HUB vs BELT - Whats the latest?

Yeah definitely with taller gearing the brakes and acceleration are smoothed out so it’s not as twichy, twichy is good lol. Would definitely be less efficient on hills I wonder if it be similar whr/mile for flatland cruising

@TheCheat No offense, but your over thinking it a bit. If you try my board, I don’t think you would against the wide contact patch. It works quite well :slight_smile:

Sometimes, you just gota ride to see what feels best…

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No doubt in my mind you know what you’re talking about. After all you actually ride the board. Too bad im not in SF would have loved to see it in person.

I need to finish a chemistry lab report in a couple hours and I havent slept :joy:

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I thought I would continue this here and not clog up the GB thread😉

OMG @scepterr this is going to dig the hole even deeper. These are neither hub nor belt :scream:

Lol yes , it’s half on-topic here, not really on-topic in the GB thread. My same proposal works for hubs too… 2wd front hub, 2wd rear belt…what happens

Probably time we made a thread for planning what to do with all the speed drives. What a great day, to need something like that at the end of it.

I read somewhere, who knows where, that someone had a high gearing and a low gearing on a dual belt drive and they actually liked it but I don’t know where that was. So I’d imagine it being like that, except twice as many motors. It’d be great if it could intelligently move more power to the belts at slow speeds and to the carvons at high speeds

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I believe @Nowind had that mixed kv setup

I’m actually more curious if you can leave the front 2wd hub or direct without a control signal but everything powered and connected and get usable power from it, either charge battery and/or supplement current draw? Reattach control signal when you want 4wd…

@chaka what do you think about this scenario?

I think you can send them an idle signal but I think no signal and they will be acting like a generator and dump power into the mosfets (speculation as usual).


Edit guess if it goes to timeout and idles itself then no problem too.

You can use Nicos app and set the power differential front to rear 0%/100%, no need to set up a manual switch. Since the front vescs will still be ON it would still charge from rolling on the front motors as well. However, since heat loss increases exponentially with increased torque supplied by the rear motors and the conversion of kinetic energy to electrical energy(charging) is less than 100% efficient,1 I think you’d have minimal efficiency gains if any and more likely losses from the increased rolling resistance and weight of the extra motors that are just coasting. I can do some tests with my 4wd and let you know though.

I’ll check out Nicos, sounds awesome. If you could give this a test that would be great, I won’t get to till January :wink: I think this would be more effective if running a torquey rear belt setup with hub or direct front vs all hub or direct

I honestly don’t know how much current can be generated if 2 are coasting while 2 are driving…

Will do.

Agreed, but never wanted to turn off my front wheels since going 4wd. Maybe on the gear drive board Im finishing up though.

LMAO just realized “Nico” is @Ackmaniac

No it was not me :kissing_closed_eyes:

nah @lowguido has the mixed kv setup I think

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Can’t argue with that. Real wheels must make a difference.

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Or, you can swap boards and do it over again, each one in the other environment with a different rider. If one wins both, it’s better. If neither wins both, we haven’t learned anything.

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Performance: SPD1 tested the best boards in the country for Speed, Quickness and a combination of turning ability and acceleration. Hard facts are. Gear drive is top on speed. Direct Drive is top on Acceleration. Belt Drive with pneumatics is top on turn/accel. Sorry hub guys. Your gonna have to bring it to SPD2 and try to make your mark. As for now your close, but not there yet!:checkered_flag:

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