I never tried actual hydro dipping but i did a ‘poor man’s method’ which worked for me, basically spray paint sprayed onto a water surface, and it makes a very abstract oil look. I’ll see if i can replicate that and perhaps add that in.
1 Like
Been printing for quite some time now, but this will help take it to a new level. Thanks for the comprehensive writeup.
Will try some of your tips.
1 Like
Hey @Linny, great post! Your Plasti Dip finish looks so damn nice. I tried it couple of times (not on 3D prints though) but wasn’t able to get anything near that! Can I ask what primer are you using?
2 Likes
I tried out your plasti dip technique on my master cho enclosure without smoothing the print and it actually turned out quite nice. Feels super grippy and nice in my hand
2 Likes
anyone selling versions of these already done?
Sorry for the late reply! I use the Rustoleum Filler Primer and their normal gray primer. As long as it’s sandable, it’ll do.
1 Like
Don’t think so, but it’s so easy to do! 
1 Like
Okay, i’ve got another finishing method but it’s spray paint related. Do smooth the print slightly with sandpaper first or follow any of the above steps that is not the Plastidip.
Here’s what i did with the Photon remote. I removed the Plastidip as it can be peeled away if you dig in with your fingernail very hard. And that’s one of the issues. It’s a nice rubbery and grippy surface, but in terms of durability, it’s not the best. Hence i recommend this next technique.
The ‘sediment spray’ technique. I just came up with it i know right?
Well, omit the green splatters if you want, it’s mainly for aesthetics. Ok here’s the rundown, similar to the Plastidip, coat #1 is a light coat. Coat 2 and 3 are normal spray coats. Coat 4 and 5, are to be sprayed 2 or 3 feet away from the piece, and evenly spray from all angles. Note that this will use up a lot more paint than usual. The trick here is to get the paint mists to form sort of like a fine powder, and have it adhere to the painted surface.
And finally on the last coat, do one light coat normally like coat #1, so the ‘powdered’ surface gets a little wet from the final spray and bonds together to form a slightly rough but grippy surface. If not, the surface will feel very powdery and the paint dust will just get all over your hands.
For this method i recommend Krylon’s spray paint.
It works extremely well on plastic and does not require a primer, because it is a paint and primer! It sticks like a champ and will not peel. I’ve tried to violently scratch the painted surface and has shown no signs of peeling or burnish.
If you’d like to follow the green splatters, use the same brand if possible so there’s no adhesion problem due to incompatibility, and the method for that is to spray the paint into a disposable cup, and use a popsicle stick or chopsticks and flick it over gracefully to get the splatters. You will notice that the splatters will be a tad bit thicker on the remote, so it’s up to your preference.
If everything is done right, you will get a very nice paint surface that is both durable, and grippy.
I like this method the most so far, and i plan to peel off the Plastidip on my other trigger remote as well and paint that green with red splatters soon.
4 Likes
Really nice. I don’t dig the splatters but the spray paint job is looking awesome. Perhaps some experienced EU members could chime in with paint/filler/primer alternatives that we can get here because many of the options mentioned are either hard to source in EU or very expensive to ship.
1 Like
!!! Awesome, just like will be the build 
Beautifull work mate 
1 Like
Thank you! I just remembered this thread exists.
I have a couple new methods i think would be good to add here. I’ll get to it this week.
2 Likes
My friend @nuttyjeff is in the midst of getting his mini remote mod made, and handed me a few casings the other day. I used the body filler method as i wanted to add some bulk around the edges as it’s a 45 degree chamfer than a round edge. As it’s a relatively simple shape, it’s easier to sand. 
A couple coats of primer after sanding them smooth
Sprayed the first one a fluorescent green.
And comes a metallic look that i’m trying out. The gist is basically an undercoat of black, then silver, and then candy color of choice. Candy colors are transparent, so the silver underneath will show, giving a metallic look. I did a red and emerald green for Jeff’s and mine.
Heh it’s almost the same color as my Calibers!
Finish with a few coats of clear coat to protect the color and it’s done! I noticed that between a matte and a gloss clear coat, gloss seems to have better grip and will stick to your hand better than matte.
7 Likes
I have been looking to get this spray for the longest time. It’s a two part truck bed liner spray, similar to Line-x, that indestructible spray.
I got the Samurai Paint brand as it originated from my neighboring country and was able to get it locally from a distributor. Check out the durability test which they did!
I bought a few cans for myself and a few friends, and decided to spray it on all of my enclosures. All of my enclosures are fiberglass and normal paint is still prone to scratches, so this spray is the most suitable for enclosures.
It has a rocky texture, but is not rough like sandpaper, so it provides traction, since it’s used on trucks to prevent cargo from sliding. Hence i thought it’ll be good for a remote as well.
I like it, some may not like it as it might look like asphalt haha. If you would like to protect your enclosures and give your remotes some traction, this spray is the best candidate.
Keywords to search would be ‘truck bed liner’.
5 Likes
Thanks for the tips once again Linny !
It seems to be really nice and effective, I like the grip looking, kind of cool 
2 Likes
i did the lime green remote will definitely be modding my china remote when it shows up like so !
2 Likes
Do you first paint and put all the nice goodies on the enclosure? Or first assemble and then the rest?
I install the enclosure on the deck and check alignment is all good. Once it’s all done I remove everything from the enclosure to spray
What do people use as a top coat? Is the paint good enough?
Paint itself should do fine, but if it gets scratched the paint will get scratched off. The top coat protects the paint more. The brand of paint you get from should have a topcoat as well. Lacquer or clear coat are words to look for.
Good spray can brands are Rustoleum and Krylon
1 Like