Ahhhh this is cool as well! Maybe we could integrate this as well…
OO where can I get one of those?
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It was ment for a defective deck that had a shorter nose. My father ended up gluing some wood noses:
(it was the first test deck for the CNC and was pressed with shorter veneers)
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It it still looks perfect!
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your father is a master at work. small details make the full difference. really impressed.
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Totally.
@bevilacqua when’s the kick tail version coming out?
Also, since it’s bound to happen to at least one of us here, can you let us know the size of the torx screws for the top lid, in case we lose one?
Not soon I think, I’m really busy with Uni-work till the end of the Month. We have pressed veneers for 4 prototype decks. Before I leave Spain in 10 days we’ll have something to play with. I also found out that the company that presses the decks has an open mold for a deck with some camber… and we have some ideas regarding that shape too. Next week after christmast break we’ll visit them to see if something can be done.
The kicktail deck would loose roughly 70mm of battery space, leaving 2 600x~76mm channels, making it longer wouldn’t make much sense as the flat kicktail would become useless
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uh sure, we had very few extra because they were hard to get… (thats why there weren’t any spare ones)
Its a M4x8 DIN 965 torx A2-Stainless steel one (black). They sent us some with a quite big head, 8,2mm, smaller ones fit snugger.
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both M4x8 DIN965 A2 Black
- Right one: When I ordered 25 to test
- Left: When we ordered 500+
both fit the DIN tolerance, 7.4-8.4mm head diameter 
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Found these on McMaster. Suitable replacement?
I find the head a bit too big. Non stainless steel ones are easy to find. There are also anodized alu bolts in black
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I am running 13s and I live on a 14% grade hill. I dont go down the hill at full battery often. Usually I unplug at around 52-53v since it’s better for the longevity of the cells and the last 10-15% takes forever to charge anyways. When I’m at full charge, I go down the hill slower than usual so that I’m spending charge to brake instead of Regen. Regen is a bell curve you get optimal Regen at certain load.
As for 60V hardware limit, I run no_hw_limit FW on my 6.6s I have accidentally hit the brake on the full charge twice and the VESC faulted and cut my brake off. Honestly I was going so slow already I just foot brake my way down the hill. Went back and read the fault. 57.9v peak, so I raised my over voltage cutoff to 58V now. I like playing the risk if you haven’t notice. Haven’t had an issue with 13s cutting off since then.
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M4x8 black A2/A4-stainless steel 7,14mm - 7,5mm head diameter:
https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-countersunk-screws/154631-SHK-M4-8-A2-BL
https://www.accu.co.uk is awesome. Wholeheartedly recommend.
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Is anyone planning on painting their HAYA? I’m thinking about painting it a matte black, but I really don’t trust my painting skills enough to not ruin such a nice (scarce) deck.
using graffiti spray, it’s really super easy, then add epoxy 2k matte spray and you’re good
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should I sand the surface with a high grit sand paper first? then, I’m assuming wipe it down with a damp rag?
no need, not even a primer.
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You sure bout that? Id most def and least rough sand and primer or etch then paint… then choice of color then matte clear.
For those wondering, I’m testing @Winfly’s HAYA specific battery modules. They’re working great and this is such an awesome deck 
Amazing job @bevilacqua!
And video
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Preparing the support with just a little time is always better and last longer! Sanding, cleaning, primer base, paint, sand, paint (you can repeat), varnish, send varnish glazing etc … and so on. The more the better. But of curse it old well without all this stape with some good paint ! (most graffiti spray already got varnish in it)
Edit : Look at that work made by ervineline, just like a supercar body!! https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-use-pm/2992/8831?u=riako
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