LaCroix Board Co. -- wood and CF deck + segmented flex carbon fiber enclosure -- GROUP BUY [COMPLETED]

Yes, it really can. It’s a bag made for doing backcountry touring on snowboards (split-boards) and works perfectly with our board. It’s small but really made to carry a load comfortably and even when it’s full, the bag remains slim so the board is not far away from you and won’t throw you off balance.

barely with the 10s6p. You won´t recognize it the way you feel it on an Evolve :wink:

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It’s not that bad on Evolve GTX but sometimes I feel it.

if anyone wonders if you can fit 6 rows of cells + 2 escapes, you can :sweat_smile:

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What type of bms is that?

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allows me to check the balance on my phone

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Are you going to use some velcro to get the weight off the enclosure or is it rated to sit in there? Can’t remember what @pat_arch recommended in that regard

I haven’t thought about velcro and did not see any such recommendation. Is that necessary you reckon? I think it looks really solid as is, especially when screwing the enclosure on the board.

Your guess is as good as mine, I think I see some foam/rubber padding on top of the packs. If they are free to ‘jiggle’ maybe a good idea to put some under as well until there is no jiggle room left.

Using those PCB deck should definitely help keep things solid, if you do decide to use some velcro, do use the strong stuff from 3M.

Personally given all the fires of late I would be securing(&/or foam padding them out) them to stop any possibility of friction causing a short somewhere, also it weighs a lot & you don’t want to damge the enclosure…but I think Arch/Pat’s opinion would be more valuable.

There’s foam above and below, plus silicon everywhere else.:).

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It’s much thiner than kydex I have in my regular board but it has ribbing giving it proper stiffness. It looks like much more susceptible to external mechanical impacts though but durability under battery weight is not a question. I could stand on it laying flat with no harm but foam/silicon for soundproofing is a must. I used double sided foam tape (sparingly as it seem) and I still can hear internals rattle sometimes.

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No need to Velcro the cells to the board. Use double sided foam and stick the packs to the enclosure. We stick everything to it.

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Use more foam and keep padding until no rattles left. We put a foam strip to the deck as well so everything is sandwiched in foam.

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Warning. Be super gentle with the screws, I had this one snap on me for no reason when unscrewing, wasnt applying much force and it wasnt even screwed super tight to begin with, the tinyest groove done with a dremel and a flathead screwdriver were sufficient to get it out.

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I was contemplating changing them to something stronger… But won’t be able to get them in black…

What size are the screws? M4 x 10mm?

Edit Just realized you are in Belgium. I was going to suggest Fastenal.com, but that will only be beneficial if you are in North America.

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Super easy to do if you want to stick to one color scheme. You can dye them with black oxide or even plate them depending on the type of metal used and how much iron is there. Just get some nitrile gloves and use some throw away clothes, paper towels and containers.

Hey @philvanzu, that sucks. Most likely a bad apple. I’ve screwed more than 1000 now and didn’t snap any.

In my opinion, if I were to torque a screw that much to a point where it would snap, I think something else would fail first (the insert maybe? don’t know). Also, as a general comment, you should not torque the screws too much. The screw should go in easy and when you start feeling resistance when the nylon washer (underneath the countersunk washer) is touching the enclosure, maybe do one revolution (or less), then stop.

The screws are M3 phillips because as you can see, they sit just a fraction of a millimiter under the countersunk washer. This enables the washer to be on a very slight angle on the sections of the deck that are curved. As the holes for the inserts in the deck are made with a 3 axis CNC and not a 5 axis CNC, the holes are not always at 90 degrees with the top of the deck - sometimes at 88 or 89 degrees. So the M3 screw being just below the countersunk washer allows this washer to move a slight bit and compensate for that 1 degree or 2 degree.

I know this is some solid geekery but all this to say that if you choose to get other screws, perhaps screws that sit perfectly in the washer (and that doesn’t allow for this 1 or 2 degree movement), then maybe some of the screws will not sit perfectly flat on the enclosure. Also, we wanted all the screws to be all black (because aesthetics :wink: So that is the reason we used these specific countersunk Philipps M3 screws.

But by all means, if you do find another solution (other screws that would do), please share. This is one of the reasons why we offered the deck+enclosure at the community, to get your feedback and ideas and implement them.

Also, for those wondering, we used M3 and not M4 to keep the hole in the enclosure as small as possible as to maintain its integrity and strenght as much as we could. And after looking at the spec numbers, M3 could more than handle the weight so we went in that direction.

As for replacement, I should have sent you a couple extras right? Let me know if not and I’ll send you a couple in the mail.

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It’s all good, fortunately you provided 20 screws for 18 holes so I’m not in search of a replacement yet. As I said the screw just snapped and I still wonder why. It was pretty loose otherwise I would have had to dig a much deeper groove to get enough grip to get it out. Probably a bad apple as you said.

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Anyone know what sort of remote the DSS60 comes with?