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I have tried removing everything except the modified power connector.

Did this mod before the last ride


Ah are you sure you still have continuity there? I.e. those 2 pins are shorted? You have a separate shut-down switch?


Excuse my naivety @Deodand - Going straight xt60 from battery to unity, will the unity act as an antispark? Lets say the button is unplugged for whatever reason, will it ever spark?

Basically I’m asking if I should go XT90s-XT90-XT60 for some antispark protection when plugging the battery in or can I just go straight XT60-XT60 and not get any arcing, under any circumstances?


I haven’t ever found a way to make the unit spark. The button is normally open momentary pushbutton so when its unplugged its the same as it just not being pressed.


Ofc it will, the sparking happens when two terminals are being connected physically and the device being connected needs to charge its caps, thus the big inrush current and sparking. No such thing happens on the Unity as the caps are behind the integrated “anti-spark” switch.


Yes there is a separate battery switch. Whole batterypack and enclosure are made by eskating.

Tested the continuity and it’s ok.

I actually saw the led on the unity flicker for a second when powering the battery now but can’t replicate it.


Thanks both, makes it easier.


Yeah double check that your wire on the modded switch connector is good. Do you have the old switch to test with or you destroyed it to make the connector? Try removing 1 thing from the system at a time to zero down where the problem is.


When I wait for 1-2 minutes I can make the led flicker again. To get the unity to power on, does anything more that battery power need to be connected? Motors can be disconnected right?

I “destroyed” the switch but can solder it back again.


can you confirm you have power coming out of your battery? sounds like you have a BMS in your system


Voltmeter shows 41,3v


On the output connector, you have a multimeter handy?


Sorry I don’t understand


With a multimeter, can you probe the output connector of the battery and get a voltage reading from there.


Yes there is where I get the reading 41.3v.


You have a multimeter? Can you use your multimeter to confirm continuity of the 2 pins on the 5 pin switch connector?


If anybody got a picture of how the switch is wired to connector I will solder the switch back and try.

Yes I have tried the continuity with my multimeter


Your multimeter have a resistance mode? When the unit is powered off can you measure between 3v3 and gnd and 5v and gnd on the 7 pin connector?


Not shure what I’m looking for but I get a value on the meter on both 3v3 + gnd and 5v + gnd


What is the rough value? Far from 0? Can you confirm the BT module on the unit is still seated correctly?