High Power 10s Lipo Battery Pack with BMS


If the batteries get too far out of balance, they won’t fully charge with a bms and brick charger


With that assumption Id still get 116A cont. Should be fine with a single 6374 motor (80A marked max)… Hmmm… decisions…


Great idea! I think I’ll copy you on that and get these.
I definitely want to keep a close eye on how my batteries are doing.


I’m building kinda of the same concept pack as this just with 4 3s I series for 12s. Instead of hardwiring it for series connection can I just use bullet connectors to connect them in series?


You can use connectors.
Hard wiring just makes a cleaner setup and a more sure connection for maximum dependability and minimum resistance.
Note: that it is still possible to check and even charge packs individually while they are connected in series.
I have done this with mine. I disconnect the bms when testing and charging individual packs using a hobby balance charger with charge cables that have alligator clamps.


Will using connectors decrease speed or acceleration to the resistance or is it very minute that it’s nothinn I should worry about?


Provided the connectors are appropriately sized and soldered correctly, You won’t notice any difference.


5.5mm connectors for 10awg wire


rated for 150 amps. With bullet connectors we used to use male on one battery wire and female on the other to prevent accidentally plugging them in wrong and heat shrink on the females to prevent accidental shorting. That was 10-15 years ago - not sure if that is still best practice.


Ok thx for the info


5.5 bullets are my favorite and what I use on any connections that are not hard wired.
For shrink tube, I recommend using the overlapping mod detailed here:


I plan on making a similar setting using either 5 or 6 of these in series with a bestech bms.

I plan on running one of torque boards’ 6380 motors and an Ollin vesc. It is my first time building an esk8, and I think I might need the power from a 12s setup because I live in a very hilly area, but I’m not sure if one motor would be able to handle it. Should I go with the 10s or the 12s?


Also, will running 12s improve the range?


The difference between 12s and 10s is mainly going to be a voltage difference. Voltage is more like “horse power”

The second numbers (3p, 4p, 5p, etc.) is your capacity. Think more of “gas tank”.

I know this isn’t the exact definitions for both of these, but thats the easiest way to get what changing around your batteries will do.


So if you went from 10s4p to a 12s4p, you may see a bit of range increase, but if you went from a 10s4p to a 10s5p you would actually see a much larger increase.

The main reason you’d see an increase in range going from 10s to 12s is that you have more voltage “headroom” to play with. The sag that you will inevitably see won’t hit you as fast as a 10s battery would.


@Namasaki hey man looks awesome, pretty much exactly where i’m heading but i’m worried it wont fit under my short board length wise do you have the total measurements of this set-up?


The total enclosure length including the flanges is 23"



Only got 420mm :frowning:

Still need to do some research to determine if 8s or 6s will do the job for me so i can fit it all in


Running 12s will increase power and can also increase range because range is determined by voltage and capacity.
For example:
6s/10ah will theoretically have about the same range as 12s/5ah.

Although as @Itsmedant mentioned, going from 10s to 12s is not likely to make a big difference in range but will supply more power for hill climbing.
Keep in mind however that higher voltage can be harder on electronics. Make sure you run heat sinks on your vescs.
And really if your planning on building a hill climber, better plan on a dual drive. A couple of 6374s will supply plenty of torque.


Keep in mind that I have a rather large bms and I allowed a lot of room for the bms and Vescs.

The Actual battery pack is only about 9-10" long