I’ve been waiting for what seems like forever now on my sk3 245kv. I’ve looked around and found the G160 245kv. Any reason I shouldn’t get this?
it really depends on the answer to these questions.
- wheel diameter
- battery voltage
- gearing reduction ratio
- desired top speed.
The g160 is rated to 10s and I’ve used both the 245kv and 290kv versions with great success! It’s a solid motor and it packs a punch! Also, the shaft comes with a flat spot for pulley set screws. No alterations needed. Full disclosure, I’ve bought about 15 of them and one of them had loose windings. That’s not a bad track record though and I was able to fix it anyway.
Turnigy AeroDrive SK3 245Kv in Europe
- 2x 3s in series for 22.2v
3.idk but 17t pinion, 40t spur, 57t belt
Its rated at 10s but will it support 6s?
Yup! you’ll be amazed at how strong it is. thats the max rating it can handle. 3s to 10s
17/40, 6s, 245kv, 83mm wheels will put you right there 20-22mph
Do you know what the differences are between the g160 and sk3, besides the flat spot on the shaft? Do you prefer one over the other?
The g160 doesn’t use the skirt bearing. Instead it uses three 16mm bearings.
Personally, I’ve had better experiences with the g160 motors. I had a board using a single 290kv that would nearly hit 50mph @ 8s.
And that’s a good thing, I take it? Lol. I’m not too up to speed on bearing lingo.
When you replace bearings you wouldn’t have to buy 2 different kinds so yes. Good thing.
So I have the motor now and have used it for around 10 miles. It is really solid, but recently the red motor wire came lose or something and has bad connection now. If I don’t put it in the right position it vibrates. I’ll post a video. How can I fix this?
Loose? you may need to solder it. Or send it back. Either way, you don’t want to be riding your board when the motor wires phase out. For a good example of what will happen, touch any two of your motor wires together and try to turn the motor by hand.
it may be due to how you have the motor wires routed. It looks like the box is mounted pretty far away and that the wires are pretty snug. (maybe so they didn’t sag?) If you’re positive its the red wire you should be able to get in there and solder it again. I’d rethink the wiring to eliminate that issue.