Buy FOCBOX Unity

FeatherRemote and SmartRemote (Files in post #577)

remote

#572

For now i restricted it to 10 boards. But in the future u can use more if u want :stuck_out_tongue:


#573

@StefanMe Any updates ?


#574

Ah sorry i Miss the Information…

I ok finish the remotes this we. They ll go out on Sunday


#575

Please keep us posted once you start to sell completes


#576

Yay!! im so excited to get mine :smiley:


#577

wait, u got one? ur not in the chat…


#578

Too bad I got late to this party :slight_smile:
Great stuff
Will love to get testing this babies
Should be a great match


#579

He got one remote from the guy who jumped out :slight_smile:


#580

Whoa Stefan is back, you busy making these remote, or work, or both? xD

Printed this one for fun, meet the Oreo Remote: :smiley:


That glitch on the front tho :frowning:


#581

Haha nice idea… did u manually changed the filament on the third layer? Good idea… have not done this since a few!

Nice print quality!

Working on the remote and normal work. Unfortunately I am sick… so everything is bit harder at the moment! But everything is going well!


#582

Just welder like two meters of black filament to a spool of white filament.
With one hand hold both filaments, with other hand use a lighter and melt both ends, then quickly join them.
When it’s still elastic you hold it straight until it cools down, then you use sharp wire cutters to trim the excess off and at the end you finish the joint clean with a knife.

One thing I have to figure out how to get the filament lengt for the first X layers so I don’t have to guess.
I had to guess here and as a result front has 3 layers of black and bottom 4 layers.

Thanks, but have to somehow make that stupid Cura slicer not poop random strings when traveling, it almost always destroys the look of the first layer.
Thought it might to do with poor retraction because of crappy bowden tube but when got better one(tighter one) it was getting clogged in the bowden near the heater.
Preferebly will have to get a printer with direct feed, no bowden tube(don’t remember how it was called).

Well then get well soon, I have many questions to bother you with and also looking forward to that PCB that doesn’t need adafruit module :stuck_out_tongue:


#583

This is because u don’t make retractions if u don’t go over open spaces. So u loose hot filament while traveling from the outline to the “inner outlines” from the OLED. Travel faster with a faster acceleration will help… OR u go for KLIPPER Firmware and activate the PRESSURE ADVANCED. This will keep the filament at the right place, doesn’t matter where the nozzle is traveling ect. U also have just 1mm retraction on poor Bowden tubes.

Why so complicated? Just pause the print where u want to change the color, exchange the filament, and resume the print… super easy. No fusing, no calculation…


#584

Will try to experiment with settings but not sure which option to change in Cura.
If I stop it, printer just freeze in the spot, doesn’t retract and some filament gets out and destroys the print also because it’s not moving it welds or even destroys the build plate.


#585

Cure is just a slicer… the Firmware on the Board in the printer makes the STOP/START/RESUME ect… I guess u are using MARLIN, so check here the PAUSE functions and specially the PAUSE MARCO.

Means, if u press PAUSE on the printer, the FIRMWARE will execute a macro after stopping the print… for example:

Small retract, Raise Z, move printing head to parking position. (These macros I have for KLIPPER, not for MARLIN… they should work there also…)

[gcode_macro pause]
gcode:
	 G90 // absolute
     G92 E0 // set extruder to 0
	 G1 E-1 F6000 // small retract
	 G91 // incremental
	 G1 Z0.2 F200 // move z a little bit
	 G90 // absolute 
	 G1 X260 Y220 F12000 // move to parking pos
	 
[gcode_macro resume]
gcode:
	 G91
	 G1 Z-0.2 F200
	 G90
	 G1 X260 Y220 F12000

[gcode_macro unloadFilament]
gcode:	 
	M109 S220
	G92 E0
	G1 E-220 F5000
	G1 E-755 F3000
	G92 E0
	M104 S0
	
[gcode_macro loadFilament]
gcode:	 
	M104 S230
	G92 E0
	G1 E40 F1000
	G1 E750 F6000
	M109 S230
	G92 E0
	G1 E50 F100
	G92 E0
	G4 P10000
	M104 S0

#586

I add it to the code when flashing the printer I guess, quite a bit of work especially with my ender 3 that doesn’t even have a bootloader on it.
Thanks!


#587

@Stefanme Can’t seem to locate the gerbers and firmware source - planning to build one of these and adapt case and fw for a colour oled screen (will happily share changes)… could you please provide updated links as only see the STLs? Cheers


#588

There is no plan go open source yet. maybe in a while. I ll contact u per dm.


#589

FeatherRemote goes OpenSource

Source Code:
FeatherRemote SourceCode

PCBs:
FeatherRemote PCBs

BOM:
FeatherRemote BOM

I talked to some developers in the last days and came to the conclusion, that it would be great to make it open source.

I am not a professional programmer and here are some awesome guys who can bring this remote to the next level with nicer menus ect.

U need to be able to handle SMD soldering and 3d-printing.

Have fun


#590

What’s the status on the remotes ?


#591

They are 95%done. Just have to reprint some triggers, then they go out.