Arent you using Lipo batteries?
That bms is for Lifepo4 batteries and it won’t work with Lipos or Li-ions
You need this one for Lipo or Li-ion
I purchased 5 of these for the battery.
Should I also include the 12g and 18g wire? Will one roll of each be enough?
Good catch, I’m glad I asked before buying!
Ah nvm. I see. These wires are for the connectors to the BCM, and the 12g is for connecting the batteries to the other electronics. I think I got it.
Yes, you will need 12g to extend battery mains and 18g to extend charge port and E-switch
Okay. Finished ordering. All that’s left should be the PCM.
The BMS comes with a balance harness with connectors. which are extended with the 2s balance extensions.
I just removed the male connector of the balance extensions and connect that end to the balance harness that comes with the BMS
Print this pic as a PDF and attach it to an email to [email protected]
Request a purchase order for 2 modules with the specs in the pdf.
Alright. All parts ordered. Just have to wait for everything to come in!
Wheels, trucks, bushings/pivot cups, motor mount and pullys all came in today.
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Batteries, soldering station, motor, cables all came in. Waiting for VESC, deck, and PCB. Anything I can get started with while I wait?
Not much without the deck but you could start by fitting the motor mount to the trucks.
Also, depending on what deck your using, you may need risers to prevent wheel bite and to give ample clearance for motors and enclosure.
And check your battery packs for nominal voltage and balance.
Will I need a seperate LiPo charger to test for balance and voltage?
It’s a very good idea to have a hobby balance charger to check and balance charge each pack before putting them together in series.
I would get one with built in AC power option
Caliber II trucks with riptide barrels/cones/pivot cups. 90mm wheels. Waiting on the board and VESC.
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Your gonna love those WFB pivot cups. They’re self lubricated so they never make those annoying squeaky sounds that stock pivot cups make.
On the Krank bushings, you start with them hand tight (snug) and then tighten them 1/2 turn at a time up to 2 turns as needed until you find that perfect balance of lean and stability.
Oh, one thing I forgot, you need bearing spacers for your wheels so that you can tighten the bearings down without causing the wheels to bind.
I use these heavy duty spacers and they are the bomb!
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Totally stalking this thread as I’m hoping to accomplish the something similar. Just a quick question, what is the significance of requesting 2 modules. Are you talking about the PCM itself, or some part of the interface that accommodates 10s? Thanks for all of the great info BTW.
