So rewrite
-your order was received out of processing order
-had you been shipped in the right processing order you potentially would have received v4s, but the purchase was for a board with v3s.
-the upgrade cost is per motor, which equates to nearly half t original price
-you feel cheated due to the order of events.
-a refund isn’t what you want, but its probably the best option. I know we all want our stuff to work. But sometimes its better to move on. If the option is there, I’d ship it back and move on.
A buddy of mine wants a 4wd carvon xl setup… Ive been trying to convince him otherwise for a bit. You see if I’m gonna build something, I think about longevity. Two years from now, or months or whatever, when X breaks. Will there be a readily available replacement part? With carvon…probably not. In two years, will 63mm motors be around? More then likely, and the motor will probably be under $130 total, be completely serviceable. Or even better just upgradeable with a different motor entirely… 699 for for a non self serviceable/part abundant motor setup… Lol
So it seems like if one warranty repair will cost them $100 in shipping alone and the most more cost effective solution to them is just to send out upgraded components. They’ll hit $200 in servicing the warranty in no time it seems. Kind of a head scratcher.
Since they offered a full refund it makes me think they’re under time pressure more than anything else. After all, whats to stop a customer unhappy with EVO w/ V3s from getting a refund and then queuing up for an EVO with V4s?
Id prefer not to take it back apart as Ive already applied loctite and reinstalled it on the board. Once I removed the screws one side came off with just a little wiggling by hand. The side with the bent axle required a puller for about 3 turns then it slid off as well.
True story, Im also a mechanic with lots of experience removing stuck parts but with a $20 tool it really isnt too bad and pulling on the can by hand isnt the best idea anyway as it stresses the fan at the back of the rotor which is the most fragile part of the motor design.
@go_electric I suggest visiting your local Autozone to rent the puller if you dont wanna pay $20 for the tool. You pay for the tool up front but once you return it they refund your money.
Also, if you have dented the can near there rear where the fan is it will make removing the can very difficult.
Im still not sure what u are trying to that requires disassembly? Did u just want to inspect it? If you shorted the motor from overheating(most likely) the whole stator will need to be replaced and it probably best to just take jerry up on his offer for repair.
it was really easy for me. Definitely have to put some force because of the magnets but the rotor can can be really easily removed
Note aside, to all carvon V3 owners I have a question have you noticed some kind of cogging in the motor when you accelerate hard from a dead stop. I’m very afraid abou this.
I feel like i’m damaging the motors each time it happens.
When i will accelerate i will hear som kind of coggin and when it happens the motors stop accelerating, but generally they work fine i dunno why there’s this weird cogging.
Yes sir, the rear bearing is seated in a metal fan and the rotor rides on the outside of the fan. It was problematic on the V2’s because it was load bearing but the load on the V3’s is in the wheel bearings only so its only an issue during disassembly or if the rotor takes a hit.
I believe the V2 fan was plastic where as the V3 fan is metal. Jerry upgraded that part on the V3 even though he took the load off of it.
When i mean stop accelerating it’s during the cogging. Once it’s ended the acceleration come back. I was at 60 before and it was happening as well. under 60 would be too slow acceleration imo.
I’m at 80 now and the acceleration/ breaking is great. I manage to avoid the cogging by being gentle with the throttle at low speed.
Do you know why it happends ? Asked jerry he couldn’t answer
Weird I had a lot of them at 60. Maybe i should try BLDC n see. Try unsensored as well. There must be a solution.
It’s quite infuriating because i can’t just go full throttle from a dead stop sometimes ( it’s not happening all the time maybe 1 or 2 time per ride never more ).
Did you go top speed yet ? I chickened out until I had them… it’s so damn fast
I think the bearing ID to axle OD tolerance on the outer motor bearing is a bit large and during heavy acceleration the magetic force generated in the motor causes the rotor to shift towards the phase coils being energized. Its an annoying sound but it hasmt caused anything more than noise over the months its was occuring. I adjusted my throttle curve in the VESC tool to tune the issue out at the expense of some low speed torque.
If you go up higher in curremt settings a different type of issue starts which is more of a screech, that tends to happen closer to the 80-100A motor setting. Ive gotten that on multiple motors on FOC (not just hubs) and I belive its due to magnetic satuartion of the coil causing the FOC parameters to be too far off leading to what’s basically an electrical misfire. I haven’t switched back to BLDC to test my theory cuz after running FOC, BLDC mode sounds horrid to my ears lol.
I’m the other way around, I like noise fro the motors. FOC sounds like a Prius and BLDC sounds like a Ferrari…okay fine, more like a busted old car with no mufflers. Silent night rides in the quiet neighborhood is great with FOC though
Does anyone else get cogging when you brake hard at 30pmh+ on bdlc unsensored? I do and the only way to make it stop cogging is to let off the brakes and try again using less brake input.
