I’ll go now for #42 and then #69.
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I have 13 
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Expected updates for V0.2:
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Wider channels: 82mm (vs 76mm) to fit 4 20700 cells in parallel. (Will have to test rigidity, but should be ok)
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Slightly deeper wire channels
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Maybe 1ply more to add 1mm depth ? Feedback from builders?(My proto has 1 lees than yours, but I have 18650s…)
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Nose shape change (see posts above)
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The raw deck option (that includes everything but wood finishing) will cost a big chunk less
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Did I miss something simple that would improve the deck?
As mentioned, the production should start the last week of feb. Also, I have not calculated pricing. This time EU guys pay taxes (19% :/). The rest 0%. I will try to squeeze the pricing as much as we can (still not calculated, sorry for that)
Edit, now renamed: HAYA HB92
(short board will be HB83/2 not decided yet)
25 Likes
I agree with the extra mm depth, i was fine with all the rest.
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I recall reading earlier that there was wheel bite at 107s, maybe wheel wells ?
thanks for the feedback charles 
I think we will leave as it is, the design cannot include traditional wheel wells, because we would cut into the compartments. The new nose helps, but there is not much more to do
@StefanMe uses 105 rubber wheels (skullboard ones?) on TB wide trucks. Going wider helps too.
Or, you use brackets like in @sofu 's stunning build
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True indeed, seems TB Trucks are going to be the way to go
I just got my Haya from @mikenyc and I have to say I am in love with it. I have it sitting by my desk so I can stare at it while I work. Lol awesome work. Proud to have #5
I have one suggestion to throw in the mix, have you considered just making the entire top layer the aluminum plate. I would assume this would be easier to make and wouldn’t require much fine tuning to get the lines to meet up nicely.
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One more thing, add a bit more “gap” where the wood and the aluminium meet. I couldn’t get the cover to fit back on flat once i removed it (didnt notice if it was like this to begin with)
Had to file down less than a mm on each side of the wood to get the lid to sit properly.
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The early prototypes where like that. The idea behind baking it a 3 piece system is enabling the openig of the lid without loosening the truck bolts. It would be easier to make, thats true…
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My father glued the pieces a bit too tight, we wanted to make the gap as small as possible . The issue is that on some it was “too” small
to get the cover back, I just bent it a little bit and then it snaps well in place
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No big deal, even if there was a small gap, it would act as a guide for a knife while grip tapping
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‘As tight as a gnat’s chuff’ ain’t nothin’ wrong wit dat
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I holed it from the other side with a tiny screwdriver, on the other side excess cut off & left a bit of grip as a cushion for the countersunk bolt head, stops it turning maybe
it took me awhile to figure that one out, then I thought it was just mine!
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Maybe you could have the truck holes mount underneath the aluminum? I thought that’s how two of the bolts are anyway
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both ways work, there is a hole for those who want to use a footstop for example.
One of the last ideas was to make the edge pieces “bolt-on” too. They could be swapped if the nose gets damaged, and could maybe even integrate a bumper.
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Yea that’s a good idea too.
Just my 2 cents! Next step is to make manufacturing easier so you can pump them out like wildfire!
The world wants your boards!
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