Buy FOCBOX Unity

Hoyt Puck Remote Group Buy [ENDED]


Honesty, anyone who sells a known defective product and doesn’t disclose it (I know this isn’t what you said): Fuck You.

Not everyone has the same disposable income. Not everyone can spend that disposable income the same way.

As to you, I’ll be sure to quote this if you ever ask for if a product works before purchasing in the future :smiley:


Definitely not true. I tend to try and make my money worth what I paid for. Buying and then reselling a used product equals less money. Basically burning cash that’s not necessary in the first place.

This has happened to all my remotes minus the GT2B. All of my Nano-X’s don’t pair if my boards have been sitting in the cold. I’ve been known to take a hair dryer to my enclosure where my receiver is located for a few minutes. Works like a charm. Once its paired, it’s good to go. I think this has something to do with the crystal freezing or something.


Y’all know I love the community!! I’m just having a bad day at work n need to argue with someone. I mean any one :joy::joy:
You guys are right. It’s better to ask before you buy! Honestly. My Hoyt pucks have been flawless since day one!! Good purchase.


I gotchu bro:

Waffles only need syrup. Anything else is an abomination.


What about fried chicken n waffles? It doesn’t sound right to me but people love eating them? Lol



10 Jasons


Agreed :joy: 10char


From a personal point of view the remote should be the highest quality component on the entire build and priced to suit. We put up with cheap solutions and cry if they are over 100 bucks. I do not understand this reasoning. In every other form of rc and this can be described as rc, (cue @b264) a decent remote costs a lot of money. My futaba cost over 400 and for a unit that does not cut out and has decent range thats the accepted cost. A lost connection means a lost race. A lost connection while hurtling down the street on a plank of wood at 40mph can have far more devastating consequences. I for one would pay any amount to have that peace of mind.


Haha. I get that. Good to know you’re not turning into one of those “Just buy it and tell us…” dickheads. :slight_smile:


Definitely agree with this. Thank god my boy @DerelictRobot has some crazy remote stuffz going on now in his esk8 dungeon. :slight_smile:


Lmao. No. At least not at the moment!! But. One thing that I do have is. If I like it and can afford it I just buy it! That’s me :man_shrugging:t2:


He does and we’re all very excited by it. Me I’m just generally excited by @DerelictRobot


Tell me about it. When I’m at his house, I lock up when he starts talking about making humanoids and other crazy shit. It gets deep!


Do you do on-road or off-road rc? Been doing on-road 10th scale since '06.


Kind of lost interest for the last couple of years be honest but when I was racing it was buggies and then short course stuff. Local club stuff only though.


@FranciscoV I will be the first to jump on stuff when I have some experience, not offended or upset at your comments and I look forward to being a part of this community and hopefully riding with a handful of you throughout the years. I fully agree with @dareno about the remote being a crucial part of these boards to hopefully keep me from face planting due to a dropped signal. I have been following the feather remote and now the new ones by @DerelictRobot and I absolutely look forward to using them in the future.

I hope your day goes better.


anyone ran into an issue where it goes full throttle no problem in mode one but goes full throttle in mode 2 and 3 and then just stops after a few seconds? I’m using the focbox unity with remote calibrated. Tested on bench. No fault codes.

This was tested on the default throttle curve and -100% and 100% Polynomial Throttle Curve

@Sender edited


Please elaborate, what is your throttle curve?

Also, I don’t exactly understand your phrasing about what is occurring


Here’s a video and METR log to illustrate what’s going on:

Mode 1: Perfect no issues throttling to the max

Mode 2: Throttle to the Max then uncommanded ramp down

Mode 3: Throttle to the Man then uncommanded ramp down


my guess is you did the remote calibration in mode 1 (beginner mode i assume)
the other 2 modes have a greater pulse width, thus when you go full throttle, the ppm overshoots and the vesc thinks it’s an error.

redo your pulse width min-max in while in the other modes, or find the mode that has the greatest pulse width range