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66,7 on 5v and gnd
146 on 3v3 and gnd
00.6 when my mulimeterwires touch.

The bt module I have tried removing and reconnecting


Well I just got to Christmas dinner with the family. Are you free tomorrow sometime? Maybe I can hop on a call and get this figured out.


That would be great. I’m free all day. Sweden time… Let me know when you are available. My email is


Cool, I’ll email ya. Anytime after 8am my time (PST) I think it will be about 5pm for you.


It magically started to work again by itself when I turned it on and of multiple times. No idea why it fixed itself…


Check your solder joints/connection points.


Glad your issues are resolved, Actually we already replied to your email but seems like you already solved the issue and you also mentioned it in the email
Let us know if there is anything else required



Went for another ride today and everything went fine. Problem is back after I charged it up again, like yesterday.

Can this be related to me modifying the switch (always on mode)? This didn’t happen the first two charges when I still had the unity powerbutton…

My battery needs to be turned on during charging for the bms to work according to can this cause any trouble with the focbox being powered on during charging?


That doesn’t sound right…


Well both the charger and battery has stickers saying it’s nessesery. Have confirmed with support also.


Huh… strange implementation… im guessing the switch puts the bms in a fault condition to turn it on, for example shorting out the thermistor.

Can you confirm these are the events:

-turn batt switch on
-charge batt
-(unity is on)

-charge cycle done
-turn switch off
-unity is off

-Turn switch on, unity stays off



Yes that’s correct


If the powrr switch is on and you plug/unplug the 5 pin what happens?


Tried turning it on without plug in, noting. Keeping the battery powered and plugging 5-pin in, nothing… not even the led flicker.

It does the same today - if I unplugg unity from battery, wait 2min, plug in and power, led will flicker for a second. Then it need to “rest” two more minutes before the led shows life again.

And I think when I did that about 30 times yesterday it came to normal life again.


So is a unity/battery set up this way void warranty if a spark ever fries the unity? Or do you still advocate for using an loopkey?


A loop key would negate the need for a power button and anti-spark. The Unity has both built in. :wink:


Man just trying to get a straight answer has been such a challenge in this topic. Thank you for the reply.


Yeah I’d recommend just using the built in switch for simplicity. A loopkey should be fine to use as well but you won’t need any precharge resistor with your key, the onboard switch always controls the dV/dt to be constant during power on/off. You just need to do the little workaround with the switch bypass if you want that to be your power switch.


The bms that comes with the battery is bestech bms with e-switch i think, and yes it needs to be turn on while charging, i got the same bms but still thinking to use them or not with the unity, then i read this thread :thinking:


@Sn4pz @billappleton

any interest in a heatsink for the unity? printing a prototype, will test fit tomorrow