Goblin Glider | Earthwing SuperGlider | Caliber II | Focbox Unity | 90mm Flywheels | 10s4p battery

ESK8 Builds
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Hello everyone! This is my first post and this is my first eskate build. I been researching for the past few weeks trying to figure out the best way about this. First, I just want to say this forum and its users have been a tremendous amount of help and has really propelled me along on my research. I’ve all but narrowed down to the last few pieces to what I think I want and want to make sure everything is compatible. As I don’t have a deep background on skating in general, I do believe I’ll need some help. I’ve skated a little bit before, but mostly for commute purposes and never even owned a longboard (just a normal popsicle board and a penny board). My reasoning for building an electric skateboard is because I want a different way to commute to work and because I do enjoy building and making things. I don’t have a set speed or range in mind. I don’t really have a set budget either but I’m not necessarily tying to get the most expensive pieces on everything and break the bank. If a better build would require me to upgrade, that’s fine. I don’t mind saving up a bit more. I plan on buying a lot of the parts as I go along rather than trying to save up and buy at once. I have already bought the deck and it is in the mail.

Deck - used Earthwing SuperGlider 38" x 9.5"

Trucks - Caliber II 184mm 50°

Wheels - ABEC 11 90mm Refly Flywheels

Motors - TorqueBoard 6355 190kV x2

Mount - mounts from buildkitboard x2 *link provided by moon.

*Belt and Pulley - TorqueBoard 36T ABEC pulley 12mm combo kit x2

VESC - FocBox Unity ESC

Battery - going to assemble myself but plan on 10s4p w/ Samsung 30Q 18650 battery cells

*Remote - DIY remote from fellow user solidgeek.

Okay, this is what I got thus far and I will try to delve into it a bit more for clarity. The parts with asterisk beside them are not hard locks yet, but I am open to any ideas on anything really. I ordered a used SuperGlider online because I was convinced on here they were good and they have been discontinued but I really really wanted a longboard with a kicktail. I originally wanted to get dual 6374 motors but I came to realize that I would be pushing for space and didn’t want to get 218mm trucks because I was worried it might look a little too wide and thus weird. I’m not too sure, but I’ve come to terms with 6354 and I’m sure they will be more than enough. The hills here are fairly tame here and this is my first build. I was just more worried about heat. I’m not sure on the belt and pulley kit. There’s a 36T and a 40T. I haven’t done the math yet when it comes to the electrical and mechanical system yet but I’ll get there. I will be acquiring a spot welder but I want to build my own battery pack. I’ll figure out details on that when it comes to it but I’m not sure yet if it will need to be 12s4p or a series of 10 is fine. I guess when I narrow down the VESC, I’ll know the answer to that. Or maybe what VESC I have won’t matter for what my battery setup will need to be. I plan on using LG HG2 which seems to be one of the better Lithium-ion on the market, but I’m not 100% certain because a lot of what I been reading up on hasn’t been very recent. I will say I am NOT down for LiPo and am certain I want Li-ion. The VESC is what is really giving me a lot of trouble. I really don’t know what to go for. Even after all my research, I am not that much closer to really knowing what I want to get. I want a high quality one but also don’t want to wait an undisclosed amount of time for them either.

Those are the main components that I have figured out. Of course there are misc items too. I will get a battery indicator, riser pads, and I will make my own enclosure. Is everything thus far compatible with each other? Am I missing an important detail or part that I probably should have? Should I post links of the items I have listed for simplicity sake or is that unnecessary?

I can take pictures and record my journey on this if that would be interesting at all. I want to thank you for taking the time to read this.

Edit- Switched up my parts list to update comment suggestions. LG HE4 --> 30Q. Note, I do plan on thoroughly researching this battery building process. SK 6354-260kV --> Torque Board’s 6355-190kV. I was sold on a Unity. Now I won’t need to buy a power switch. I may need to change remotes for compatibility. Nano --> DIY arduino based remote. This thing looks perfect for what I originally wanted. Small, sleek, boosted remote inspired, and no hobby remote trigger. I’m still reading the thread and figuring the details out. AFAIK, this should work and since I’m doing my own battery pack, this isn’t too much extra.

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Looks good! A few things, though, one, you should go with 2x focbox, they are the best on the market right now. Two, 10s battery combined with 260kv motors will be too much erpm for your esc, you should change your motors to 190kv motors

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Great advice. Might opt for higher quality motors as well.

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Sk3 are pretty high quality

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Thought they were hobbywing, mb

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Yeah I don’t know your budget but HE4 or HG2 (whatever you choose) aren’t as good as Samsung 30Q.

And have you made Liion packs before - a lot of research is required.

And these mounts are a bit cheaper and pretty much do the same job: (I have a pair for sale if your interested)

https://buildkitboards.com/collections/motor-mounts/products/motor-mount-1

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These wheels are pretty good

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How are the focboxes? I was reading earlier that some of the initial batches weren’t good but the american made ones were suppose to be better. How did that turn out?

And thanks for the info on the motors. The ones I am looking at are from HobbyKing. I can’t find a 6354 for 190kV, but I found a 6364 190kV. Also, I meant to ask about sensored motors. Are they not necessary?

