I ordered all white, can I take that test print? Looks lot better.
It sure is a dramatic difference. I’m guessing most of us won’t want the rougher looking one
is yours the nicer quality 3D print? Just curious what you think of the fit and finish of yours, if it’s the more basic quality version
I imagine one could sand with really fine grained paper these too look smother, but is there some kind of like resin/gel that you can polish over something like this that would harden and fill in the spaces? Kinda like they use to polish up carbon fiber or fiber glass when sanding it smooth?
Just look at YouTube videos about smoothing out 3d prints
It can be time consuming
Yeah, I think you can set them in the fumes of acetone or something to slowly soften the edges. But you’d have to take all the electronics out of the controller first, to do this.
Lol, kinda defeats the purpose of buying it ready made if you have to diy it to smoothness, 
It’s a 3d print, not injection molded…this is what 3d prints look like. If it defeats the pruoose, don’t by it. But snide comments don’t help anyone.
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Drunk comment?
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Yeah. If I’m not happy with this print quality. I’ll either use 3D Hubs or finally repurchase a printer
Naw just typing too fast I guess. Edited for lack of drunkness 
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@clistpdx mine was printed via 3d hubs by a stranger and is not indicative of how the other prints from SeeTheBridges will turn out.
That being said, it’s black plastic, looks fine and feels fine. Yes you can tell it’s 3d printed because it was lol but you can’t tell more than a few feet away
Took it out for a spin last night! Everything worked great, I’ll need to change a couple esc settings today to get it working just how I’d like but the test ride went off flawlessly. Only setting I forgot to adjust was the ppm deadzone, I had left it at 15% and I prefer the controller to respond sooner. But that’s a setting on my end nothing to do with the Firefly
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Okay, at .015 “optimal” the print for all parts except wheels is 7 hours. Started it last night, still cooking when leaving for work this morning. 
The print bed is about 60% full.
I’ll post up photos tonight. At 8 hours (including wheels) per set, it’s hard to do more than 1 set per day unless batching parts for a bigger run.
This is on a Prusa i3 mk3, which is supposed to be pretty fast. (Sorry, n00bish, first printer)
Because of the overhangs, I don’t think this will print nicely with anything but PLA. Supports will leave an ugly finish. Will do the obligatory tests with ABS and PETG.
@SeeTheBridges $3 isn’t even covering your costs, and everyone wants the higher quality prints – you need to charge a bunch more for the 3d printed parts. 
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Sign me up for a kit!
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Im planning on making a silicone mold for the case (as not real impressed with 3D print quality even if used ABS and vapor treatment, also vapor treatment can distort parts) this week, been preparing printed part for mold by sanding and painting to achieve smoothest quality. Will post results as soon as im done for comparison.
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@Scoo_B_SK8 check out this thread if you haven’t already
The mold process is long but the results are worth it. I’m sure we would pay good money for it. I bought a remote from @FLATLINEcustoms just because of it.
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Oops edited. Forgot to link 
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@Mikenopolis super funny i was gonna post that BJB video after reading your post with missing link 
BJB has a couple great YouTube vids on molding processes.
Using Oomoo 30 for my master molds. Have a couple eskate parts i want to mold
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Got on batch 3. You said there’s a chance batch 3 won’t happen?