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High Power 10s Lipo Battery Pack with BMS


Foc only works when i reduce i c w. If i try that in bldc just fails no matter what values i put in there also tried lowering motor and battery current max for purposes of detection. That failed too


Since you have a problem with two ESCs, it’s a bit funny. The chance to have two faulty devices is close to zero.


I dont know what it is but any idea why bldc mode wont detect motor any work arounds? Software?


I dont know what it is but any idea why bldc mode wont detect motor any work arounds? Software?


Considering all the strange behavior and both motors and vescs having the same problems I’d suggest to try to find someone near you with working setup and cross check everything. I know this is barely a solution but considering the facts and that you already contacted pretty experienced guys I don’t see better solution.


Thanks man. Still trying…


Getting closer and convinced its a software issue. I had changed the original master to a slave despite loading new firmware many times. When i went back and made the original master the master again i got bldc to connect only on the old master vesc. The slave wont connect. Trying foc and using original master but it could def have something to do with it.


Got foc to run again but cuts out. Just like before. Tried bldc wont detect motor w or w/o sensors.


Measure both motor coils impedance. It should all measure the same.


Im gonna try and build a setup like this thanks @Namasaki


Hey everyone. 20 hours later there were two issues that i think may be solved. The first was setting up master on one vesc and then changing master to other vesc and despite using vesc tool to clear it, it never really forgets setting @trampa said to use stlinkv2 to flash and seemed to fix the software issue. (Thanks Frank) Next issue photon remote receiver. Even after flash it would rev up and shut off. Was about to lose hope but my man @namasaki sent me a mini rc remote and it paired and worked for 20 min flipping power to board on and off many times. No issues. Have to take a test run to declare it fixed but looking good for anyone who gave a sh*t. Thank you everyone who helped me through this certainly some really good trouble shooting tips for future sufferers. Cracking beer to celebrate what seems to be fixed.



I know this is a year later but I’m making my board now. I have a similar 10S set-up however, I was planning to buy a BMS from ebay with 60A over discharge. There is no e-switch though. My plan was that I connect the balance cables to the BMS. Then the negative wire of the charging port to the C or CH port on the BMS. Then this guy I saw on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yrYG5skwvs&t=1043s — 9 minutes in) has some “extension cable” which has +/- wires connected to xt90s (apparently used to be JSTs). One end of the xt90 goes into the series adapter xt90 from the 2 batteries (2x 5s) and the other end of the xt90 goes into a ON/OFF switch (then VESC).

As for the added +/- wires on this “extension cable”, as said before the positive wire connects to the positive of the charger port and the negative goes to the B- port of the BMS.

I also wanted a monitor so if i connect the negative lead of the monitor to the B- port and the positive lead to where the positive wire of the charger port and “extension cable” positive wire had joined.

I would really appreciate your comments on this. I would be very grateful.



The Supower 60a bms is a good choice and can be used with an external E-switch or a Loop Key to turn your board on and off.
I personally would not use a low amp bypass bms like the one shown in the video you posted.
My reason is that when you bypass the bms during discharge, you cancel it’s ability to protect the battery from over discharging and from short circuiting.
Sure you can use the vesc to protect against over discharge but the Vesc can only monitor the battery as a whole. A bms monitors each and every cell or cell group individually.

I also believe that the fewer high current connections you have, the better.
I solder my packs together in series and the main ground from the battery is also soldered to the B- pad on the bms with no connector in between.


Hi Namasaki,

Thanks for the help. I saw the diagram you posted about connections with the BMS. It may have been on a different thread. I’ll follow that too but what I said in my previous comment about the connections, does that seem fine in terms of proper connections. I think negative “extension cable” that goes to the VESC should go to the P- port but is everything else seem good?


I’m having a little trouble visualizing your description.
Better if you draw a diagram and post that.

Bottom line, my advice is to keep the wiring as simple as possible with as few connectors as possible.

And I’m not sure if your aware of this but you can’t just use any old switch on the high current circuit.
You’ll need an antispark loop key or an antispark E-switch


@Namasaki Could you suggest a BMS for 12S-10000mAh-25C Lipo ? I will use it for dual setup ( 2 flipsky 6.6) I am not sure if you would need more details. Even better if you have a tutorial or diagram for 6x 2s Lipo with BMS. Thank you for all your efforts in the forum!


The bms used in this thread is also available for 12s.
Follow the 10s diagram posted in this thread and just add 2 more cells.


Hi Namasaki,

Your help once again is grately appreciated.

I agree I need to keep the wiring as simple as possible.
I am also aware I can’t use any switch. Though expensive I was going to use one of those high amp switches available on torqueboards or something.
This is my plan below

Is it ok?


your diagram is not correct.
The wiring to the bms is not correct.

First thing you have to do is decide exactly which bms you will use because they are not all the same and are not all wired the same.


Thanks for your help I’m such a noob.
I’ve got this BMS https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32839578059.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32839578059&productSubject=10S-36V-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-BMS-with-balance-Waterproof-18650-lipo-Li-ion-16A-25A&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.69d35c0f3TnTBZ

I have chosen the one with 60A with separate port so I’m hoping that it will come with three ports. B- P- C- ports.

Also I was thinking now im not going to have the on/off switch and just have an antibiotic spark loop key because it’s so much cheaper.

Could you help a bit with the wiring if possible.

Thanks so much again.