. this is so the escs don’t supply twice the power the receiver is supposed to take and burn it out. there are many good resources out there and on this forum on programming the vesc. as a note i bench tested my system before putting things in the box and you should do the same to make sure your system works. the board is basically finished so i closed up the case and fired it up. another plan i have is to make a nice stained wooden enclosure for the battery and the electronics probably will do in the spring. if you like what i have done here i am looking to sell eboards so if you are interested just contact me at hrswan0110@gmail.com.

happy building, Hans


Loaded Vanguard Electronics Attachment
#3

I am actually using a similar plano tacklebox for the enclosure on my build.

I am using a flexible loaded vanguard for my deck. In the past I have tried to use screws to secure things but due to the flex I always end up breaking something. I have since switched to using silicone caulk sealant to hold everything to the board. It flexes with the board, dampens vibrations, and holds very securely.

The silicone caulk can also be used to seal up any holes you have to make in the enclosure and also to seal electronics.


#4

The silicone caulk adheres to the tackle box ?
That surprises me, in my experience those things are made out of plastic to which nothing will adhere.


#5

Yes, silicone works but it depends on the type and preparation. Yesterday I tried using moisture cure silicone. Initially it held well (I could pick up the board from the box). However, you have to be careful to let it cure all the way through, especially if you put it on thick.

However, when I tried it out I found that the flex was too great in this application and the box fell off.

On my next try, I sanded the surface of the box and cleaned it with rubbing alchohol. I then used Ecoflex 00-50 from Smooth-On. This is a two part silicone so it doesn’t matter how thick of a cross section you apply.

I can now jump up and down on the board and the box holds on great!

hic


#6

i am really liking using the tackle box so far. it is rugged, has a lid to open easily, it is pretty cheap, it is easily made water tight and is not conductive. i think that some of the draw backs are that it can shatter when you drill holes and it doesn’t really look that nice in my opinion. overall i would recommend it.


#7

Is everything bolted down now? Pics? Painting the box would take away from some of the ugly. I think valspar makes a platic spray paint.


#8

I too think that’s a good idea, I’ll be following your lead when I finally start putting my board together.
I would’t worry about the looks, its under you board anyway.


#9

I will post pictures once I’m done reassembling my board. I wanted to reverse the drive train so instead of being under me it will be out to the back. I have a debate tournament today so I will not be able to finish it tonight but I will try tommorow. Sorry guys

Hans


#10

Just looking at my cigar box and it is a lot thicker construction than the Plano tackle box but is water and airtight. Would probably make a great electronics box. Just tossing that out there.
Another note to increase silicone effective bond surface area you can use a Dremel to create a very rough burr marks around the wire penetration holes which enhances the physical profile by increasing the surface contact area (by have a very rough surface) or dimpling the surface like a golf ball gets same results.