High Power 10s Lipo Battery Pack with BMS

I already have one. I do 2x30cell 6S batteries stacked 2 cells high by 15 cells long. Then wire those in series. My board is curved and I mount them as close to the outside of the deck as possible. The way I have them stacked, they’re only about 1.3 in tall stacked 2 high.

Ok, I’ll try to reply to all posts in one hahaha. I’m building @mmaner’s pack. Hopefully it’ll only be a weekend or two until I can get to it.

Kinda sucks that your safe got stolen, hopefully it caught fire before they could take anything from it…

Tessa uses Panasonic NCR18650B cells, they’re the old gen of the NCR18650GA cell which used to be made by Sanyo (who got bought out by Panasonic who is partly owned by Tesla, I hope you seethe connection now). There is really nothing special about their cell except that they use 7800 of them lol. The secret sauce is their temperature control algorithm and system.

The 30Q cells are not the best, VTC6’s by Sony are, but these cost $6 a cell. I can source 30Q at $3 a cell for like 10% more sag.

@radium is correct, a lot of research has gone into 18650, other size cells are not nearly as optimized.

@Namasaki thanks for all the answers! Hope to receive my BMS the coming days and connect it all up. The 5V from the receiver is a nice idea, not tho they will be in the same box. But that’s a whole different part of the project hehe

You could use an Sbec connected to the output of the BMS and battery to supply 5v if you really want a lighted on/off button.

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I would pay the $6 per cell to have the better cells. I think I paid $7 per cell for my 26650s because I thought they would be awesome.

Another problem with VTC 6 is that there are a TON of fakes. Probably more than just about any other 18650 cell. I’m sure counterfeit 30Q exist somewhere, but they’re not very common.

That’s a huge problem and why I wouldn’t even think of buying them on Ebay.

Liionwholesale… I’ve never had fakes from them. I’ve purchased 300 Sony VTC6, ~1500 Sanyo GA, and 2 of LG HG2, LG MJ1, Samsung 30Q, and Panasonic B cells. All of them undergo a capacity test by me when we receive them.

I second that lg he 2 and Samsung 25r

Nooooo stop making me feel so discouraged! I’m about to do my very first build with a 10S2P using the Basens :frowning:

10a2p will work for flat ground

Good one! And I think I have just the thing lying around in the old parts I bought but never used box hehe

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Wanted to run this by everyone and @Namasaki before I order. I was going to get 2 of these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-5000mah-5s1p-20c.html for 5A 10S. This BMS http://www.batterysupports.com/36v-37v-42v-10s-80a-10x-36v-lithium-ion-lipolymer-battery-bms-p-389.html. I gather I can get two of the “BALANCE LEAD EXTENSION” for the two batteries? And need a charger if anyone can recommend one.

You will need a 42v charger either 2a or 5a. You can find those easily on Ebay. The 2a version can be had for less than $20. The 80a bms you listed will be plenty adequate for charge and discharge. You will also need an E-switch or an anti-spark loop key.

Charger: http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Hoverboard-Smart-Balance-Scooter-Wheel-Universal-Charger-42V-2A-adapter-/262623199401?hash=item3d259000a9:g:PtsAAOSw1S9WgOis

Charging Port and Switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Design-Hoverboard-Charging-Port-Power-Scooter-Repair-Parts-Replacement-/262370357698?hash=item3d167df1c2:g:PpAAAOSwjDZYlB14

With a setup like this how do you know when it’s done charing?

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The charger you listed will work fine. It will automatically stop charging when the battery is full. The charge port you listed is the same one that I use. The switch that comes with it us useless though because it is a momentary switch. You will need an E-switch like this:

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I don’t understand how something as simple as an anti-spark loop key can’t be replaced with anything less complicated.

The loop key is the only option that is simple

If your wanting a push button to turn your board off and on then you will need an E-switch Or get a Bestech BMS with a build in e-switch

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The problem is that there are few options in terms switches that can withstand the amp loads of esk8 with voltages higher than 6s…check around…pretty much anti-spark loop key or some type of antispark switch are the only choices…regular switches like a light switch can handle 120v, but not the amps a 12s (50.4v) would produce for example.

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