FOCBOX UNITY | Support, Setup & Troubleshooting

What OS X do you have.

I’m running Sierra I need to upgrade to Mohave

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So focbox tool won’t work on anything that isn’t Mohave?

I guess it’s a good thing I didn’t get the unity because I am on El Capitan because I’m running CS6

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I actually use my Samsung Galaxy s8 plus to set up my board now lol. It’s nice to be able to to do motor detection on the fly now.

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I have a iPhone so I’m f’ed all around

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Forgive me if this has already been covered, but I’m new to Esk8 scene, I have a lot of experience with ESC and Motor dynamics from years of building R/C Heli’s, but some aspects of these ESK8 controllers are new to me so I have a few questions. Any insight is very much appreciated.

  1. I have a Unity with R-Spec kit running on 12C1P. I am wondering what exactly “Motor Thermal Throttling” is. Its enabled on my current build, but I have no idea what it actually does or what I should look for when deciding the settings for max motor temp and whatever Motor Beta is.

  2. When I’m riding and back off the throttle to coast, there is more drag from the motors than I want. Is this controlled by the Max Breaking Regen Current Settings?

Hey man! So the motor temp throttle is when your motor reach the temperature (the one you set) is will decrease power to let the motor cool down …i think you should set it at 100C-110C … for your second question i have no idea :confused:

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  1. https://vesc-project.com/node/183 (You need 15% temp headroom for the brakes!)
  2. That is the natural drag of the motors when you coast. No setting will make that any better.
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Is it possible to run a single motor on the unity without damaging anything? I broke a motor mount so I’m down to one motor for a few days.

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yes it is possible, just isolate properly the dangling phase leads (electrical tape for temporary use)

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Yes but as it stands right now you will have to use the tool for motor detection. Unless you have a spare motor then do motor detection through the app and unplug the spare motor afterwards. @Deodand is working on an update to make this possible through the app.

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During motor detection does it make a difference if you leave the belts or gears in place? Thanks

I would probably recommend leaving the drive train ON. It gives you a mechanical advantage when performing the manual wheel spin (determines wheel direction and flux linkage)

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Ok, many thanks.

Wait so it’s possible to make a motor wizard with “load” to the motor axle? Before with vesc it was always recommended and very hard to finish motor wizard without removing the belt or gear so the motor could spin free without any roll resistence.

Yes, in the guided setup, there’s a prompt that ask you to hand spin the wheel in the forward direction. Because it is attached to the drive train, hand spinning the wheel will make the motor spin very fast, thus generating enough back emf to calculate the flux linkage.

Oh that’s great! Just mounted apart 6 gear drives because I forgot to run the motor wizard before I assembled it :joy::sweat_smile: But this is great then I do not have to worry about forgetting to do so before in future.

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I’m asking for some help, links where I could read basic understandings of the unity setting abbreviations and getting the most of my setup. Im not commenting on enertion support here. Regarding my board,

  • 2 Motor Turingy 5035 125kv
  • 2 zippy lipo 5000 40c in serie = 10C
  • mountain board mbs comp95, 8’’ wheels, 72 teeth wheel side, 16 motor side, chain driven
  • unity the experimental IOS version doesn’t work here, so I bought a microsoft laptop specially for my board ( what ever is needed to ride the board,lol) So the problem is after several tests and tries - one motor is running always slower, starting with delay . This is visible in the software focbox UI in HU . Motor 2 is getting less Volt only till full throttle . The values in motor calibration are always different for each motor . Is this normal? Where can I read what these values and abbvrevations mean ? Can I change the max RPM? IMG_1734 IMG_1735 Thank you for any help , I appreciate any progress input .
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Those motors are very small for a mountain board. But anyways not the point here.

We can see in the motor detection one of the motors has considerably less inductance making me think the Kv of each could be different, thus the motor speed difference.

Honestly i dont think 5035 will handle 8” tires very well. Might end up overheating and shorting out.

What you can try, is lower your motor current to 40A

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