Rotate the 30q 90 degrees from what it is in this pic. You should be able to fit a 10/12s4p pretty easily. I don’t think I could recommend either of those designs for eskate though. I think they would be well suited to small power banks or low voltage/amp draw devices.
How are the parallel connections made? Hope you’re using a higher gauge wire.
that little spool is for fuse, yes I have braid, 8 AWG or sheet options for parallel, BTW big amps flow through the series connections, you only need like 10mm nickel between each cell in a parallel pack
I get you, and in fact the same person made series sleds but of course they will only work on button cells which I don’t use
I can weld them and use Chakka’s cell level fusing design also on thingiverse
But that defeats the purpose of thinking through the process looking for new ideas or improvements
I am aware that the design need to be suitable for high discharge <-> parallel packs edit: the high discharge flows in series
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I saw it and it looks cool but no cell level fusing
The Haya deck cell channels lend themselves well towards compression naturally
Some thought, some metal choices and some ABS+ is all I need
I’m keen to see what you come up with. A compression pack with built in fusing would be great!
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this is my pack. You would need to have individual copression tabs, maybe its eough if you cut/isolate them (NESE ones for example). Then solder (spotweld) the fuse to a common bar.
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You still solder onto the cell. I believe @banjaxxed is looking to make a pack like the winflys or NESE where the cells are still removable.
I saying this I would be interested to see what is actually required to get a 30q to actually catch on fire… Maybe you could fuse P groups on 3-4p packs depending on the individual cell tests above?
10 charizards
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My bad. I really just wanted more Charizards in my life.
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Yes this is the idea you get it! Nice pack there btw
I completely get that for a good connection there are many factors worked out by @agniusm which led me to buy his hardware, in fact I do have some poron/dimples left over.
However that is cheating, I may do that but I would like to see what I can butcher together first
In fact I agree with both of you @Friskies, I do want removable cells AND fusing
Here’s another cart which has a good size height wise but spring is too weak, maybe a union of the two designs along with something to make homemade dimples
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I use the nese packs currently. They are really too big and bulky and the layout isn’t ideal for the Haya. It’s the reason why I’m switching to the @Winfly packs.
This is nice. Wonder how one can achieve the same thing without soldering
Vruzend was making a product a year or so ago. Not sure how far they’ve come but might be worth checking out. Looks like nese module more or less.
you can apparently spot weld fuses as well: -Spot weld to cell -Solder to braided wire
I think kaly uses thin nickel-tabs to spot weld.
first YT video i found: (no idea how bad/good it is)
I’m pretty sure it’s only necessary to fuse one end.
The positive terminals are actually easy to solder if you use a quality iron, good flux and solder.
The negative terminal is the whole body so it sinks a lot of heat. The positive is isolated from the body so heats up quick, and doesn’t heat the actual cell, but if you leave the heat too long the plastic parts for the CID will start to melt.
You should only need 1-2 seconds to solder a fuse wire though. If I was being paraniod, I would:
- lightly scuff sand positive terminal
- flux a positive terminal
- apply 63/37 solder using a largish tip, no more than 3 seconds. 650-700 egrees. Form a small mound. Cool the area with a moist (not soaked) sponge immediately.
- tin the fuse wire
- flux the terminal
- do the joint. Should take like a fraction of a second.
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thats what I do, I did it on both ends because I dont own a spot welder and the cell “suffers” less when you only solder the fuse
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I have it, it’s shit for our application
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