I have solved the wii ceiver drop outs by soldering the nunchuck reciever dongle direct to the board. no more drop outs.
Nice @ lowGuido. I’ll keep that in mind. Do you have your Wiiceiver set away from your motor wires?
GT2B is 100% rock solid. I need to make a new badwolf enclosure that doesn’t require any soldering or re-positioning any components.
Hey Torque - i think this is doable w/ a bit of ingenuity. I think you could knock out a square’ish hole for the USB charging port to stick out the back bottom of the case. It would probably poke your palm if you have a death grip, but perhaps a small piece of sugru to mold it would probably work!
The desolder and reposition of the USB charging port was definitely the hardest part for me. With some desolder wick and practice it shouldn’t be too hard. I just suck at desoldering i think.
Don’t forget lots and lots of hot glue! Mine is not going anywhere, anytime soon…
Hey sl33py, I think that the white wire is the data cable. I might be wrong but maybe it delivers the signal when channel 3 is clicked?
@lox897 - yes, that makes sense. Two wires from battery, then 3 from CH3 switch (in grip handle) to the power plug on PCB.
When i saw Badwolf use 3 wires on his v1 setup, i simply mirrored that on this v2 setup. The desoldered USB Mini-B charging port has 3 wire leads to connect to. Unsure what the 3rd wire is used for, but it doesn’t hurt to have it from my experience (charging fine). Likely not needed though.
Here’s the v1 image i saw that showed the 3 wires used for the USB charging port:
how do you guys using the GT2B go about cruising? is it easy enough to hold a consistent speed? maybe my next build will use a GT2B.
Definitely easy to cruise. While you don’t have a “cruise control” button like wiiceiver, i haven’t had issue holding a steady speed on my longer 6-9mi cruises. BUT that is with a fair number of people traffic so quite a bit of slowing down and re-accelerating as well.
Even if you don’t convert into the smaller badwolf enclosure, the GT2B is a fantastic Tx!
I have two GT2B controllers, one wii receiver, and two boards.
the wii receiver has been used a few times, but the GT2B is just solid- the only negative being size, which still, isn’t too bad. Not only is it still easy to maintain a cruising speed, but I just feel like the throttle inputs are much more precise and less jerky. You also don’t have to worry about pairing it, or the signal cutting out… it just plain works.
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ditto on all of that. I love my GT2B. Even on hour and a half cruises at lower speeds its no problem. Also, its tough. I’ve dropped mine i don’t know how many times and have even broken it, but its easy to fix when it does break and it takes quite a beating to break it.
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i just uploaded the v2 models from Thingiverse into Shapeways and it looks like its about $50 to have all three pieces printed there in strong, polished plastic. For those of us without access to a 3D printer, that’s not a terrible deal, especially since you can get it in just about any color you want, though they seem to have slightly different prices for colors than for black or white, but it only varies by about a dollar. That puts you at about $70 or $80 total if you include the price of the remote itself.
You can also get your Bad Wolf in stainless steel for about $150 if you so desire. Or even porcelain for around $70 if you want to print one for grammy’s curio. They do different materials for the switch because its a smaller size, so don’t be afraid to drop $430 on an 18k Gold switch if you just have to have that bling. lol
Importantly, USPS First Class shipping looks to be about $5 for these parts. This is certainly one case where they’ve got UPS Ground beat by a large margin.
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I did the same for my last two (i have 3 now). I go the polished strong plastic as well. Nice matte look. Unfortunately i don’t think it’s as thick as one i got just doing cheap-o PLA from 3dhubs. Much nicer finish, but thinner walls and the screw holes sucked to hold it together. Ended up ghetto gluing it together so if it ever breaks it’ll be a PITA to get into and fix. But looks good in orange and pink matte.
I’d really love to see a v3 with thicker walls throughout. Sturdy and make the screw holes more secure.
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question to you guys that are stateside, how much is a nyko karma delivered?
I have a couple. Typically around $10 on ebay shipped. Might need a little searching but that was my going rate a while back.
far out… cost me like $40 AUD to get one here…
on topic… has anyone tried vacuum molding ABS into a shape like bad wolf’s box?
I may try something soon.
i’ve been thinking a lot about that. It would take some trimming/finishing work to get it all straight, but the electronics are so rock solid reliable that I’m not even sure you really ever need to crack open the case, so things like screw posts likely aren’t even necessary when you can just spot-hot-glue or plastic weld the thing together. You could always crack it open again with a dremel.
I was thinking nylon nuts/botls straight through the case… I cant imagine 3D printed screw posts lasting too long anyway.
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OKP did a gorgeous hand laid CF case for his! It’s a work of art. He put in screw retainers as well to secure it. Great work and i’m just lazy with my 3d printed Badwolf enclosures…
1yeah i saw that too. I was thinking about making a carbon fibre case if i ever go the gt2b route
Hey @lowGuido do you have a pic of the Nyko Kama receiver soldered to the PCB of wiiceiver? I keep trying to picture this and I can’t figure it out…