How to Open Enertion Motor?

Hello, my friend was cruising and apparently something got stuck inside the motor and it wont move. I can rotate it and u hear its scrapping agains something preventing from moving. Anyone knows how to open this motors? Thanks

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It could be an object like a rock or a piece of metal…worst case it’s a magnet that came off

You have to use circlip pliers to remove the circlip on the shaft. Then you should be able to pull it apart.

Can you provide pictures of which one spefically to take out? Thanks

All of them

You will feel some resistance when you pull the can off the stator. Be careful not to pinch your fingers if you let go, they can snap back together with some force.

I have some of them but I didn’t finish the process

First there are some shots of the motor, in this case I insulated only one wire with heatshirnk, instead of all of them.

Save some time, 30m or more if you’re not comfortable soldering ^^

1 - assuming you already got out the motor from your mount and you already took off the pulley and all the other circlips, you need to take off the motor circlip as shown ( probably the curved tip for the circlips plier is better than the one I’m using :smiley: ):

2 - out… … remove the golden ring thing (washer) as well

3 - If you apply some force you can see that the motor stator (the motor core, the piece with the copper wires moves inside the motor can (the other piece)

4- be sure that the cables are not in the way and find the best possible point where your hands grip, one on the can and one on the stator

apply a lot of force and puuuullll :smiley:

5 - Well done you now have a stator, pull off the heatshring, remove the bullet connectors (desolder/cut the wire soldered on them, at the end you’ll need to resolder them, that’s the longest part of this process at the end, especially if you don’t have the right tools, like a third hand or something to hold the bullet connector and the cables when they’re hot and you want to solder them back together) - I use only a pair of pliers but a third hand is usually cheap (5-10 bucks?).

6 - now that you took off the bullet connectors make the wire go all the way trough the hole where they come from

make sure when doing this that you remember the positioning of the wires, they’ll probably fit better back in their original position, after applying the heatshrink on them

7 - apply heatshrink

8 - all the step back until the motor is re-assembled

sorry no photos for 7+ step :smiley: maybe someone else can add them :stuck_out_tongue: , I was a bit surprised because this motor was in very good condition and only one of the wires needed heatshrink a bit, not all three of them and that alone let me think the motor was mostly ok and there was no point in continuing taking pics, it was probably better to continue :D. The motor that I have re-heat-shrinked works flawlessly and is used in my MKV#2 build (has 80+ miles on it)

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How are those 3 phase wires suppose to be like within the motor? I am 95% sure I have a short when I’m riding it would brake all of a sudden. I am changing out a motor at the moment and would like to know how those 3 wires suppose to look like or correctly insulated. All i see from my motor is the 3 copper wires wrapping around inside and how is it NOT suppose to short if there’s nothing insulating them? I’ll take some pictures shortly. I don’t have a C-Clip tool to remove it as well :frowning:

In the first batches from enertion these were not isolated properly. You’ll have to add some heatshrink to them all the way to where they actually enter the coils. Otherwise vibrations will get the best from the isolation that’s sprayed on them and shorts will appear regularly.

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Ah that makes sense! So those exposed wires within are coated! Duh! I have 2 R-Specs and 1 is shorting. The other is brand new. I’ll try to rework them both. Thank you @Skitzor

Update: How long does each heatshrink have to be really to get to the “end” on the motor’s stator? I’ve just taken it apart and would like to ask before I proceed cutting the bullets.

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To add to this guide I tend to just bolt the motor mount back on when I want to pull it apart (after circlips are all off) as it gives you plenty to grip and found it much easier and much safer :slight_smile:

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can someone post a pic of proper heat shrinking on a motor they got working again? I’m pretty sure I vibrated mine enough to short the motor. I went over brick walkway with motor mount loose and I am rapidly braking myself.

Thanks guys.

But there is a gold ring that looks to be 1 entire piece. E can’t remove it… how did you do? I need to replace the bearings of the motor. It makes an aufultra sound

If you mean that spacer between circlip and bearing you can just pull it away…

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2 more questions: How can I pulled away the 2 bearings of the motor. And it’s possible to put a hall sensor?

I don’t know about hall sensor but you need extractor if you wanna change bearings. Not sure how to do it with 2 bearings next to each other.

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