ICE CRUSHER | 16ply HOLYPRO | 4W chain drive MTB | 4x 6374 170kV APS | quad ESCAPE | Steering damper

ESK8 Builds
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I know that @sender made the same with his dark matter motors. I think it looks even better on his motors :sweat_smile: I really hate to work with epoxy :joy: I don´t know if he already had a time to take them for a ride but he said that they spin way much more silent and accurate after this modification.Aas min on the bench.

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Wow, thank you so much to write all this with the detailed process and photo Andy !! It’s awesome !!! I will do this on my APS 8072 for sure :wink: :+1: For now, I don’t have any question or misunderstanding :slight_smile: (I haven’t watched the video yet but I think I will need to do some on the stator too). Hop, Ice Crusher Bookmarked! Looking forward to your updates !!

Big Up Andy :v:

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Thx! The video is super detailed. With it you will know exactly what to do and how to do it. Good luck with your APS8072.

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Awesome write up! I was going to, but I will just be linking this instead!

Bookmarked!

Thanks @Andy87

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I hope I didn´t forgot anything. If you have a time I would be happy if you could post here 1-2 of your pictures. Your motors look way much batter made than mine.

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20181208_181323 20181216_095519 20181216_095515 20181216_090939 20181216_084014

Here are a few. I thought I had more, but I can’t find em

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looks very good! thx!

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Great thread thanks, gonna try this battle hardening

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Should have updated this… it’s already a pretty long time ago since I was driving last time. I had to wait super long for the replacement bell and vacation and other things just didn’t gave me a lot of free time. But let’s update some things I done on the board since the last time. I removed all cans and battle harden them. I also fixed the phase wires with epoxy on the place where they leave the motor.

On my last ride I had the issues that one of the xt90 plugs came lose. That could happen as the wires from the battery to the vesc box are pretty tight and fixed on the bindings. The movement of my foot caused the xt90 to get slightly lose which resulted in a power reduction of the back motors. As i didn’t wanted to make new cables I made one xt90s extension plug. Easy peasy and problem should be solved with it.

  • this place is left free for pictures when I can upload again :sweat_smile: *

I also cleaned the chains. They now shiny and smooth like new :relieved:

Over time one tire lost air. Seems to be a very small leakage as the tire hold a good pressure for about a week after filling it up. Need to see how that goes when I drive more often. Luckily I have a spare inner tube on hand, just in case.

So, all in all the board is ready to go again. Just need to find a time to take it out.

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man great content! I will do it to the motor I am making. They are already disassembled so easy peasy. Whihc epoxy do you suggest for doing it? A high temperature one I guess.

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I bought epoxy which used for motor parts in cars etc. It’s local Russian production :sweat_smile: so i can’t tell you any European equivalent. Just take care that it’s not too fluent. It’s not nice to work with if it is. Best consistency is like warm peanut butter :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: Like this it’s flowing nice in the gaps and you can easy take away the epoxy which came on the magnets. 5min dry time is optimal. 3-4 gaps, clean up everything, wait 2min than go on with the next 3-4 gaps.

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What about using an insert and a low viscosity epoxy and ‘cast’ the magnets and wires into solid blocks? I imagine it has better grip and weight balance

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Perfect I will look for one that can work up to 100^C

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I don’t exactly get what you mean with use an insert. If you fill the gaps between the magnets you have the same amount of epoxy everywhere. No way that the bell get out of balance. If the epoxy is on top of the magnets you made something wrong and the motor will probably even don’t move anymore. If you fill the stator with epoxy it doesn’t really matter either as the stator isn’t rotating.

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Is it important to be not conducive epoxy? Ie epoxy for auto often has a metallic content

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Are motor magnets and the bell conductive? :thinking: The epoxy I used isn’t conducive, but even if it would be I don’t think it would matter as the phase wires isolated. In this case just don’t use it to cover the sensor pins and the pcb, but between the magnets it shouldn’t matter.

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What say you to using this? potting compound, safe to 150c but viscosity is low meaning I think I will need to mix it with something else in order that is does not dribble

https://ie.farnell.com/mg-chemicals/832hd-25ml/chemical-potting-compound-25ml/dp/2889758

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Data sheet looks good besides two facts.

  1. it’s out of stock till May
  2. it has a cure time of 24h at room temperature

Like this you can fill probably 3-4 gaps than you need to wait 1 day, than the other gaps. I would look for epoxy with a cure time of 5-10min.

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Thanks, the potting compound is good to have but your advice is sensible, the viscosity should be high otherwise filler like glassfibre beads is needed to thicken the mix. Waiting a day between turning the bell a few degrees to glue some more channels is not an option unless you are an ent.

I’ll look again

I went through a few different ones and settled on this https://ie.farnell.com/mg-chemicals/9200-25ml/chemical-structural-adhesive-25ml/dp/2889759