Yes. It reads again that the firmware is 2.18, so the flash isn’t happening.
Did you order that VESC in China? The bootloader is missing. You need to get a StLink to flash it to the VESC. Just search a bit in this forum for more information.
No, I doubt it’s a knockoff. It’s just more than likely been sitting in a box for two years. Thanks for the help.
In my Dropbox link i added a hex file at BLDC-TOOl and Firmware\oldVersions which is called BootloaderAndFirmware2_18.hex You can upload this via the stlink. It includes the original 2.18 firmware and the bootloader for 4.10, 4.11 and 4.12 VESCs. This is not my modified firmware. But afterwards you should be able to flash the VESC to my firmware mod.
I’ve flashed the device, and now the modified BDLC_Tool is unable to locate the VESC. Not encouraging. I should be able to reflash with the STLink. I’ll try again.
Edit: The VESC blinks three times blue/red, and then settles to blue. I’ve tried flashing twice now.
Edit 2: I simply flashed 2.54 with my STLink setup, and now it’s working. Thanks again for all your help!
This is so awesome @Ackmaniac, can’t wait to test it! 
I just have problems with my vescs due to weird mosfet temperature real time data.
Both vescs weaving between -70 and -75 degrees!! That’s too cold 
Any idea what’s wrong with my vescs?
Seems that the resistors that are used to detect the temperature have issues. Think @Blasto can help you with that. But if tue temperature increases the Same amount like the real temperature increases then you can Set the temperature cutoff with a offset. But if both have the Same issue then it is very likely that the manufacturer used wrong resistors also at other places
What i did right now is i took my heatgun and heatened up the whole vesc to 60 degrees. No increase of temperature at all in the real time data! So i think the temp sensor is broke. I bought them last summer from scramboards, think i should contact them.
Not sure if bug or if I am missing something: I set up a FOCBOX on the bench and adjusted the GT2B limits. Then, in watt mode with reverse, I wanted to test the change of direction. I don’t want the board to inverse the speed directly but only brake until stopped and then wait before allowing the change in direction (= that is how my Car ESC does it as well). So I activated “Enable maximum ERPM for direction switch”. This works when going forward and then brake. The motor will brake until stop and only when I release the throttle I am able to reverse. However when going backwards and pulling the throttle, instead of gradually becoming slower and stop, the motor goes into forward direction super fast without resting first. Is that intended behavior @Ackmaniac ?
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Yes that behavior is how it should work. Because when you start on a hill while you roll a bit backwards you don’t want to brake first.
I think most of us push off first. Seems like it would fry something going from reverse to forward so quickly
But I thought that is what the erpm limit is for. When being slow I don’t mind it going directly into forward but if you are going fast it should also require to brake first. Who is going down a hill so fast and wants to go directly into forward? The wheels would just start slipping or the motor cogging no?
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And the ERPM limit works like that but only in one direction. Normally you don’t go fast backwards. And if you do you brake gently. So this mode is mainly for going forward with the possibility to go backwards if you need it. But for forward it feels like the normal mode without reverse.
I don’t understand why there should be a difference between forward and backwards regarding that limit. How do I brake gently? When going backwards I have to pull the trigger and that will cause the motor to also go directly into forward. Or is that only an issue on the bench?
That’s exactly how it is while riding and is such a hassle going in reverse knowing it’s going to shoot from under you if you hold brake which is suddenly forward
@Ackmaniac reading @Titoxd10001 post on the issue I feel the limit should really be applied for both forward and backwards.
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It doesn’t shoot. If you accelerate gently it will brake gently and then smoothly start to accelerate. Only when you make a hard brake (acceleration at the trigger) it will start to spin in the opposite direction. I wanted to add the reverse to be able to go smoothly backwards and not to use it as the normal riding direction.
And if the limit would exist in both directions you have the issue that when you roll a bit backwards on a hill and want to accelerate that you have to pull the trigger 2 times to accelerate.
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Im exaggerating a little but I’m trying to say it doesn’t feel predictable when switching directions so I mostly just coast to a stop when I’m nearing slow speed. If we had the option to double tap to go forward that would be cool but maybe a solution would be if there was a slight delay from going reverse to foward
That would make it much more unpredictable. Because you don’t know when it starts. If it doesn’t feel predictable then i guess you have huge differences between the motor max value and the motor min value.