Are many people using RKPs on a mountainboard build?
@SkaterBoy58 are you considering using a wedge? Not sure of the nose angle on the deck but MBS matrix trucks claim they want 30°
Are many people using RKPs on a mountainboard build?
@SkaterBoy58 are you considering using a wedge? Not sure of the nose angle on the deck but MBS matrix trucks claim they want 30°
The La Croix deck is designed for MBS trucks
Oh right on, I never saw that mentioned. Thanks
Shit right after I told him I didn’t like the design of the Lacroix hotdog deck… Time to eat some words I guess
Any reason you didnt get the mount with idlers?
they couldn’t fit on these V7.3 mounts with 72T wheel hub
See this thread for external BMS and Charging box build details.
I use those connectors for standard charging they are nice quality and waterproof too, I like your thinking
battery pack building continued first 10mm x 0.2mm nickel strip is spot welded directly to cells
second paralleling nickel strip has series connection solder blobs completed prior to spot welding to first nickel strip. Solder blobs are positioned for best current sharing position and not directly on top of a cell with a third small solder blob for balance lead connection.
then directly solder two series connections to each pack quickly with a hot iron ( at least 100W) . Laid out battery configuration with a few labels to avoid stuff-ups
The sides of each enclosure compartment have fish paper to avoid any issues with pack connections conducting through the carbon fibre. Each compartment has 2mm neoprene rubber on bottom for shock absorbance ( and another insulation medium) . The two 6 pack cells in a single compartment will have fish paper wedged between them ( another insulation medium )
the complete LHS of battery pack completed and in enclosure
with the RHS under construction on a timber board
with a bit of Kapton tape covering all exposed nickel strip and series connections for good measure.
The very front compartment has both a 6P and 5P flat packs due to much reduced clearance from deck. The additional cell for the 5P pack will sit in front of both packs with separate connection to the 5P pack.
The 11 balance wires will run down the centre of the enclosure in a loom to the back enclosure.
Rear Compartment planning rear compartment will contain Flipsky DUAL FSESC 6.6, all external sockets/switches , remote receiver and misc other small stuff.
Plan is to mount the Flipsky DUAL FSESC 6.6 on a thin aluminium plate
with the sockets/switches on both sides. Will have 2 pin weatherproof charging sockets on both sides sd13 2 pin weatherproof socket
so will need 12 pin socket , main XT-60 isolation plug, on/off switch , two charging sockets and a receiver binding switch ( to enable binding to a different remote without the hassle of opening enclosure)
One of the builders in the gang built some thin aluminium plates (to stick on inside of enclosure) to mount everything on. This will relieve the very thin carbon fibre enclosure of any stresses when unplugging any plugs from sockets.
Next bit of building is to fix neoprene rubber strips to the edge of the enclosure to provide clearance from bottom of deck to top of battery packs.
After a bit of group measuring, eye-balling and plasticine compression checking when battery packs placed in enclosure and deck fitted on top – settled on 4.5mm thick neoprene rubber strip 25mm wide. Link to Neoprene Strip
The neoprene rubber strip has the right hardness characteristic (won’t compress much), good sealing performance to keep out dust and has good UV resistance.
The foam rubber sealing strip that comes on the deck will sit nicely on the neoprene strip.
A strip template was made to get the curvature horizontal cut-outs right, enclosure holes marked and then punched.
Bolts were then placed through enclosure holes and up to strip to hold it in exact right position for gluing.
After a full trial fit – rubber strips were then glued on and clamped for glue setting (approx. 24 hours). Pegs and small clamps were the go to hold rubber strip down to enclosure between bolts.
Rinse and repeat for all three enclosures!
@moone was right you are the man! Love the remote cabling ideas so much I will probably steal them. Great build Can’t wait to see the finished article.
What are you taking between cell 6 & 7? Auxiliary 12V supply?
Max -If you want a LV supply for lights etc better off using a BEC step down converter with 42V input after you loop key
The wire on cell 6 is for the loose one cell paralell connection
Great work guys. You Aussies are legit!
now for rear compartment stuff update - aluminium plates were made for mounting the flipsky dual 6 vesc to bottom of enclosure
@Brucey0 (master craftsman) build some aluminium clamping brackets to fix flipsky dual 6 vesc to bottom aluminium plate . basically the rear and front small plates clamps onto the vesc heatsink and holds it in firmly place - very nice -
first job is to stick vesc aluminium plate to bottom on enclosure
then stick aluminium plate to enclosure bottom - many hands are better
then stick side aluminium plates to insides of enclosure and clamp in place for glue to set
rinse and repeat for all three enclosures
several days later after glue had set - time to make holes in side of carbon fibre enclosures - with a small pilot hole , then using glass and tile bit - drill larger hole - then finally made to size with a circular grinding paper bit on a dremel
then fit the stuff in the holes - and ready for final wire up
the XT-60 socket will be used as an isolation point on main +ve from battery
There are charging sockets on both sides of enclosure ( for versatility, redundancy and to power an external dc-dc converter for charging another board from battery pack)
A true source of inspiration! I love your attention to detail quickly, the following
Agreed this is all very masterful, detailed, well written and beautifully shot, you’re in with a shot for BOTY 2018/2019