looks good. massive charger… who cares… not like you have to ride with it on your board.
Yep, only thing was if I wanted to carry the charger with me… But I guess I could always bring an extra battery…
or buy a second smaller charger to keep at work …
Oh nice, yeah a 2A charger so it can charge during the day (@ 2A, should take ~4hrs to charge to full) and then the big charger at home. Good idea.
yep. Im full of them 
…or full of something…
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haha! alright, thanks!
Hey why don’t you try to put a boost converter into the space where you are trying to house the battery with a buck boost converter? if you carry around a laptop+laptop charger combo in a bag/backpack then chances are that you’ll have a 19ish volt power supply in that laptop charger. Since you need 42 volts to charge the battery, you can get a boost converter lie this one http://www.prodctodc.com/120w-dcdc-1032v-to-3560v-boost-converter-laptop-notebook-car-power-supply-p-58.html#.V4A3xbgrKhc and tune it to work with the specific voltage that your laptop charger is rated for. most all adjustable boost converters have little potentiometers that adjust the voltage output. that way you can have it inside the bord and have it charge at 42 volts whiles not having to worry about carrying around a secondary charger rated for 48 volts. just a thought!
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i use this one and bypass discharge, works fine ~e~use fuse
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its 6 of one half a dozen of the other mate.
im sorry im a little confused on what you mean.
you cant get something for nothing. ever. its a law of physics. so if you are using an inverter to up the voltage, it’s at a cost.
say you have a 24V 5A charger and you use an inverter to step up the voltage to 48V you will make your charger roughly 48V ~2.5A. the wattage of the charger can’t change.
so if you wanted to charge at 48V 5A you would need a 24V charger that can do roughly 10A.
so the size and cost of a 24V 10A charger is probably going to be more or less equivalent to a 48V 5A charger…
24V * 10A = 240W 48V * 5A = 240W
so if you have a 200W supply its only ever going to be a 200W supply regardless of how many Volts it outputs.
soo TLDR: having a small 48V 2.5A charger (stepped up) is the same as having a 24V 5A charger.
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also, that inverter sports some hefty heatsinks on it… which tells me it gets hot. so that heat energy has got to also come from somewhere (your charger) and I didn’t even bother to factor that into my equation. so if you lose say 5 Watts in heat then your 200W supply is lowered to a 195W supply which means you will get even less Amps out … therefore making the larger voltage supply more efficient anyway.
hello guys, i’m new to this but i’m trying to make a dummy battery to test a few things out and i wanted to know what BMS would you recommend for a Li-ion 6S4P 22V 11mAh battery? im going to salvage a few 18650 batteries to create a testing battery before going all out building an esk8… would really apreciate suggestions.
http://www.batterysupports.com/22v-24v-6s-60a-6x-36v-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-bms-pcm-pcb-p-478.html
or
http://www.bestechpower.com/222v6spcmbmspcbforli-ionli-polymerbatterypack/PCM-D223V1.html
Alright, sorry to correct but I believe you mean 11Ah battery, also a 6s battery seems a little small… Are you sure you want to build your own if you can just buy a pre made 6s battery? Battery supports has a good list of BMS systems. The capacity of the battery doesn’t really matter, just the voltage and such.
The number of cells in parallel (capacity) can be pretty important, but they should be fine on 4p.
thanks @Jinra!!! @michaeld33 i know is a small battery but its just for testing, after i test it ill go for a bigger one!!
Yes, you are correct, but for this circumstance he should be fine with most 6s bms’s Thanks for correcting me!
Can you explain further? without BMS, do you need extra care for the battery packs ?
Edit: @lowGuido nvm, I read the whole topic. 
Hi anyone know where I can learn to build BMS?