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Yep. That and the lithium fire I am riding. 
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That’s correct however if you have a short or loose conexion the sparks would inmediately light up the fire on the foam, it won’t combust by temperature but because of sparks.
Being that said, I’m using this foam again on my latest build, just try to avoid the use of bullet connectors in power lines, use XT60 or XT90 instead
@Eboosted I also have some 5mm rubber - do you think this is a better option? It doesn’t compress nearly as much though
Im going away for a bit so have built it back up as far as I can go. Decided I will run the 97’s
Waiting for electronics and epoxy now. Will design the griptape whilst im away
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Yes, any rubber would be better, the force the screws have will seal the enclosure perfectly
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OK so managed to get some more work done on this today, decided to take @Eboosted advice and use the rubber gaskets so I have cracked on with that. Its not the neatest job I have ever done but it will do whilst I figure it all out.
I bought a harnes from UNIK to power both VESC’s but it is too long and wired incorectly!!!
Not the best solder joints I have ever seen and would of been a nasty bang had I plugged it into a battery as it had a red wire going to a + on one plug and a negative on the other… slow clap for UNIK!!! I have made it a lot shorter and soldered it as it should be
At least both Focbox fit in the enclosure (just) I hope with the cables in the top it won’t make it harder - the dual lock really adds height to the vesc’s… something else to think about
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Got some more done on this last night, stayed late at work and cracked on.
After debating the best way to get the wires out of the ESC enclosure I decided to drill a series of holes, I will have to find a way to seal these up neatly, perhaps silicone sealant on the inside?
I decided to take the plug off of the phase wires so I could route them through then reattach
Then Extend the phase wires as they are too short and for some reason have tiny connetors on them
This is my plan for routing the wires
These will be inside nylon braid sleeves and I have ordered some of those X shaped plates from @akhlut that will tidy/hide these wires nicely!
Also my BMS and cells are here (forgot to take a picture of the cells!) Thanks to @Acido for sorting the BMS group buy out.
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@BigBrit I wish I had seen this thread earlier. I can make you a custom cover to fully cover that drop through hole if you get me the dimensions.
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For sure. Ill need the overall length and width of the center channel as well as the distance from the front set of screws to the front arc of the cutout.
ill make you a proper drawing no sweat.
have you posted the X plates yet?
Yeah, yesterday. No biggie though. We’ll figure it out.
I snatched a couple of hours after work today to do a few things. Got the Bluetooth module in, shortened the phase wires and got some nylon braid on them. Also put the wires in the channels and a bit of silicone sealant right at both ends to stop the resin seeping through and I will put the resin in on Monday.
Next jobs are make a gasket and get the on/off switch and charge port on the battery enclosure the. part wire the BMS up and I am ready to go to my friends house to use the spot welder for the battery.
Can’t wait to get on this bloody thing, seems like forever since I have been on a board. The weather is crap at the moment anyways but I want to be ready for when it gets nice.
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those bushings suck for those trucks.
i used to use the exact same setup, hard nipples.
swapped out to insert barrels and it’s a huge improvement:
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Yeah I think you mentioned this to me before and its on my list to sort out. I can tell the trucks are too floppy even though they are tight.
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What duro do you recommend ? I have TB trucks too and I do not like them, they feel too lose and tightening them do not change a thing.
went with 89a front, 92a rear.
used to get wobbles all the time above 25mph with the stock bushings, virtually gone now.
still carvy but can’t take sharp turns at slow speeds. good enough compromise for me.
Gotcha. Thanks ! I’ll probably get a 2 of each to I can test it out.
@thisguyhere I have ordered some of those insert Bushings from the US and they are here 86A insert bushes
more progress too, I got the wires glassed in - as you can see I managed to burn through one of the wires unfortunately 
I have to do a bit more so hoping to cover it and re sand or just put some electrical tape over it before I grip.
Also started wiring up inside the battery enclosure
Firs a test fit of the 40 cells, unfortutunatley the switch is far too big so I have taken the back off and soldered directly onto the pins.
I have also removed the fuse from the antispark and bridged the gap - I will put this in line somewhere else. Don’t worry the BMS and Antispark will be heat wrapped
I have also received the grip tape and am just waiting for my second set of x plates from @akhlut as I gave him the wrong size 
once I have these and I have finished the resin I will get the top finished
And thats it, been very busy the last few weeks but I can sense the weather tuning and im itching to get out on this thing - hoping to do the last push in the next couple of weeks.
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sweet, the inserts make a huge difference.
you can play around with the road side bushing to dial it in, stiff or carvy, whatever your need is.
on my dual 6374 it’s 92a insert barrel bushing board side, 89a barrel road side. it’s stable at speed and compliant enough to be carvy low speed.
on my mono 34" it’s 89a insert barrel board side, 89a cone road side. since it’s not a very fast board don’t need as much support at speed but super carvy low speed without wobbling at speed.