Honey Driver | Honey Velocity v3 deck | Caliber II's | 83mm Evolve GT wheels | Dual OM5065 200kv | Space Cell Pro4 | DIY pulleys/Enertion pulley | Bones Super Reds | Enertion mounts | Winning remote | Chaka VESCs - **BUILD COMPLETE!**

@sl33py thanks for this. Apparently Caliber II 10" come with a cone-barrel 89a bushing. I guess that explains my issue.

How does bushing shape affect your turning? Seems like one way or another I need some new bushings. cheers!

After a weekend of riding, I can confidently say my cut out issues have been solved. Thinking back I think some of the issues were due to the CAN cable coming loose, I just gave up trying to position them just right and soldered them on with some heatshrink. Added ferrite rings for the CAN cable, receiver cable, and front sensor wires for good measure.

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Sorry for the thread hijack @Jinra! Great build and love the pics of your setup w/ canbus.

@t1m0007 - a huge difference. Depending on the setup i usually do a barrel or elim on bottom (board side), and a lighter weight duro on top for a bit easier turn, but the high rebound duro bushings really help bring it back to center easily. Top i go barrel or cone if i want a lot easier turn.

that and carrying a skate tool so that as you get going faster you can stop and tighten down if too loose. Not much of an issue on a skateboard, but i’ve found that really helpful on e-boards where the speed range is so much bigger (cruising at 5-10mph vs hauling ass at 20+ - all on the same setup).

Bad news! Soldering the CAN cable worked well… too well. The cable ended up bending my CAN pins from being stuck in that small enclosure and it ripped off two whole pins on the slave VESC! I’ve now given up on the CAN and am using my second PWM output on my receiver to go direct into the second VESC, hope this works out better :slight_smile:

2 rows for 2 PWM signals! (No worries that ferrite ring is now properly insulated and added some padding on the receiver so the ring doesn’t smack it)

Also, one of my OM5065 motors has been giving off a weird scratchy sound when it spins. I ordered another one from chaka as a replacement and backup and will get this one fixed/replaced!

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Oh, also hit 31mph today with 97mm wheels. Might’ve gone faster but weenied out.

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A word of warning for speedsters and dragsters. I was racing @evoheyax this past Sunday and we full throttled it to compare acceleration and speed. Unfortunately, the fuse on the Space Cell blew and sent me flying. I always suspected the fuse seemed a little small ever since I got it and now my suspicions are confirmed! I’d feel much safer with a 60-80A fuse on there, but unfortunately 40A is the biggest fuse for the size. I decided to chop off the fuse and run fuseless for now. Interestingly enough, I’ve climbed some very steep hills for a long period of time and never blew the fuse. The thing that finally did it seemed to just be hard acceleration.

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Please which app are you using ?

speedometer gps on Android

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so what should we ( I ) do then if I want to keep using the stock fuse? ease into acceleration? or avoid going max speed?

Max speed doesn’t take as much current as steep hills and hard acceleration. I’d say just avoid blasting the throttle from slow speeds and avoid very steep hills. My primary recommendation is to just get a larger fuse holder that can hold a 60A+ fuse (I’d use 80A myself). You can also get rid of the fuse altogether. That’s the route I went, but I wouldn’t recommend it to everyone.

Have you gotten a resolution on the scratching sound?

chaka got it Monday and is taking a look now, not sure on status yet.

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where can i get those vesc and wil they work wit sk3 192kv ??? 12s

do you live in the states? diyes or ollin boards are good choices

No I live in the Netherlands

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esk8.de or Enertion may be your best bet. I don’t know many other non-US VESC vendors besides them.

I go by the cell voltage display on the GT remote.

esk8.de has a really great vesc :wink: worth the money!

Hey @Jinra, sick build! Its a great reference for my build.

When you setup your motors for sensored (accidentally) and then hybrid. Did you use VESC’s motor detection tool? Also how did you determine the wiring for sensored mode (BLDC’s 3 wires)? Thanks!

Yea you have to do motor detection to get the integrator limit and bemf coupling parameters, along with sensor orientation. Order of the phase and sensor wires doesn’t matter as long as it’s spinning the right way and you do detection for the sensors. There are 3 combinations of phase wires that will make it spin one way and 3 that will make it spin the other.