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6364 wont fit on normal calibers and sensored motors arent needed

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I don’t really have a budget as long as it is reasonable. From what I gathered, LG HE4 are slightly better versions of HE2. But LG HG2 are better than those. The stats I read on HG2 say that it has 20A and 3000mAh. 30Q apparently runs 15A and 3000mAh. Or are you saying the quality of the Samsung cells are generally better?

I’m not opposed to those motor mounts though. As long as they can assist in being a heat sink.

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Yeah forget the numbers, 99% of members here will tell you 30Q is the way to go. HG2 run hot I think, and 30Q are technically rated to 20A

I mean all mounts are pretty much aluminium so it it assists a little

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Okay, I’m sure I saw different rpm/v on the same motor on HK. Just browsing on their site is a little tedious. So no sensor and no size change.

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if you want to run FOC or hybrid mode its better to have sensored motors. yeah they cost you a little bit more but they actually run more efficient. also you’ll get off the line better. with unsensored motors they tend to cog up a little bit and then get you moving if you don’t push before engaging throttle

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so basically the HK options are either: Sensorless: SK3 63xx motor <200kv Sensored: SK8 63xx motor <200kv

Sensorless is basically more if you wanna save a few dollarydoos

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So I have an entire longboard now and none of the electrical or mechanical parts of it yet. I bought a used deck, took off the existing grip tape, sort of reshaped the front and tail end, and applied new grip tape. When naming this build, I decided to go all in on the green theme for better or worse. Since all the green won’t be the same shade or anything, but maybe adding black into the mix will help a bit. I don’t think it looks bad, but I can understand if someone didn’t like the color scheme. The grip tape looks terrible because it was my first time applying grip tape and it is pretty coarse. So it was kind of difficult to cut cleanly. The imperfections are quite obvious with its wild colors. I’ll get over it, but hopefully it doesn’t take away from the overall looks. Also, it doesn’t flatly sit on all four wheels. I don’t recall it being lopsided yesterday, but I couldn’t say with certainty. I’m not sure if it is because the deck got slightly warped or what. I’ll look into it. I don’t think it sitting in the trunk of my car for one day would have done that. I meant to go test it out today, but wasn’t able to. I plan on trying it out tomorrow.

Deck1

Deck2

Longboard

Longboard2

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Great advice from what I can tell so far. I went with the mini remote instead of the nano. I have heard the nano is less reliable. The mini does look really bad, but I am planning on gutting it and making my own enclosure. Plus I will have that extra channel for that extra shhh, oh and it seems to be very reliable

If you want a more reliable remote that is also compact, I have heard good things about the benchwheel

edit: as for you board not sitting flat, I would say it could likely be your bushings. It isn’t really a problem when riding. Try manually pushing the truck to a far extreme and it may not return perfectly to center, you could put some lube on your bushings, helps with the squeeks I hear, I don’t really worry about it…

The deck looks really good though, I find that I really appreciate imperfections. One should celebrate them and smile… The top of that deck looks so good, some clear would look really good on it, but I think the clear is not very good for grip as black and others. Did you try scraping the edge hard with the shaft of a screwdriver where the grip tape rolls off the edge of the board? then take a sharp razor blade at an angle and neatly cut the edges?

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Yea, I been reading meh things about MBoards and now even from DIYBoards. So I will be reconsidering my items from there.

It won’t be too difficult to change up remotes even though most remotes out there don’t really do it for me. The nano is one of the only “cheaper” ones that looks sleek and compact. It just apparently has the problems of not being reliable. I’ll look into those suggested options though.

The more difficult issue is trying to find an alternative place for motors and the pulley systems.

Hmm, that could be it. I was stressing out the flexibility of it last night. Trying to get a feel for how I will have to go about doing the batteries and enclosures, kind of like how you are figuring out how to go about it. I was also stressing out on the leans to make sure I wouldn’t get wheel bite. I will definitely look at the bushings. Thanks

Edit- I confused DIYBoards with diyeboards. So I will continue getting my listed parts from there later this week unless someone suggests otherwise.

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sorry, made some edits above… Wheel bite could be an issue without risers on that setup, not 100% sure. I am going with 10" trucks on my glider. Maybe I can try some stuff out for you here. I have a few trucks and wheel sizes on hand

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Yea, I watched several videos on applying it. I got the jist of it. I used a screwdriver to score it. Unfortunately, because the type of grip this was, it was more coarse than your average grip tape. So it really made it more difficult. Also it dulled the blade way faster. I probably should have used more than one. I know my angle wasn’t perfect either. I think what makes it so obvious is the contrast between the bright green and the tape being white.

CloseGripTape

CloseGripTape2

I currently have 1/4" risers now.

I do like the grip tape. Makes it stand out and is pretty unique. It’s just very flashy on all fronts, good and bad. lol :sunglasses:

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I like it a lot man… here is one of mine…

IMG_2796

edit: I see those are your calibers, have you taken it for a ride? I don’t know why 169’s are recommended, I think the wider trucks are much better suited