First build (my head hurts) - seismic grousdswell - dual 6355 190kv - dual vesc 6 - 10s4p - caliber trucks

ESK8 Builds
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Hi guys - this forum is awesome. I got a boosted board about 6 months ago and still kind of can’t believe these things exist. I’m in the process of building my first custom board now. Here’s what I’ve got so far:

-Seismic Groundswell Board (https://seismicskate.com/product/groundswell-34-5-x-9-25/) -6355 190 kv sensored motors (x2) (the waterproof ones from Maytech) -Caliber 50 trucks (natural silver color) -Abec 11 90mm Flywheels -1/2"risers (x2) -Vesc 6 from Trampa (x2) -Dual motor mount from LongHairedBoy -10s4p 18650 battery (not sure where to get this from yet) -Maytech remote -15:32 gearing ratio (not quite sure what belt width/length I am going to want/need yet) -Not sure about the battery enclosure yet either (maybe this one from Eskating.eu: https://eskating.eu/product/abs-enclosure-38x165x530mm/ because I like that there is a waterproof gasket around it) -Can bus wire to connect the VESCs -An adaptor to plug the remote receiver into the VESC -HM 10 bluetooth module so I can use this app on my apple watch when it comes out: http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/new-esk8-app-for-ios-and-android/37318 (SO COOL!!!) -Do I need to get a fuse?

That’s it I think…

My goal is to create a simple-looking, short(ish) cruiser that has roughly a 20 mile range and can go 30mph. The range of the boosted board is seriously limiting (I know that’s not news to anyone here…). I also want the ability to ride faster than traffic (speed limit is 25mph in Manhattan) because being tailgated by taxi cabs scares the crap out of me. On a motorcycle, the ability to quickly ride away from a less-than-ideal situation can be just as important as having reliable breaks. I think this idea carries over to riding electric skateboards in busy cities.

If possible, I’d like to mount my motors on the front side of the back trucks, but I think that the battery/VESCs might take up too much room and I’ll have to mount them under the kicktail. We’ll see.

I really don’t know much(anything) about batteries and am having trouble identifying a good one. I’ve read that 30Q cells are the best? I also am kind of unsure of how to determine the length (circumference) of the belts.

As I begin to put things together I’ll post pictures.

What do you guys think? I am (desperately) open to suggestions!

2 Likes
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Look up for battery building services here, also you can choose between a plastic and fiberglass custom made enclosures here for a reasonable price

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Every muscle hurts as soon as you start to use them, in compensation they become stronger.

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Okay will do - thanks

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I tried kydex and it was okay, but sizes larger than 1x1ft start to become expensive. I made an enclosure with it and it was okay (2pcs like boosted), but i have massive batteries, so I am going to use fiberglass mat. The fiberglass mat here in SF is cheap (Tap Plastics FTW), polyester resin and that stuff comes only in like quart sizes, but that means extra for later if you like the process. Overall, the price to make fiberglass enclosure is around $35 USD. I think it is the more fun route because I like the DIY, but enclosures like @psychotiller’s is also good but not diy

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-Do I need to get a fuse?

I was also thinking about a fuse for a while, but decided not to use it. I think that esk8 without a fuse is safer. People had accidents when fuse suddenly burned out at full speed.

Also I use XT90S plug instead of power button & antispark switch. So that I can completely power off all electronic parts. Also there is no chance to accidentally power off the board while riding (if a stone hits the power button or something like this).

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build looks like it will be great!

@barajabali can build you the battery @psychotiller makes sick enclosures fuse is not required but recommended (by me atleast) I highly recommend atleast using a fuse for charging.

1 Like
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Also I think it is better not to use any can bus wires, plug adapters, etc. The best way is to solder all wires directly to VESCs and the remote receiver.

My board was doing weird things (like suddenly braking or accelerating) when some of these plugs become loose from shaking, although I thought I did everything needed for them to stay in place. After I removed all plugs and soldered all wires, my board became bullet proof.

Another thing that happened to me was that after riding on some bumpy road, one of the driving wheels started to turn in the opposite direction. It was really weird to see. It happened because one of the banana plugs on the motor phase wires become loose. So make sure these banana plugs are really tight.

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I just use 5.5mm bullet connectors, never had one come loose. looking at chucking on some 8mm bullets to make them NEVER come loose

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Very similar setup (motors, battery, vesc) to what I have, I’m looking forward to seeing how it goes together.

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That’s interesting. A bullet proof board does sound nice… Unfortunately, I have absolutely no idea how to solder…maybe after my board is complete I’ll see if I can try

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Oh yeah - I think I’m going to need some bullet connectors as well right? My motors haven’t arrived yet but they’ll need bullet connectors to fit into the VESC I think

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yup. most vescs use 5.5mm bullets

let me put it thi way: soldering is as important to building as breathing is to humans

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agreed. i had a 4mm bullet pop out and fry my ollin VESC. since then i always solder my phase wires.

1 Like