Fliess 3 - "Einmal DirectDrive - Immer DirectDrive!"

very nice work fliess, that thick axel, might be the best way to go.

i might just get my own lathe and cnc, might be waiting another year to get the carvon v3 speeds, i just need to know what motor ,can, ect to start with. im new to this forum not to good at navigating around yet.

very nice, that thick axle , a winner.

@ThisIsIT, thanks, hopefully itā€™s enough thick. So far couldnā€™t get it bent though :slight_smile:

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Hey I was wondering if your building your motors in house or what? For direct Drive motors?

@thebeast, homemade, every part with care :smile: Recently tried to swap back to my old 83mm (80a) flywheels and must say itā€™s crazily good feeling on a good road comparing to 90mm (75a) flywheels. Talking about genuine flywheels of course. It seems I am coming to the point of understanding that there is no just a single thing which is good for everything. If you wanna ride fast and carve sharp, then surely you need harder/smaller wheels, like downhillers do. For relaxing long trips or just commute ugly soft 90mm+ wheels.

So you make your motors? I see you had to create a way for it to connect to the wheel. How did you do that exactly?

Any update with these? How are they holding up?

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Yes Iā€™m very interested in theseā€¦ Do you plan on selling any, or if not the motors, maybe you could sell the wheel connection adapter you made. Was the case for these motors just the sk3 lathed down a bit or did you make a whole new cylinder /case for the motor and the wheel adapter? I would buy immediately if you were selling!

Is this a whole new piece, or just the motors polished up and the new wheel connector added on top?

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I really want to do exactly what you did, but I want to run these insteadā€¦

Lovely 6384ā€™s at 100kv, 4000W motorsā€¦ These would have such amazing torque and an incredible top speedā€¦ *drooling *

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If he would sell his adapters they wouldnā€™t fit 63mm motors. Because sk3 63xx motors are actually 59mm in diameter, and aliens motors are true 63mm dia. And they use other magnets, not sure if his adapters have teeth on the other side wich goes between the magnets.

I donā€™t think it matters that it be exactly flush with the motor. If itā€™s just 3mm less in diameter, itā€™ll still fit over a 63mm motor. As for where it would screw in, he could leave it blank and let us do it ourselves, or have multiple positioned holes for the screws.

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@uigiroux, hey dude. Nice to see again some activity in my modest thread :slightly_smiling_face: And especially nice that not only I believe, that direct drive is good, damn good. My tausend km is already behind and motors are doing very well. What is also nice, that dirt is not a problem for DD. And of course if you like aggressive riding, you would appreciate having normal wheels on which you can always rely (unfortunately still not a case with hubs).

However, there are also drawbacks - you have to carefully think about motors protection. Yes, really carefully. I realised that after broken magnets one of the motors. And this happened despite on 2mm thick protective cases. Having silicone tubes over protective cases makes things much better, but worsen heat dissipation, which may become a problem in hilly areas. To forget about both issues forever I am trying now V4A stainless steel (ouu eah, this is much harder than just a steel, already fucked up my mini lathe tools) thick bushings over the motors. This is ~1kg mass overhead, but should be super strong and 0 issues with overheating. Also allows to ride normal 83mm wheels for proper fun without being worried about motors :relieved:

Ah, yes, back to questions: no, I donā€™t sell, this is too much time consuming; on pictures is a whole new piece, i.e. sk3 motor as it is + 63,5mm case on top + wheel connector, which is rather connected to the case than the motor itself (no teeth on inner side). I need to check for more pictures. 6384 will make your skate ugly wide/heavy and too much powerful (unless you decide to also use ugly 90mm+ wheels). On this video https://youtu.be/zg72OSutHYI I am still on 90mm wheels and there is true 20% hill. As you can see there is no issue with power, even if you go up and down multiple times (tested). Once I came on true 29% hill, but it started to rain and my test failed :disappointed_relieved: Although, it became clear, that on 90mm wheels with 6374 it would only be doable with pre-acceleration. 83mm change the game though and much more fun to ride.

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You should really consider milling these only for the sk3! People would definitely buy them off your hands. Also if youā€™re only sell them as diy kits, it should not be much time consuming for you :ok_hand:

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@TarzanHBK, my poor Chinese Rotwerk minilathe is already on its limits, would I try to mill another set and it will fall apart :smile:

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dudeā€¦ you are climbing on a hill at a gradient for 20%, at the speed of 30kmphā€¦ HOW??? How fast is this thing on flat grounds? also which battery configuration are you using? 10s4p?

hey, @agent. I thought even Boosted can do 20% at 30kmh :relieved: For DIY this is probably a minimum requirement at all. 10s5p.

oh, I didnā€™t know Boosted could do 30kmph on 20% gradient, Will be trying the same very soon. Also one question, I am using high kv motors 400kv, and low voltage 4s, I was wondering how would efficiencies change when I use a 200kv with a 8s. or 140kv with 12s?

Does this help in Hill Climbing?

Abselotely! The 140kv 12s would outperform the 400kv 4s in every way!

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Depends on the hardware. Just look at the high kv - 8s build from @MoeStooge which outperforms many 12s builds :wink:

A high kv motor can run more efficient on a low S count than a low kv motor on a higher S count. It depends.

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