Has anyone tried to drill a hole in the deck? 
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nope I’m too afraid. Waiting for one of us to do it first.
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Me too. lol I don’t wanna drill a hole in the wrong point…
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Hahaha same someone balls up 
Hahaha pussies!
Finished my build this weekend 
Drilling the holes was super scary though. The enclosure is about a centimeter thick, so to fit the buttons and motor grommets I had to dremel out quite a bit around the holes as well. And as you can see in the pic I scratched the paint a bit with the dremel as well.
I started with a 2mm drillbit and worked my way up with 2mm intervals to a 12mm one, then dremeled out the rest of the holes very slowly, trying to fit in the button every so often. The board is a bit to dirty for more pictures now, so you’ll have to wait for those untill I’ve found time to clean it 
.
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Im planning to only drill holes for the phase wires. Everything else is gonna be on the aluminum. can we see the inside and where your phase wires comes out?
Sure:
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That’s really helpful!
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@NAF are you going to be making anymore of these? I’m guessing not considering it’s been a massive ball ache but I think I’d like one!
Yes, I know, late to the party collecting the little scraps at the table…
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What motor mount are you using
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I’m running with Maytech black hubs for maximum stealth, and a 10s3p batterypack with BMS on top.
Hey @NAF, after riding around on it for about a week the lid won’t close anymore, it just pops out of the button everytime 
. Any way to fix this or can you send me a new button or something?
@seikeau Don’t worry brother it is easy to fix. It has nothing to do with the button. It’s normal that it might need some recalibration after some time of riding because the gaskets has to adjust. So here is the thing…you need to loosen up the the screw that is keeping the main STUD. After you loosen it up you need to turn the stud just a little tiny bit counter clock wise so it goes slightly up…than you need to titghten up the screw back again. That’s it. I would say that you probably need around 1/2 of the turn…or maybe less …about 1/4 of the turn.
It’s just a matter of about 1mm or 0.5mm for the stud to go up…so you can close the lid. It’s all about finding the right height for the stud. Just be prepared that if you pull out the stud too much the lid might not want to open at all. But don’t worry . Just press the button on and use thin kitchen knife in between the lid to lever it up. Once you get the feel for how to do it it’s going to be easy for you.
The rule is:
- if the lid doesn’t close there is not enough stud sticking out - so you need to pull it up counter clock wise.
- if it doesn’t open there is too much of the stud sticking out - so it needs to go down a tiny bit clock wise. ( use kitchen knife to slightly help it to open )
Always remember that the lid needs to be calibrated super tight. You need to apply pressure with your thumbs next to the button to close it.
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Thanks very much! That was it indeed 
. Although it was quite a bit of trying and error, it feels more secure then ever now.
Also @NAF, couldn’t thank you enough for making this awesome deck. It is a pleasure to ride! The lock-in with your feet is just super natural. And the button actually makes a great foot-stop of sorts. You just instantly feel where your front foot is on the board. The only downside I could mention is that it is so heavy it makes the kicktail a bit hard to use. Especially with the relatively heavy battery in the front.
The wheel wells are a godsend too! I have 0.5mm risers just because you adviced us to do so, but I don’t think I’d even need them even with my 90mm wheels.
Also pretty much no one suspects my board to be electric when they see it, super stealthy
Thanks!
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Got one of these that goes from 6mm up will it work
I’d start with a normal 2mm wood drill to Pierce the vectran first. It is really tough material. Then maybe even a 4 mm drill and then go with the stepped bit.
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I wish I had wanted to build an e-skate earlier, this board is awesome… to bad @NAF isn’t making more i would totally be down for one.
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