Surely in an non-optimized way. I keep the factory settings and never took time to optimize them.
But I’m more and more considering tweaking my printer to add heated bed.
Because I f#ucking hate warp. 
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You print ABS without a heatbed?
In PLA, premium quality…
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i’ve said it so many times but i’ll say it again; it feels weird being a hardcore 3d printing nerd and coming on here seeing people print functional parts out of PLA onto cold beds and buying very expensive but kind of bad printers. I’m just like “wait guys no :(”
man i really need to make a 3d printing crash course post on here, since you can actually make a frigging amazing ABS printing setup for like $250, and with a little more start printing nylon
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I hated printing with ABS until I started using Wolfbite: http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping
You need a heated bed since it is a heat activated adhesion promoter, but for $20 it will last you forever and save you many more $$$$ in trashed parts. Seriously, this works. Forget hairspray, ABS/acetone slurry, tape, blah-blah. Get a bottle of this stuff and forget about it. I have also finally been able to print Nylon, Polycarb, PETG… and no more parts peeling off. I know the genius who developed the technology (he’s a professor at Cerritos College and a 3D printing guru) but other than that I have no ties to sales of this stuff. Just want to spread the good word. 
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sounds neat but i swear by PEI, that’s the real benchmark in terms of heat activated bed compounds. I will agree that if you find a bed adhesion method that eliminates warping, ABS becomes way more palatable because it’s super hard to string or ooze
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PEI is where its at.
amen brother gizmo dorks sells rigid sheets that you apply with included transfer tape, and because it’s .8mm thick its too rigid to form bubbles so it goes on easy and smooth
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I have yet to try PEI, so add that to my list
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I’m working on my second badwolf enclosure and was wondering how do I mount ch 3 for lights? And also How did you secure the USB port and the trigger, with hot glue or different glue or tape?
@Titoxd10001 I am not sure how the BadWolf uses the CH3. I don’t think there is a place for it.
On the MadMunkey the CH3 is on the back. I use my controller in my left hand which places it in a good spot for my thumb. As for the USB I super glue in place to align it where I want, solder the wires on then hot glue around it. The trigger is held in by a long screw through the main board.
@FLATLINEcustoms Does mad munkey mod has some extra space? I want to find a mod, which has enough space for arduino nano, hc-05 module and 0.96" oled display.
Check post 404 is this the same one?
Oh. Sorry… Missed that.
But is it possible to find some space for oled display?
Like on this badwolf mod:
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No worries, I was just wondering if its the same measurements. If it is I believe it will go in sideways.
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My bad I meant MadMunkey enclosure of course. For Ch 3 do I need to remove the white connectors and solder the wires directly on the chip or will they fit?
@Titoxd10001 remove the white connectors and and solder the wires directly on the back. Then check post 218 and cut the board. 4 buttons should have printed with the Mad Munkey. Sand those down and clean up the hole on the back of the Mad Munkey. Make sure the button rests in there without constriction. Take one of the shorter Mad Munkey screws and screw down the board button down.
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Little trick : use the pads from the battery dissaembling on the CH3 PCB. Thus, the main PCB will maintain the CH3 PCB avoiding it to be pushed while pushing the CH3 button.
Not sure I’m clear, so here’s a picture
@FLATLINEcustoms if you plan to upgrade your Mad Munkey, it would be nice to add routes to receive the solders of the CH3 PCB. Because of those, it’s not possible to completely screw the PCB. And if so, the opposite end of the PCB (the cut one) goes up making impossible to push the button. Or maybe I’m mounting it in the wrong way.
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