TB recommended wheels 97mm and larger, but I guess that depends on how you ride and what you’re riding on.
I ran the eLofty DDs with Popoca 90s and had similar clearance, and my cans are already scratched up. So not sure you want to do that. I have the 110s now and I’m way more comfortable.
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Ready to rage
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So does anyone have video of these performing? Feedback? What do you guys think? 
I bought one as well, I’m curious to know how you can say with confidence that the Torqueboard DD is “way more reliable”? I hope you are right I just haven’t seen data out there.
Well, one company no longer exists. So there is that.
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I’m dying for someone to give us some real life feedback on these bad boys. More than anything “and pls don’t hate on me for asking the dumbest question ever” how does the torque feels compared to regular satellite motors with belt and pulleys!?
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was hoping to get it out today, but it’s supposed to snow where i live now. 
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What does snow mean!? That doesn’t happen here in California 
. We lucky mofos can pretty much ride all year long.
Looking forward for your comparison brother
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There’s no standardized test for peak or continuous wattage output and instead places make one big fantasy number possible in the Arctic
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So i should oly look at kv rating?
Kv, stator size will tell you more for a first screening. Then magnets, material ecc make the different but not always easy to get these parameters.
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Kv is the inverse of kt which tells torque per amp. A motor of any size and a lower kv will put out more torque per amp, so u could have an elephant sized motor with 90kv and a baseball size motor at 80kv and the smaller motor will put out more torque per amp. It will have greater electrical resistance so be more inefficient and possibly get so hot as to ruin the motor but for a short period it will put out more
Unless u put a lot of current in the big and small motor (both w 90kv and let’s say 100 amps) the smaller motor will magnetically saturate the iron of the stator and it won’t be able to convert all those amps to torque as it should so while kv and kt tell how much torque u get per amp, there’s THAT limitation and ALSO km, which reveals torque to heat produced generally in the windings
So peak torque decided by kt (kv) and how much iron available, and continuous decided by the km of the motor and what heat it’s capable of getting to before it destroys magnets or windings or bearings
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There is some way so calculate the amount of current need to saturate the copper? I know thst depends on different factors but maybe there is a general law.
The copper windings increase their magnetic field strength without any limitations other than the resistance of the wire and burning up. The electrical steel of the stator can support about 1.6 Tesla magnetic field strength before the relationship goes south and instead heat is increasingly produced. So a motor w no steel wouldn’t suffer from magnetic saturation but then it will also take a huge amount of current and much electrical resistance with many coils to get close to the field strength helped with the steel
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Thst was always what I was wondering abou it. I see all the commercial Mott with steel stator but aluminium motor can. Do you think they go for the aluminum choice only for price and weight difference?
Most of them have a steel flux ring behind the magnets in the rotor. If they don’t theyre wasting their magnets and not containing their field. Steel behind the magnet will greatly increase its pull force. For motors at the peak of performance they might use a carbon rotor and a hallbach array with the magnets. Less weight
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I see. Then only like 1mm thickness is enough you don’t need a thicker one to contain the field.
Most of the outrunner motor are open front and back. True thst the magnetic filed is eccentric but I would aspect some loss.
The shape of the field varies from what part of magnet it’s coming from with the field really coming out of the magnet’s sides but a 1mm thick mild steel ring doesn’t hold it. There’s simulations on that main magnet page. Forget the name. But I found it way off and a lot more gets out. It’s a huge loss and if for example the motor used a 3mm thick flux ring it will greatly increase the pull of the magnets and then u could compensate for that on the stator side with less coils and therefore less electrical resistance. It’s like getting a 250kv motor, with few coils and lower electrical resistance, and pressing on a 2mm steel sleeve and dropping it to 190kv.
All these thin steel back irons we see with out runners are maybe good for a plane saving weight but for a motor on a board the thicker the better. Especially a DD rolling along the road for protection
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Makes sense. Well I don’t think most of the motors are more than 1mm steel. At least not the one I have. Good that I used 3mm mild steel. A pain to make it but seems worth it. Thanks for the explanation. Always super nice talk with you.
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