How much current can nickel strip handle?

don’t just layer nickel on top of nickel. do some tests.

i’ve noticed a nickel to steel (cell) weld is far stronger than a nickel to nickel weld. i’ve had to redo a whole set of welds because a 2nd layer of nickel, after time, just started falling off on its own. i was using a sunkko 709a.

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I will weld just on to it and then press everything with that ultra duct tape wich is used for paraschutes as i have it around

I’m not sure what type of duct tape you use but normally duct tape performs extremely poorly when it gets warm.

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Im assuimg that batteries wont go over 40 degrees and thats not hot for me, didnt have much experience with duct tape in those conditions

I second this… For some reason the nickel doesn’t weld to itself very well so I use heavier nickel in the first place. My series welds (mostly because I need a flexible pack for Evolve boards) are all done with 10awg silicone wire which can easily handle the current.

I advise using the widest nickel strip you can for your series welds, 15/18mm 0.2mm strips should be sufficient for esk8.

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Or u could solder 1\4 the amount of the nickel n use copper sheet n get same conductance

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I’m convinced literally everyone is mega overdoing it. I hardly have anything real to back this up I just have never heard of anyone ever burning up strips due to not being able to handle current.

One strip of .15 thick for me. And it’s a 13S4P pack that’ll pull prob 45-50a at bursts lol

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This is pretty much what I follow

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=68005

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Not gunna melt or burn up but probably will make the cells last a shorter time from the heat. The link above is a classic.

Easy solution just solder on some 10 gauge multi strand wire on top of the nickel the rc stuff problem solved.

And the cells overheated.

Don’t do that, if spot welding is used it’s to avoid overheat.

Yea that can be a case sometimes like when choosing materials, people use aircraft grade aluminium for a motor mount lol

Proably will do that if the nickel wont weld to itself, but I think I ran out of solder

It’s not precise according to what I recall. If you connect each battery in a cell to the series connection point that will be ok(for example if you have 4p you will have to connect each cell 4 times to the series connection point). Since we are talking about one strip of nickel for a cell and assume you take the series connection point in the end of every cell, all the current will flow through the nickel strip at the point of connection to the last battery of the cell(where the series point is) The first battery nickel strip connection though will handle 1/4 of the current and the second one 2/4 and so(assuming 4p). Therefor you should have enough conduction in each cell as for the series ones. Nice bed time story :slight_smile:

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i’ve ben using 10mm x 0.2mm nickel on my 12S5P all year. How you stack your cells is just as important as what/how much nickel you use because you don’t need two layers of 10x0.2 if you’re bridging the series connections with two parallel rows of nickel that are bridged with each other using short strips.

that’s for a non-flexible tightly packed battery though. for evolve packs and other single layer packs i use either 12awg or 14awg 1" jumpers between twin P groups for flexibility.

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When you say short bursts of 40-50 amps, why so low? What are you drawing at a constant?

Ah I was only referring to one esc. The most I ever saw on my dual 6374 12S setup was 47A x 2 or 94A. Mind you that was for only a split second.

My new build is all the same hardware but 13S instead of 12S so my amp draw will be a bit less anyhow.

I’ll report back and see if it gets hot. I’m thinking it’ll be fine

@long haired boy what’s your take? Think I’ll be A OK or will I die a firey death?

Im using the diagram wich the moderator posts dont know wich let me find the link

This one http://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/3X/1/9/1981de739604e2d86da82ea20a8c3d56e60e5876.jpeg

I just have 1 layer everywhere and didnt even made the terminals double layer also it was a pain in the ass to solder on the nickel I had to use a flame powered soldering iron…

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Do you have a picture of you using the 12 or 14 guage wire?

Are you saying to solder copper wire to some nickel strips and then weld those strips to the battery? What size wire would you recommend for 2 motors rated at max 95 amps each?