I just show this as an example of a way to add some flex. between the p groups the strip takes a bend down the side. Unless a pack is designed to flex it seems like trouble.
if any of you are good at design (im slow as shit) we should work together on a design I’ll print and then make a silicone mold from and then we can form resin in the board cavity to conform to each cell N.E.S.E style. shaping and adding the copper and foam is easy and then probably print plates that would bolt into the hardened resin with inserts or something. maybe add the inserts later or be sweet to have them set into the resin if the mold were done nicely. and that would be a solution with so many benefits. you could bottom out…its all solid. flex. …benefits galore and dont have to drill the deck
As per @Hummie 's request. this is what I am doing for the enclosure. This is a MDF mold for vacuum forming. Inspired by @bigben. basically almost the same but the fender washers will sit inside those pockets.
Edit:
the top is the exact size as the cutout. 1/2" tall, 45 degrees on the length, and a less sloped on the width. 1/2" skirt.
im only 150lb so there isnt too much flex when I hop on the deck. Also there’s gona be weather seal between the enclosure and the deck so not much curves needed. GF CF… that’s way out of my league. I’m probably just vacuum form ABS, PETG, or other plastic (I dont really know other alternative cheap plastic).
We will see tmr.
Do you have a deck to get the shape or are you going to make a straight one and pull it to shape with the bolts? If you can you’d be best pre shaping it and not building in stress points.
this is my first time using the wood CNC. so it is going to be flat piece pulled into shape with 10x M6 fender washers to tapping threaded insert in the board.
if I find it difficult to fit or too much stress on the plastic. then I can make a new mold to fit like a glove. now that i’m more familiar with the machine.
I think making it flat might actually be better since the deck bows up in the middle with no weight and depend of how much you weight flexes the other way. Yeah, I am very glad that my college built this makerspace with a lot of experienced staffs.
@hummie I would be down for some testing. I tried at compression fitting with a borrowed 3d printer before buying the bad ass spot welder. Didn’t go very well. Now that I bought a CR10 and have been playing with it all summer, I would like to give it another shot.
it seems like almost everyone has a horror story with spot welding or soldering cells.
this would be making a long silicone mold out of glued-together prints. the silicone would be the length and height of the deck hole. fill deck partially with resin and then insert the silicone to form it into place where it will give support to the cells and fixins and then plates bolted over top.
i dont know what your design relied on but with the Poron foam (think thats what @agniusm is using) …its easily doable. so many benefits with compression vs other methods.
Yeah this makespace is awesome. Flex on enclosure is perfect. completed with weather seal. I will make another one and try to not make any wrinkles this time.
