They seem to have everything… Give it a try, make it as thin as possible for 18650s and try to use a UD-Carbon fibre or glass fibre lid to mitigate the “sandwich” effect.
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Hi, I finally spent some time home to work on the HB83 shortboard prototype together with my father.
General Info:
I tested wheelbite with 45deg baseplates / no riser / 76mm Hawgs zombies (what I had in hand) 170mm sabre trucks -> 180mm-isch with the extreme offset of the wheels, and I encountered no wheelbite. 50deg BP help, wider helps, risers help. Next week when I’m home I will put 90mm-popocas on them, prob with a 1/8-1/4" riser.
We will deliver them with 2-3 coats of 2-Component polyurethane matte varnish. It that state it can be used perfectly fine, just remember to dry the board when it rains. Otherwise its perfectly prepared for other types of varnishes, epoxy, CF-Skinning, or painting if you want extra protection or a different look. Its a DIY forum so we want to offer an open platform.
We will ship them IKEA-like: non assembled but with video/text instructions and all the parts needed, even 2-component epoxy for the installation of the threaded inserts. The inserts are super easy to install, and the foam too (similar to applying griptape). It just takes too much time if my father has to do 70 of them all at once. At the end its cheaper for the end user, and easier for us.
We also will not drill over the 2 wood plies we glue on top of the deck tail and nose (like on the first image), this way the user just needs to drill the 2 holes he needs keeping everything clean.
Included are: Deck, Laser-cut lid, foam, inserts, M4 Black SS Torx lid-bolts, Epoxy.
We are aiming at a final price of 150 Euros (Still have to figure out how to manage EU-Prices with TAX, non EU are not taxed).
1st run will be limited for testing purposes and because our manufacturer has a too tight schedule right now. 20-isch Beta-Decks is the target (If there is enough interest). If everything goes to plan we should start with production around the last week of March, with deliveries starting around early April.
If you got any other questions I will be happy to answer them.
Best, Mathias
PICS:
Here are some pictures of how the finished deck will look like, there are some minimal changes in the internal geometry (I will post the exact dimensions later).
The one with the Painted Tail is my personal test-deck.
LINK TO THE IMGUR POST (better see them there): link
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Truley beautiful as before, sign me up
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The first thing i thought off when i saw the shape 
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So still stable/stiff enough even with these cutouts for a rider with 90kg ? I have fear that it will break.
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with a 1.5mm aluminum lid on top it should be strong enough. The final prototype will have one ply more (24).
I yet have to test the stiffness under real eskating conditions, but I highly doubt that I will encounter any structural problems.
G-Form for the first Beta-Round:
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DIMENSIONS:
(The front R25 radius does not match up with the image, but will be like that for structural reasons)
Edit:
The oposite radius to the R25 in the ends is R7mm
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Stefan mounted some 90mm wheels:
- 6deg riser at the back // 1/4” riser front
- 180mm Caliber
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I plan on glass fritting this board with a design underneath. Not entirely sure on how to do the design on the aluminum plate. Unless I pay somebody to laser it on. Any ideas?
Do I really want anime tiddies permanently lasered to a $1300+ piece of equipment is the question.
Also, probably a dumb question - but does the aluminum lid have a concave in it? If not I could mill my own in the future, but I presume it does.
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Yep. Got any more dumb questions dude???
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Do I really want anime tiddies permanently lasered to a $1300+ piece of equipment is the question.
I fail to see how this is a problem.
Completely unrelated question, can you etch into unanodized aluminum with a laser cutter? I have access to laser cutters, but the materials sheet only mentions etching anodized aluminum.
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The problem is that I want might to change to a different pair of tiddies down the line
I really do need to figure something out while keeping price down though. A wrap might be a good idea but I’d have to carefully cut out the screw holes. Can aluminum easily be spray painted and hold it? All of my painting knowledge is with polymers.
Looks like Rust-Oleum may have a good primer
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The concave is added after laser cutting, I could just send it to you without bending.
Bending it afterwards can be done quite easily, not as precise as with a dedicated bending machine, but good enough.
I also could send you as many lids as you want, the added cost per lid would not be that much.
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The board feels really great! It will be a perfect stealth commuter!
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Extra lids may be a good idea, especially with how cheap the raw aluminum sheeting is. I plan on getting in on the first run of these, and I think you mentioned you plan on going more than one run if the demand is there - so for the time being I should be fine, and if it turns out I need more later it looks like I shouldn’t have a problem.
I’ll probably experiment with paint first. Another dumb question - you’re adding layers of urethane to the board - does that include the lid as well?
Funny you asked, mine has, but we had not planed coating the lids, could be done If the user asked for it.
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