standing straight they are quite tall, I have to bend mine a bit to fit the deck space/enclosure
I think its because there could be a pico speaker behind them, which wouldnt allow for them to be folded back
Furthermore, standing up they have some room to “breath” given that they have nothing to conduct their heat to even if they were folded down.
If youre feeling risky, i believe its safe to trim the top tabs down using something like a dremel but that is completely at your own risk
So jealous!!! Mine is still on the east coast somewhere.
Ohh shut up… I didn’t even get one. ,
Basic rx is in my enclosure and all is perfect
Remote feels damn solid and works fantastic!!
Only thing i could wished for is a small bizzer inside the remote that could work on the trigger as an option for bycycles infront of me as a warning.
That would be the cherry on top for me.
Really did good man with this first batch
High five for the effort dude
I have the cruise control on the trigger amd it works perfectly!
Warning vibrations work great too one thing i did not think of and this might be a good thing to think about.
I ride with left foot front
And i ride with remote in my left hand.
So my palm covers the screen.
Did not even think about it but maybe an ootion to think of in the next batch mate
@tricky-fpv Haha I am sorry… of course its a right hand version. Great that everything works. Give us feedback after a few rides what we can improve.
I also thought about a horn or something, but then we need another button for this… like a splitted trigger… maybe in the future.
@Surfer yes it is
@Jansen yes its just like that… go for a certain speed on the board and then hold the trigger at the throttle position as u want. The Trigger will lock the trigger position simulated at this point. If u break with the throttle or release the trigger, the cruise will cancel.
U just have to hook up your wiring like in the description manual. Set the Baudrate to 115200 in VESC and learn the new PPM signal like u did on your last remote.
@sofu yes the its just to safe a little bit of footprint from the PCB. U can cut way the top of the metal part from the fets so safe some height. They are rated for a million amps or something. They will not get warm anyway.
please before u put everything into place, try the lights and the breaks ect. outside of your board. Just to make sure there is no problem with heat from the step-down as someone before mentioned… I just use some of these LEDs Nichia NSDW570GS-K1 (5x)… its fucking awesome… just great to ride in the city. Of course nothing if u need a real front light. Maybe its better to go for 24v… Let me know your thoughts!
here are the risers I created… perfect for TB218 with huge wheels.
I got some PCBs left here, but it think its more clever to rework the PCB because of the size and features. I ll remove the buzzer (I guess I ll not use it) and add a third channel for a horn or whatever.
I also want to replace the huge mosfets at least for the break lights and set them to 800mA max. Its not necessary to use that huge mosfet for backlights.
What voltage are the LEDs supposed to be again?
In total unter 12V with series resistor.
I use this setup as headlight:
3xLED NSDW570GS = 10.2V with 70mA plus the series resistor of 25Ohm.
2xLED NSDW570GS = 6,8V with 70mA plus the seriöses restor of 75Ohm (two times 150Ohm in parallel)
Can I suggest two more things. 1. An odometer feature for your board and 2. A battery percentage or voltage for the battery in the remote. Thanks for all your hard work!
If u use the remote with an VESC, it will use the distance from the Vesc to recognise how far u traveled… or do u mean a odometer sensor like in phones?
Battery percentage is already implemented. On the “SPEED” page, the second value is the battery percentage from the board and on all pages is a long bar going from top to bottom to indicate the battery status.
I think he means battery percent for the remote itself, not the board.
Also just to clarify, you mean 12v is the max voltage for the led? Or do you mean anything below 12v?
Ah ok. Thanks
U have a 12V output on the two terminals on the Advanced PCB. U can connect here everything u want. If u have a LED with 12 volt, its just fine. But normally there are only LED with 3,4Volt or something and u have to put them in serials including a series resistor. Every motorbike break light for example will work. because they managed the LEDs already to fit to 12V.
Got it thanks for clarifying! So excited to put all this together in my Haya! oh is the remote compatible with the Unity? And is it possible to vibrate on fault and show an error code on the display at all?
Not at the moment… I had a unity here, but not long enough for checking the handling. But it shouldn’t not be that difficult. Lets see when I can implant this and send an update…
Yeah I meant battery level of the remote itself so you know when it’s almost out of charge. Also by odometer I mean something like a car has which shows the total number of miles the board has ever been driven.
r u gonna do a second batch anytime soon. if not, how did you make the pcb?
Manual has been updated with some links to some more through writeups.
If you dont understand something or would like more detail, let me know!